swrbansheeboy

well 22 divided by 20 is 1.1 14 x 1.1 is 15.4 41 divided by 1.1 is 37.27 so you either need to go to a 15-16 tooth front sprocket or a 37-38 tooth rear to get close if your only planning to buy one gear. you can always do a 15-40 combo and get even closer. without actualy measuring the roll out of your tires and crunching more numbers to fine tune it thats a good start. i'm assuming your riding on somewhat flat ground since your willing to lose the height of the tire?

you can switch your carbs for testing, you just have to run a longer tube to hook the choke tube ports together...

to check your crank seals you need to do a leak down test, i'm sure there is a post on here that shows the proper way to do one. basicly you pull both carbs, cap one side of the intake, put a low pressure guage in the other side of the intake, cap off the exhaust, then pump the engine up with air pressure (no more than 5-6 lbs, more and you can damage the seals) i usualy do 6 lbs for 6 minuits, if the engine holds the pressure then your seals are fine. have you checked your reeds out yet? it sounds like your getting fuel by all the crap coming out of the pipe. one thing you can do (but it's kind of a pain in the ass) is swap your carbs left to right. you will need to cut a long chunk of hose to act as your choke crossover tube and pop your fuel line off and re-install it again but from what your describing it would be worth it before you pull your reed cages (if you havent already) if you have good compression and swapping the plug wires didnt make your problem jump cylinders then try the carb swap, if your problem still doesnt change cylinders then look at your reeds through the intakes. if they appear to be fine then do a leakdown test. just remember that the engine has to be fully assembled minus carbs and pipes to do one so dont pull your intakes unless you have to or have done the leakdown and it held pressure... you can also pull the pipe off the dead cylinder and see if it's full of fuel, usualy if you have a needle and seat problem in a carb it's either frozen shut not allowing any fuel into the bowl or it's hanging open flooding the bowl. from what your saying it's puking crap out of the pipe so it realy doesnt sound like it's starving out... this will probably sound like i'm being a dick but have you actualy checked your compression or are you just relying on the fact that its a new top end so your assuming it's good? i've seen brand new top ends go dead from the first time there fired...

guess you could always just move to oregon? lol if it came from here it's probably jetted for sea level, google says phoenix is at 1117 ft. not much of an elevation change. if your running 320's for sea level then you should be running 310's at your elevation but that little of a change shouldnt make such a huge difference that it would be backfiring. maybe your timing is off? maybe the bike was jetted wrong to begin with. maybe the heat has something to do with it? heres a jetting faq.... http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

i've seen alot of home done timing plate mods, some good some not so good... if you take your time and have a stable hand you can make it work and the bottom line is that your flywheel and pickup cant tell the difference between a moded stock plate or a shiny aftermarket plate.... i guess the real question is how much of an advance are you trying to gain? if it's more than 3-4 degrees then you need to buy a new plate...

so what did you wind up doing with your engine?

if you mean broken crank as in broken in half do this, pull the stator cover off and put the bike in gear. kick it over and if the bike tries to lurch forward and the flywheel turns at the same time then chances are the crank is still intact. now if the top end leaned out as bad as it sounds it probably took out a lower rod bearing, pull the tank, plugs and stator cover. now rock the flywheel back and forth and observe how much the pistons move, if it smoked a rod bearing you will be able to see one piston(maybe two) that doesnt move when you rock the flywheel back and forth. it's usualy accompanied by a klunking sound from the bottom end where the rod is slapping around because it's spit the needle bearings...

my experiance with shift forks is that if they show any signs of wear then they should be replaced. usualy you find that if they show signs of wear it's usualy uneven because they are getting sloppy where they run on the rods. basicly if they look pristine with no signs of wear then dont bother replacing them. if they do show signs of wear then you need to look closely to figure out exactly whats wrong with them... if the tips still look silver but have polished spots that are higher one one side than the other then the forks are wobbeling back and forth on the rods. if the tips look discolored (any color than silver) then they need replaced and you should look at the gears they ride in for wear also....

have you checked your compression latley?

i agree, br8's or b8's should be the plug your running. as for the case oil, there are a hundred different opinions on this. i run redline shockproof but have ran bel ray, dumonde tech, atf and even hyster hydroilic fluid with no problems. it realy doesnt matter what oil you choose to run because there will always be someone on here to tell you why you shouldnt be running it and you should be running "brand x" oil because its so much better...lol

while your into the tranny you want to inspect all the dogs on the gears for signs of wear (tabs that lock into each other), the shift forks ( for signs of scuffing of discoloration of the forks as well as the gears where the forks ride and the shafts that the forks ride on) and remove all the gears so you can inspect the shafts for ridges (after many hours the shafts in the tranny can develop ridges keeping the gears from sliding back and forth correctly) basicly your looking for any signs of wear that might cause a gear to slip out or anything that might cause a gear to keep from engaging...

sounds like you leaned it out and siezed the top end but hey, blaster says your plugs are great so that couldnt be what happend... pull the head and i'd bet you find a piston that looks very grey and melted on the exhaust side if not both of them.... and just because the bottles full doesnt mean the impellers still intact and eveythings flowing like it should be... if the bottles over full then i could have been puking the coolant back to the bottle because it was overheating...

i used to rattle the clutch hub on and tighten everything to feel but about 4 years ago i bought a good set of ft lbs. and inch lbs. torque wrenches so now i do everything by the book ( unless i'm at the dunes and i have to bang it out to get a bike going again) what i did was took a old set of burnt clutches and screwed one fiber to a steel so when it's put into place it holds the basket to the tranny shaft, then i pop a penny into the drive gears on the clutch basket and crank then torque away... just how i do it now, the rattle gun works too....

buy a manual, all your questions will be answered for $20 or less....

j, you speak as if you think i'm a lier. heres a little food for thought... lets imagine you have a set of cases without cylinders. now imagine you have to scrounge up a set of stock un-molested cylinders, whats that gonna run you? the first set i found on ebay were "buy it now" for $325. now get a price on a port job capable of pulling 80hp, not cheap. there usualy asking around $500 and there not even going to be guaranteed to do 80 and they all come with a light-switch throttle. now on the other hand you can get a set of cubs for $875 "Patriot Racing has developed several basic packages plus complete engine packages. $875 Cylinder only*, any bore, any stroke, plated ready to run." and with about $100 worth of touch up work be running 100hp. so where's the smart money? $825 on the conservitive side to get mabe 80 hp out of a stock set of jugs that will be pushed to there limits and never capable of much better than what there at without alot more cash being thrown at them? or a set of cubs that will do 80hp all day long without being touched, 100hp with a nice cleanup job? why build the hell out of a 350 just to do what a 454 does stock? as i said before, fwiw i'd much rather have the engine that s capable of doing major things in a straight line if i wanted it to but have chose to throttle it back (castrate it, neuter it...whatever...) with smaller pipes or whatever( cascades pulling around 68hp from there pt 2 into 1 bikes with no light-switch throttle) and still be able to uncork it and pull full 80-100hp numbers than coming up short with a stock cylinder bike that almost does the job but is about to fly apart trying it.... i've ridden a 80hp "drag" ported bike on t-5's and it sucks full on ass! you cant stay on the throttle enough... i've also ridden a 100hp cub "choked down" on t-5's and it's a hell of alot better than the 80hp drag cylinders... as i said, do your homework. find a stock cylinder bike and a cub bike in the same ballpark and ride them back to back.... imo if your shooting for 80hp numbers the cub is the best option dollar for dollar and preforms much more consistant than a stock set of cylinders ported to try and match a set of cubs...... seems to me if your trying to hit the 80hp mark your going to be spending alot of time f-ing the dog trying to get to 80 with a stock set when you can cut the chase and get there as soon as ups drops off a set of cubs..... dajogejr, once again... it's all about opinion and since you think yours is right then it must be. there is no " in my experiance this has worked so i dont understand why x is working for you" or "i have never tried the set up you've mentioned but have always had much success with "x" set up, it's what we've been running for the last "x" years and have had no problems with it..." dajogejr, i may be misreading your posts but everything from you comes off as "i'm billy bad-ass and i know everything so whatever you say thats not in line with what i say is wrong" or at least thats how i read it. i've never met you,talked to you or rode with you so maybe i'm missing something crucial to understanding how you are but from what i've seen on here your an over-opinionated asshole who thinks they know everything and anyone with a opinion thats different than yours is an idiot. i'm sure i'm wrong but hey, if it looks like an asshole and smells like an asshole....

to be totaly honest dirt, after i made the dyno post i realized that i should have added that if a dyno is being used to test and tune then it was the proper use v.s. what i was referancing about people using dyno numbers for bragging rights. i tried to edit the post but apparently this site only gives you about 2 minuits to edit so i just figured i'd let it ride. i dont like to edit anyway, if i f-ed up then i deserve to get called on it and you did. my bad. as for everyone having an opinion i agree. i just get agitated when i see someone post there opinion then it gets followed up by a bunch of bash posts. imo it makes those who view these threads with a different view of the majority posters reluctant to post there opinions for fear of being bashed as well. i think all the forums i visit are here to spread knowledge and ideas so those who have questions can get some insite or different views from what they have and once a thread turns negative then that poster will more than likely leave the thread. i am far from innocent when it comes to a thread taking a turn for the worse but most of the time many others have set the standard long before i jump on the sinking ship....

if i were to tear it down that far i would just clean the hell out of the inners and replace the outers. why take a chance on questionable bearings when you can drop $50 or so on new ones and feel better about it... i'd at least swap out the drive side bearing since it's the one that has the most load on it...

sorry but when the first thing you referance is amsoil, then your first link is to the amsoil website, then when i open the second link and the first poster has the amsoil logo as there avitar i lose intrest as i just assume it's a bunch of propaganda telling me that amsoil is the best oil on the planet. you wanna sell me on something show me some people i know that ran x brand oil and changed once they were converted to y brand oil.... thats why i run redline shockproof because i've actualy seen an engine that ran it then had the oil drained, then ran with no oil without chewing everything up...

and no, you just dont get it. he's saying he doesn't like the midrange loss from the big bore pipes and several people are trying to give him some options to bring his power band down and get some more useable mid range but you and the rest are telling him he has a drag ported cylinder so he's stupid for asking. as far as you guys are concerned there are no options and if he try's any of the options suggested he's a tard because he's only castrating his engine. nobody even bothered to ask what kind of riding he does, nobody ever asked if he was willing to loose overall hp to get some more mid range out of his set up. in fact, from what i saw nobody even said he needed to post more info untill like 5 pages in. everyone jumped on the bandwaggon of "unless your trying to make the max hp your engines capable of producing then your a douch" maybe he didnt care about max hp and just wanted some ideas about gaining more mid... it realy doesnt matter anymore anyway cause it's obvious he's not coming back to get any advice from this thread and i dont blame him.... if i posted a question only to have everyone tell me i was stupid for wanting to do something i wouldnt come back either...

thats the point! dyno's are supposed to be used to test and tune your set up and get it to run to the best of it's ability. but more often than not the dyno is used as a referance of how one persons bike is better than anothers or it's used to try and prove one individuals point. every time some ass is trying to show why his bike is gods gift or that the set up there claiming is better than whatever set up there saying sucks instantly the dyno sheets start getting splashed around as if there un-disputable proof and should be viewed as the gosphel! if your using a dyno to get your bike tuned then your using it for it's intended purpose. if your trying to hammer home a point your trying to make using a dyno sheet then it's nothing but a bullshit number because unless everyone on the net uses the same dyno with the same software with some sort of "industry standard" for set up peramiters then no comparison will be equal. it's all just a benchmark for whoevers bike on x dyno. toss that bike in your truck and take it to 5 shops and dyno it and you will get 5 different numbers so imo posting a dyno number is a moot point. you can say your bike pulled 100 hp@7000 rpm and i can say mine ran 110@7000. bottom line is unless we both ran our bikes on the same dyno at the same time theres no benchmark to compare the two against so imo, DYNO NUMBERS ARE BULLSHIT! and it realy doesnt matter, a bike can do 150 hp on a dyno all day long but if the rider is a douch he will get spanked all day by a guy on a 80 hp bike all day long. hence the whole "proof is in the pudding" comment. and all you guys from the right coast saying you've ridden sand so you can relate, where exactly have you ridden? silver lake? the 50 square yards of beach front sand your buddies dad has? i guess my problem with all you guy's is that your trying to tell us left coasters how it is based on your limited experiance on your local sand flats. i'm not telling you how to build a bike for the track, i'm not telling you how to build a bike for right coast trails but you guys are positive you know how we should be building our bikes out west even though you have no clue what we ride in. you can watch all the videos you want but until you bring your bike here and ride it's all just an opinion. the day i decide to build a bike to run in detroit/new york/kentucky or wherever back east on dirt i'll ask your opinion on a set up but untill you move out here and start building bikes to run on the dunes then all your comments are just opinions to me. none of you asses have made a post like "i have never ridden out west but from what i've experianced out here riding the sand we have i would reccomend blah blah blah.." you guys wouldnt do that because you guys know it all and are so fuckin smart you can tell people what they should be doing even though you have no practical knowledge of there riding area or what there bike does! who cares if you've never seen there bike run, you are so damn smart you can tell it runs like shit just by reading there reply. god damn, maybe i can bank a bunch of posts, make me a groovy pic for my sig, imply i'm a bike building god and get a bunch of followers then i can tell everyone how it is regardless if i actualy know or not. if your new to the site i can treat you like shit or just wait for one of my site buddies to start something then jump in to back them up. screw trying to be a calm intelligent poster who posts there opinion but stays neutral and lets it ride. i'll just tell everyone i know it all because i'm the shit and i've got a bunch of my cronies who think there the shit also to back me up... if you go back and look the original question was... dajogejr, your first post on this thread was less than informative to the topic. all you did was jump on the bash fest twords wiz by quoting his post then tearing into him. let me refresh your memory... i could be wrong but thats a great way for such a knowledgable/ stand up representitive of this site to conduct themselves. could have said what mattered... but as i said before, it's so much easier to take the low road and bash everyone because your so much smarter than everyone!!! yay! you like spaghetti!! yay!!!

me personaly ( since i work on all my shit) run a compression test and if it looked good i'd do a leak down test. if everything looked good i'd take the intake side apart and clean the hell out of it then run it. if you realy want to get technical you can pull the top end (make sure to do a leak down first to make sure all your seals are good) then use something to flush the cases (fill the crank area up with whatever you choose, i use diesel. roll the crank a bunch then dump it. repeat untill your satisfied..) then put the top end back together. i'd do a compression check first to see if you can salvage the rings and pistons if you choose to go this far. if you think about it by taking everyones advice and tearing it all the way down to inspect the crank do you realy think you will be able to tell if the crank bearings are bad after such a short occurance? imo, if your going to go as far as breaking the cases then have the outer crank bearings replaced. it's money well spent if your going that far. otherwise flush the cases and go with it. as i said, i'd clean up the intake and run that thing till it starts making funny noises... worst case scenario you have to tear it back down and do everything you are thinking about doing for the most part...

i will agree that a boost bottle does nothing at all for your preformance but i dont agree with the air leak theory.... they mount up in the stock location the same way the stock balance tube does so you still have the same 2 places to worry about as the stock set up... i've ran my boost bottle for 7 years now with no air leaks. no preformance gains but no air leaks also...

i run redline shockproof now but i used to run gear saver 80/85 weight, did me good for 5 years so i'd say your good to go!

your question was who's the best, i say rocky mountain. anything over $100 is free shipping and i dont think i've ever waited more than 3 days to recieve there products. cant find that many places....