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I hope it helped! I've been doing this for 35+ years & it's somewhat easy for me to do naturally. It's a different story when you try to explain it in written form to others. While I think we have mainly been talking about .500 sportsman/full tree. I'm well experienced in both the .400 & .500 pro light, leaving off top bulb .500 full tree with a delay box & still working on a blocked tree leaving off the last bulb.

Let's start with your 1st sentence in the main paragraph. So, a racer is cutting consistent shit/slow RTs or red lighting. I know I'm going to make changes to the race vehicle(s) set-up to change the RT! Now, for the second sentence. There's only one time a year I set up for a perfect RT. We have a 50K run for the money. A perfect package wins, we set-up for a .000 RT. The rest of racing against an opponent we don't shoot for perfect RT. Reaction times have a variance based on different factors. We try to keep that variance as tight as possible: Let's use a .010 RT variance for testing/qualifying. During racing if I set up for a perfect RT. The RTs are going to vary -.005 - .005, going red isn't going to work for my racing. Now, take that same .010 variance & set-up for a .005 RT medium; you theoretically get RTs in the .000 to .010 range. I do agree with staging shallow as possible to keep RTs & ETs the most consistent.

JSins, Wow, someone posted in the Drag Forum! I see you recently joined & the above post is your 1st. Thanks for contributing!

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