swrbansheeboy

mike and chris do great work so i'm sure your bike will run fine, i also think that your pissing away your money running straight 114 fuel. you shouldnt need that much octain with your set up. if i were you i wouldnt sweat the bet but i'd still stop by the atm and get a crisp benjy in your pocket. just cause your bikes capable doesnt mean you wont miss a shift or wheelie out of the hole and have to let off the gas while he walks on you. nobody like's a shit talker who cant pay up when he gets beat regardless if it's a fluke or not...

i am so laughing my ass off right now... turbo, if you can show me a factory manual that recomends taking a grinder to your clutch plates then i will be right with you but untill then i say your just creating a weak point for something bad to happen. have heard of guys ruffing up the steels in the clutch pack to try and get extra grip ( works great for about 5 minuits) but never grinding reliefs in them. i'd love to see a tech article about this topic. the lerching forward thing is a pretty common occurance with banshees and is usualy due to excessive wear on the fingers of the clutch basket not allowing the fiber's to release when the clutch is engaged but even with a brand new bike it can still occure just because the fluid works it's way out of the pack and causes the plates to hold together untill the clutch gets cycled a bit. if the problem only happens when the bike is cold then i wouldnt worry about it. if it's happening even when the bike is warmed up then i would be looking at the fingers on the clutch basket. all of my shee's have done this at one time or the other. unless it's directly affecting the preformance of the bike then i would just deal with it. just my .02...

have you tried bleeding them?

dyno numbers are only a tool for tuning in my experiance and have no reflection on real world output. you can have a bike that puts out 100 horse on the dyno and have it get walked on in the idiot holes by a bike that makes 35 on the dyno. my experiance with 2 into one carbs is they make more low end grunt than a dual set up but get walked on drag racing so it just depends on what kind of riding you do. if you trail ride and hang in the tree shots then a 2-1 is a good option but if all you do is drag then you need more money...lmao

they are your transfer ports and yes you can knife edge the bottom of them where the cylinder bolts to the case and work over the upper portion but you need to have the propper tools for doing the job. if you dont own a good set of port tools or own a set but have no experiance with them then it's best that you let someone who knows how to do the job do it. i have always had the desire to port my own stuff but the fear of hammering a set of jugs has always led me to the door of my engine builder...good luck with your porting, hopefully it works out for you because every good port guy started out exactly where your at right now! i just wish i had the balls and cash to do what your doing...lol

you can try a new rad cap or one you know works from another bike...

yea, your gonna need a new one. be carefull when shopping for a used crank cause you might just buy someone elses garbage. make sure you can check it out before you lay down the cash. e-bay deals that look too good usualy are type of shit. just be carefull...

if your positive you spit a lower bearing on the crank then youll only know how it looks by splitting the case pressing apart the crank and looking at the pin. i'd say if it is toast then why bother getting it pulled apart and slapping a new lower bearing in it when you can pick up a welded stocker with all new bearings for $325-$375... is there play in the rod? when you spin the crank can you feel it grinding? look's like it got hot but without seeing it in person i cant tell how bad you fried it...from the pics you may as well just yard it out and use it as a core on a new one...

now tell us how you realy feel....

good luck brotha :thumbsup: you said that you whacked the arm and got it to break loose so the rod may spin on ya while your drilling but i hope it works out for you. if it dont work and you need any info on splitting the cases im all ears. i have two engines split down at the shop right now so i can get pics of just about anything you want, getting them hosted is another story..lol

i have read that depending on what side of your reed cage you install the spacers you can get more top end or more low end. i guess more pre reed fuel mixture would be considered more top end or more crank case volume that would be considered more bottom end in my way of thinking but i never noticed any difference when i put them on my twin carb bike. in theory a single larger carb would be better cause like you said, only one piston pulls at a time but in practice for some reason the dual carb bikes seem to have more top end than the singles. i know the single set up seems to have way better low end but why i have know idea. maybe it has to do with the extra capacity between the carb and reed cages since the dual setup has basicly half the volume of the single carb. maybe turbulance has something to do with it since the fuel mixture has so much area to flow into v.s. a dual where it's a straight shot into the reed cage. i'm sure someone smarter than me on here can give you a good explanation...

i'd say that with a 4 degree timing advance you should be running at least 92 octain fuel. i think even yamaha says to run 92 stock. the 89 might be a major reason your overheating... as Snopczynski said 650 degree paint realy wont cut it on a head pipe. i have some nasty ceramic 850+ paint on my stingers and it's bubbled from the heat...i'd also be looking into that high idle, has it always idled high or did it just start recently? i'd for sure do a leak down...

if you want an extra piece of bling to polish then got one but it wont make any power gains. just takes up extra space and looks pretty when there polished up...

yup, any stock replacement will be a non-servicable ball joint. most aftermarket arms come with replaceable joints now, i will have to take a look at the lonestar d's on our one bike to see if there servicable...

yea, stay with what you got unless you have to bore it. never know when you might need the clearance later if you smoke it in a major way... being a cub it should have a nicasil lining so you can usualy just wipe the bore's down with some muratic acid and your good to go again...

did you let the paint cure out or just paint it and fire it? how's your jetting? have you done a leakdown test yet? is your choke tube still intact?what fuel are you running? is your engine detonating? running hot is usualy a sign of lean jetting or an air leak but if your timing is advanced it could be from not running fuel without enough octain...

where are you located? that will make all the difference in the world on who replys. i have a set of paddles setting outside my shop that have a chunk or two out of them that you could have if you came and got them but there at the shop in good ol boring oregon....

yea, if your riding a 4x4 utility quad and need something durable then go with steel but if your riding a sport bike and trying to make power then go doug blues... there not durable at all but they dont wiegh jack. there the favored wheel amongs't the sand crowd cause there light and cheep and if you pay attention they will last you many years. plus if you bang em on something chances are you can pound em back in shape with a rubber mallet. you cant do that with a set of .190 rims cause they will usualy crack....

5 stars to you my friend cause i was thinking the exact same thing... :thumbsup: either way you still should have the washer between the sprocket and the nut so it wont fall off if it get's loose...

i believe that the g-force have to rings... on goes in a groove on the right side and the brake hub slips over it and locks it in place keeping it from coming off and one goes on the left side after you slide the axle nut on then "unscrew" the axle nut to expand it against the clip to tighten everything up and keep the clip in place...but it's been about a year since i installed a g-force so dont quote me...

where are you located? you may have someone right in your own backyard...i take all my stuff to twister... http://webforce.nwrain.net/founder/twistercrankshaft/

yea, if you did it up good ( sounds like you did ) then the end of the rod and the clutch arm probably melted enough that the end of the rod wont pull back through the tranny shaft and the arm has a bunch of the metal from the rod welded to it so if you start reefing on it to get it out it will just gouge up the bore in the case that it slips down into. even if you do manage to get the arm out without damaging the bore it's still a touchy operation getting into the end of the rod to work it down enough so it will slide back out the trans shaft. it can be done but if you dont have the patience to take alot of time and do it right you may as well just crack the cases so you can pull the rod out the other side and get into the arm from the inside of the case...without actualy seeing it and feeling how bad it's stuck in there it's hard to say how far to press your luck with it...

slip, the only bearings that are pressed are the crank...

oh, and for the cpi's... imo (and mine alone) i dont think there a good trail pipe. t-5's are a pretty good all around pipe but if most of your riding is trails where you need a lot of bottom end i would recomend a set of paul turners and a 2 into one carb setup. cpi's are usualy a top end pipe and you will end up feathering the clutch to keep your bike up on the pipe ready to launch into the next turn... just my experiance. others may disagree...

change your air box out and see how it runs, it might end up being rich...if so just jet down, as you know rich and fouled plugs is better than lean and blown up.... as for the timing advance it shouldnt affect your jetting or fuel mixture but you might have to step up the octain of your fuel if you start having detonation. as for the reeds i have never ran the v3's but have read alot of peoples dealings with them and most have said no changes or that they had to go leaner on there jetting so you should be safe going back to a box and v3's then leaning out your jetting to match....