Loki

the theory behind it isn't too stupid but the hp claims are a bit out there I wouldn't expect any massive power gains maybe just a better throttle response or maybe some better fuel economy. But the part I don't get is the halfving of your pilot jet... doesn't quite make sense to me.

Hey I got one of those thunder products U.F.O fuel optimiser's today and it all installed well no problems, my question is to anyone who has used these on sleds or even on their shee's; is do you really halve your pilot jet. It says that with base jetting you go to a 12.5 or 15 jet due to what the part does, I understand the concept and all that but I can't see it needing to lean out the pilot jet that much. Any thoughts??

Cheers thats the sorta info I'm looking for, I got 320 and 300 mains with the kit so Ill chuck the 320's in and order a few pilots (27.5, 30 and 32.5). What ratio were you running in your setup?

Hey all I'm at the business end of my build and am almost ready to break her in. What I would like to know is what would be a good base start for jetting. My mods are: Std bore, no porting (rebuilt engine though - new crank and full strip down and clean) Ceramic coated combustion chambers and pistons. (running vertex pistons) FMF Gold series V-force 3 reeds No air box just dual k&n's Std carbs Dyan ignition (if your wondering after the run in will be dyno tuning) I'm in Australia so my height above sea level is somewhere between 5 and 10 meters depending on where i'm standing in my house. Temps at the moment are around the 20 deg Celsius with little humidity I got a dyna jet kit with my filters and have put the 340 mains in and the new needle, I read the jetting FAQ and have lowered my needle clip for the reeds. So I'm wondering if the mains will be ok and what pilot's I should run. Thanks for the help.

K I figured out the spacers and what not now I just need to find the size of the wave washer.. Anyone use a taper carrier I need to know the dim/s for the washer that they supply with it.

Yeh I gotta make some spacers for it, but that aint a problem. Another thing does anyone know the size of the wave washer that is used with the taper roller carriers?? I lost mine ::

Thanks man that does help a lot because that is exactly how mine looks cept mine is a taper carrier, well looks like that's how they're made... Spose I'll just have to make some spacers. Have you ever had any problems with using spacers and how long have you been running the carrier, because all my experience with things like that is for brakes and whatnot they need to be pretty solidly supported.. just want to know if spacers are good enough support.

Has anyone used those taper bearing carrier's you get off of ebay as I bought one and when I went to fit it, I realised that the rear caliper mount bracket was about 50 mm away from where it should be. Anyone know anything about these... or did I just waste my money on a dud product?

Alright the initial problem doesn't matter now as i have realised after trying to mount the rear brake caliper the mounting bracket on the carrier is about 50mm away from where it should be, has anyone bought one of these carriers before? I need to know if it was a stuff up on their behalf or if I've lost more mounting hardware.

Yo guys just wondering if anyone can do my a favor. I got one of those taper roller bearing carriers off of ebay and it came with a wave washer to put between the sprocket or brake hub and the carrier. Now the problem is my dad did a clean out of the garage and threw any empty boxes out, well he threw the box the carrier came in out and it had the washer in it. Can anyone tell me the dimensions of the washer as I need a new one. Thanks guys.

Don't know if it'll help you much unless you live in Brisbane, Australia but the shop's called Global Powder Coating. Damn good service and price... Everything and I mean everything on the bike blasted and coated for $300

Definitely oven bbaked as I had asked if they do IR and he said no. all he said was they sat down and worked out what was at risk and made sure that those parts were protected, the boots came out as good as they were when I took em in and as for how i can tell they don't feel any different and I can't see any melted plastic or and other substance in or around the joint. Only time will tell but I do have some faith in these guys after what I've seen and it was word of mouth from people at my work that got me onto them.

It's all good got a small cold chisel and a hammer onto it, made a nice notch then used a center punch to turn it came out pretty easily, gonna get replacement screws but with a hex head instead so I won't have this problem again.

Should've said it was the use of an impact driver that did it, got one and the other was a complete bitch just would not come about 8 hits later and it just splintered the cross pattern....

Hey guys I got all my frame and shit Pc'd this week and I told them just to sandblast the a-arms as I thought I'd just get them 2-pac'd. To my surprise when I went and picked everything up there were the a-arms all done. Supposedly one of the guys at the shop has been pci'n for a good decade or more and just had a good look at em and figured a way to oven bake them, dont know how exactly cuz he wuldn't tell me but they did it and it didn't ruin them. I'll up pics this weekend when I start puttin the frame back together.