swrbansheeboy

ever heard the saying "a picture is worth a thousand words"? this is one of those instances..

call me crazy but if you can pull all three bolts from the stator plate without pulling the flywheel then re-install them after splitting your cases then A. be my guest. B. your houdini my friend. never realy thought of it till now because i've always pulled the flywheel to get the stator off but i would think that if you left the flywheel on you would either not be able to access the stator bolts (thats my guess) or that you could manage to get the bolts out but they would get stuck inside the flywheel because it's magnetized and once you split the cases and retrieved the bolts you couldnt get them re-installed once the cases were back together...i hope you can prove me wrong but i think your better off just pulling the flywheel.

usualy dune bikes run a 20 inch tire with a 10 inch rim. drag bikes usualy run a 22 inch tire with an 8 inch rim so it balloons like a drag tire when your hard on the throttle. bigger dune bikes can get away with running a 22 inch tire which will get you more clearance at the rear sprocket because they have the power to turn them. basicly the more power you have will dictate what size tire/rim combo you run. usualy you start with 20/10/10's and work your way up on number of paddles then goto bigger tires then smaller rims...

so it's 60 over and ported, must be fast... it still has the stock rear brake...

you can always grab a piece of scrap steel and drill and tap it to make sure it works before you commit yourself on the stuff that matters...

backward slides will make your bike not want to start without holding the throttle open. doesnt sound like thats your problem from what you've said. i'd start by swapping plug wires from left to right and see if your problem switches sides. if so i think i'd be looking at a new set of plug wire ends and wires mainly because there affordable and it's a good idea to replace em every 5 years or so anyway. make sure all your grounds and the connections at the coil are clean with good contact. if it stays on the left cylinder then i'd be doing a compression test to see where your at. check that stuff and let us know what you found out...

well since the gear couples it to the end of the crankshaft then it shouldnt spin unless the crank is spinning. by any chance did you forget to put the pin in that keeps the drive gear from spinning on the impeller shaft? if it's spinning without turning the crank i'd say theres a problem... http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/partimage.gifx?d=12622,2,0

never seen a kit to do it but like snop said you can try looking up a local shop that does Hydraulics and take the distribution block to them and see if they can make a set of lines that will connect to the block and the callipers. take your soft lines with you so they can match the length.

i agree, read up and find out a set up that sounds like it is up you alley so you can direct your questions twords people here that have knowledge about your desired set up. and as far as reliability goes most of the time it's not realy a question of un-reliable engines, it's more of an un-reliable mechanic situation. for every one person with a reliable set up there is another person who can f-up a wet dream and will manage to destroy it. human nature and human error play a huge part in why certain combinations dont work so asking for a reliable combination is realy just asking for everyone's opinions with what they've gotten lucky with or on the other hand if someone says that a certain set up doesnt work you have no real way of knowing if it realy doesnt work or if this guy is just a mechanical failure which is one more reason to read on here. good luck in your search, i'm curious to see what you come up with :smile:

i know that you know this already but a leakdown test will tell you where your fuel leak is coming from and may even show you your head gasket leak if the gasket is blown on both the inner and outer sides. in theory if the head gasket is only blow on the inner edge when you pump the motor up the air could escape to the coolant system and it should hold it since the radiator caps rated at 8 lbs ( correct me ) but thats if the test is done in the bike. as i've never done a leak down in the bike with the coolant system connected i can only speculate how you could get a false reading. either way, it sounds like you have a base gasket leak or maybe a base stud isnt sealing ( i had a motor that did this and i ended up pulling the base nut and gushing yamabond around the stud, after 2 years the motor still runs hard with no leaks) but i'd do a leakdown and see what i came up with since i cant see any reason to have fuel coming from the front of the motor unless it's overfueling and leaking from the pipe flange on the head and i know your smart enough to know if thats the issue... pull the motor and leak it down, fix the base gasket problem then leak it down again. if it passes after all of that then run it, if it's still building pressure then maybe the mating surface on the head is jacked up and needs to be trued. unless it's got o-rings and then maybe one got out of place on install. i know you know your shit but sometimes you cant see the forest for the tree's... i know i have gotten blind to a project like when i called my buddie to ask his oppinion about why my bike was running rich on one side and he said "did you turn the choke off??"....

you can try clamping a pair of vice grips on the bolt head as tight as you can then pound on the grips to see if it will come out but it sounds like you might need to pull the pipe. i've actualy had to pry the tab's out and use a sawzall to cut the bolt's out of an upper a-arm before... hope it's not that far gone... good luck :thumbsup:

you can always get some aftermarket reeds to go on your stock cages. boyesen makes reeds for stock cages...

i have ran starting from the day i got my bike to the day i tore the engine down... blenz-all, yamalube, dumonde tech, golden spectro, h-2 and finaly klotz. i have ran all of these in my engine at 32-1 with no problems so i say pick a decent oil and run with it. as blowit said never mix oils, always drain your tank and carbs when switching and just get everything jetted properly. it took 6 years before i had to tear my motor down and it wasnt because of a top end, it still had the same compression as the day i bought the bike. a trans shaft fubarred on me so i had to take it down incase your wondering if it was oil related..

you know, bay is one of the major sponsors on our site and whenever i'm down south and need anything i go to bay to get it. and you are correct, ron and mike are stand up guys who go the extra mile to take care of you. and the point wasnt to make anyone sound like a money hungry prick but a shop is in buisiness to make money so why would any shop tell you to buy your parts online somewhere else? it's just not smart buisiness. not saying theres anything wrong with a shop trying to keep your money with them, just saying that i know several people who have been running g-force axles for a couple years with no problems...

check your float needles in the carbs to make sure there shutting off when they should. my tri-z does the same thing right now because it's over-fueling. 5 kicks and it's flooded and the only way to get it to start is to tow it and even then it takes 2-3 minuits to clean out. after it's warm you can kick start it but it is still a bitch to get going and if you let it sit long enough to cool down then it's pull start city again. sound's like it's either jetted realy rich or somethings jacked up with the jetting. i'd pull the carbs and give them a good cleaning and make sure the float needles are seating correctly. after that check your compression then leakdown yadda yadda...

lmao, now thats funny....

imagine a shop telling you the cheeper axle had problems to upsell you on another product with a higher profit margin. my buddy has been running a g-force on his 80+ hp cub bike for over 2 years now with no problems. we have a lonstar axcaliber on one of our 350 bikes with no problems except that the chrome rusted out within 6 month's of installation. i have never ran a durablue so i cant say anything about them but for my money the next axle i get will be a g-force...

ok, i'm on the hook now... exactly how do you plan on rebuilding your spark plug? most of us just drop the $4 for new ones. how much are spark plug's in your neck of the wood's to make you wanna rebuild them?

ive always wanted to try these but all i ride is sand so haulers are my poison... http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...odFamilyId=6048

where are you located? elevation has alot to do with jetting. and pilot jets for mikuni carbs ( i'm assuming mikuni since your mains are 270's) go in 2.5's so you either have 27.5's or 30's... in oregon at sea level we run our t-5 bikes that have clamp on air filters with 310 mains/ 30 pilots and middle clip on the needles baseline then tune from there but that setup is usualy pretty dialed... your reed's might lean you out a bit but better to start rich. i didnt notice what kind of air filter/filters your running. that plays a big part also...

an impact driver works great unless you've stripped the bolt's out. if there stripped use a die grinder or a dremmel with a cutting wheel to cut a slot in the bolt head then use the standard bit to remove them...those bolts that hold the rotors on are a whore, steel in aluminum usualy sucks anyway but then they put that locktite crap on em...good luck

if it's not puking oil then dont sweat it. about 1 in every 10 banshee's you see will have the tab snapped off above the front sprocket from chucking a chain...kind of par for the course if your not running a case saver...

after everything is removed/disconnected/unplugged and unscrewed (make sure the dampener rods under the engine are unbolted) wrap your frame in several layers of newspaper/rubber hose or anything that will keep you from gouging the crap out of it with a little electrical tape unless your frame is hammered and you dont care. next pull both the front and rear bolts from the motor mounts. now reach down through the frame where your tank sits (you did pull your tank didnt you?) and lift upward and forward on the engine, once it is out of the motor mounts you will want to pivot it forward dropping the front and raising the rear so the plugs will clear the frame ( you can bust the tops off an old set of plugs and thread them in to make it easier) once you get the right angle turn the engine 90 degrees and rest on the frame unless you have help then resituate your hands and remove from the bike...more than likley you will get antifreeze on your feet so dont wear good shoes for this...

i've used yamabond on the rubber plugs. use your hands and some patience on the pistons...

it's possible that that o-ring could be a source of coolant getting into your case but in this instance i think everyone is correct about the impeller shaft seal being the cause. as for the output shaft seal, if it were my bike i would buy a new seal and clean the crap out of the opening where the seal goes. grease the hell out of the seal and the opening and see if you can carefully work the seal back in. make sure you take the collar off the output shaft so your not fighting it and i think it's entirely possible if your realy carefull you can get it in without splitting the cases. the rib on the seal is rubber and it's on the wet side so it doesnt need any sealant so the most you'll be out even if it doesnt work is the cost of the seal but if your lucky enough to weasle it in and it doesnt leak when your done you saved yourself alot of time. if your confident that the rest of your seals are good (besides the impeller shaft seal) i'd give it a shot but thats just me...worst thing that cann happen is either the seal wont go in or it will but leaks so your back where you started having to split the cases... also, if you end up splitting the cases i would take a second and check the rear crankcase vent and verify that it isnt plugged. i'm wondering how you built up enough pressure in your case to blow out the output shaft seal if the case vent was open...just another idea...