swrbansheeboy

yea, i see nothing...

if you look at the bottom of your slides you will see that they have a windowed side, these are supposed to face the rear of the bike when installed properly. if the brass tabs are intact in the carb bodies then there are only two ways to install your slides, correctly (with the windows facing the rear of the bike) or incorrectly ( windows facing the engine). from the sounds of it you have them installed correctly... have you tried swapping your plug wires yet?

for some reason those look like they were designed to go on a yfz450 or something. and the way they secured the webbing is crap. regardless, if you do get those to bolt up i give them a season before they brake. they have no support besides the bolts holding them on, the stress put on them from the outer edges plus the leverage added to that will bust those aluminum mounts in no time flat. most good nerf bars have some sort of tubing that ties both sides together helping to relieve the stress on the mounting plates. those dont seem to have that so all the stress of you standing on them is put directly on those little aluminum plates... plus that front mount is 90 degrees out from what it should be, and with only 1 bolt in the front mount it looks as if the only mount that will be doing anything is the rear...

i just dug around in all my crap and found a bolt with a big ass head that fit into the retainer then welded a stripped out 1/2 inch socket onto it to make the tool. basicly what both these guys said. i've never measured it but if the 32 mm size is correct then you can also use a 1 1/4 inch as a substitution. also if the 32 is correct then if you have any old clutch hub nuts or drive gear nuts you could fab something out of one of those that should work since there both 32mm/1 1/4 inch nuts...

which bearing is it thats bad? if it's an outer bearing it should be a no brainer, pull it and install a new one. i dont remember hot rods cranks being welded from factory so if it hasnt been welded then you could swap an inner out also but you need to have someone do it thats knowlegable with banshee crank tolerances. as for milling the head, i've heard people say they have run 19cc domes on pump gas but i still run 50/50. i'd rather drop a few extra bucks on fuel than detonate one of my motors and cost me $300+... you can cc the head with water, just make sure your plugs are in tight... for my money cascade does an exchange, i wanna say $50 and your stock head for whatever spec you want. that way you know it's done right. i'm sure there are several other shops on here that do the same thing. better to leave it to somebody who does it on a regular basis rather than the guy who says he can "get er done" i always say...

you can also swap the plug wires to see if your problem jumps cylinders. if it does then it's from the plug cap up(electrical), if not then it's from the spark plug down(plugs,carbs,compression and whatnot)....

the coolant circulates from the port on the front of your clutch cover into the head/through the cylinders/ back out of the head/into the tube that goes through the case into the clutch cover and back into the water pump. the base gasket normaly just seals the bottom end from air leaks but it is possible that one of the rubber plugs on the bottom of your cylinders could be leaking as well as the base gasket causing coolant to be leaking into the crank case. it's possible but most likley it's your o-rings in the cool head.

here he says it has stock carbs that should be ditched, also if they need the tors removal then it has stock carbs. stock carbs are 26mm unless they have been bored out, if they have been bored than they are likley 27-27.5mm... once you get the bike let us know what the carbs say. if they say mikuni there more than likley stock or stock bored carbs, if they say kehin then they are aftermarket. the only way to truely figure out what size they are is to mic the intake side...

it has a bigger problem that the tors system and it doesnt have 28mm carbs. even if there taper bored the maximum they can be is 27.5 and even then they dont run like a true 28 does. not sure why it's surging, usualy if they run wide open they stay wide open. maybe a fuel delivery problem? maybe they did bore the carbs to 28 and it's leaking air by the slides?

you could have a clog in the t, also is your vent tube on the gas cap kinked? i had my bike fall off on the left cylinder one time and checked everything, after 15 minuits of troubleshooting it turned out that the vent tube on the cap was kinked under the plastic where i couldnt see it and it was vapor locking the tank so it wouldnt flow... just an idea... you can try swapping your fuel line left to right and see if it changes cylinders...

yea, what kind of riding are you doing? we run blues because there prone to getting bent dune riding and you can wail on them with a rubber mallet and beat them back into shape. the thicker rims have a greater tendancy to crack when you beat on them...

are you running an aftermarket clutch basket? i like loco am wondering what bolts your refering to.....

i agree with the floats either being out of adjustment or a bad float needle/seat.

i would do a leak down test with a guage and plugs. i've dont the carb cleaner test and didnt come up with anything but had it leak when i did the actual leak down test. it definatly sounds like you have a leak somewhere causing that cylider to heat up, if you lost the center electrode from the plug it sounds like it was running hot and started detonating. generaly if you are cracking the porcelain out of your plugs it's a detonation problem. so i'm confused now, you had the electrode break out of your right cylinder and replaced the plug and it ran fine but then you found the wear problem in your left cylinder or did you bust the plugs on both cylinders? it definatly sounds like a detonation problem but i'm wondering if it's only on one cylinder or both.

i usualy just buy something cheap, take it for a run so it gets through the gears and whatnot then check it to confirm it's not a milkshake anymore then drain and swap to my regular oil...

i think your getting ahead of yourself. as others have suggested pull your clutch cover and inspect your shift shaft, as max said you may have just sheared the adjuster off. if so you can replace it without pulling anything, it's a bitch but it's alot easier and quicker than pulling the clutch assembly. i've broken the tab on the end of the shift shaft in half before also. either way pull the cover, grab a flashlight and check it out before you start getting into pulling everything apart yet. you can tip the bike up on it's side too kepp from draining the oil but if you need to pull the shaft out you will need to drain it. otherwise all the oil will drain out of the hole where the shaft goes and usualy get all over your shoes. done that a time or two....lol

alot of the time the plastic drive gear will strip out on the back side where the pin goes through the impeller shaft on the back side of the gear. you might get away with just buying a gear if theres no plastic in the bearing and it still seams to spin freely. you can just pull the entire cover, pull the e-clip from the shaft and remove the plastic gear to check it. it's pretty easy and if your carefull it wont cost you a dime to check it out. if you pull the wp cover and the plate over the impeller then you have to buy a new gasket, granted it's only a $3 gasket but you still have to order it or drive to the shop to pick it up. i cant say that the impellar is your problem but if i were to check it out on my bike i would tip the bike up on the left side and pull the clutch cover, then pop the e-clip and pull the gear to check it out first because if it's stripped out of not it is still free and gives you a better idea of what your next step should be..

blaster... you keep asking questions about all sorts of stuff and when you dont get the answer you expected you keep running with what you think is right trying to justify why your ideas are correct, if you think everyone here is wrong then why are you on here trying to get advice? i guess if you already know your right then why bother asking the question in the first place? if you think your builders so smart then why are you on here trying to second guess him?

well considering that the hole is in the crankcase (the pics show it) he's probably better off not jb welding it up. that and he has a broken off rod (pics show it, apperantly nobody caught it) a scored set of cylinders that need at least a 20 grand over bore, cases busted above the drive sprocket, the end of the tranny shaft is stripped for the drive sprocket ( sprocket was welded on) clutch basket is jacked (has about an inch of play so the cushions are shot) inner clutch hub looks as if someone hit it with a hammer about a dozen times, and the kicker is that the gears in the tranny are so bad that half of them are worn off and the front shift fork got so hot it melted... so the hole in the case isnt such a big deal after all in comparison...

heres some food for thought... you said that you ditched the bottle and you had coolant coming out of the overflow tube. now is the problem that you now have coolant puking out of the overflow that you can see of that you need a coolant bottle installed so you cant see that you have coolant puking out of the overflow? to me all a coolant bottle does is mask the fact that your overheating the engine, if your heating up enough that your spitting coolant then you have some other problem and all the bottle is doing is hiding the problem.... to me basicly what your saying is "while i had my coolant bottle installed i couldnt tell that i was puking coolant from my radiator, but now that i removed it i can see that its blowing out all over the place. now i want to re-install my coolant bottle so i cant see the problem anymore..." check your jetting (i know, your builder said it's spot on. thats what builders do...) and check that your impelers working properly. maybe your radiator is plugged up?

try swaping wires and see if the problem jumps cylinders, if it does then try trimming the faulty wire back at the coil and the cap. that should take care of the problem since the coil fires both plugs at the same time. if the problem switches cylinders and the trimming doesnt correct the problem then you may need to buy a new plug wire or cap. if the problem doesnt swap cylinders then your probably looking at carburation or a compression problem... your sure the gap is correct on both the new plugs?

so are you going to continue running the 2 into one? if so then swap to a 35 pwk, if not then go to a pair of 28-30 pwk's... either way go to keihin. mikunis are great stock carbs but fall short compared to keihins...

i thought the cascade nuts were designed to work with the stock studs, sounds like you have the longer pro design studs? will the flanges on the cascades even seat into the top plate on the pro design head? i've never tried it...

if you jb weld the bottom end of an air tight case and it lets loose then it gets ground up and spit out the pipe, no harm no foul. i got to look at ocr's cases tonight and the hole is big enough you can push a pencil through to daylight, if you jb weld that and it lets loose instant boom. i dont think i'd be willing to take that chance. they could be tigged and leak checked to get them runable but for now he has much bigger issues....

good deal, at least it wasnt something serious...