swrbansheeboy

you can put just about anything on there as long as its hooked up. if you still have the long vent hose on your gas cap you can cut a 4" or so piece off the end of it and use that. as far as your fuel delivery problem have you tried disconnecting your fuel line at the t where it branches off to the two carbs and opening the petcock to make sure the fuel is flowing at a good rate? if you do this and it's not flowing very fast you may need to pull the petcock out of the tank and clean it...

you can call it magic, i'd call it a good set up. the whole reason for porting an engine is to move more air right? unless you have the right air filters/carbs and pipes then a port job isnt worth jack. most guys think if you get a port job and a set of cpi's and 34 mill carbs they have the hot set up when in reality they have a turd thats hard to tune and only runs on top of the pipe so yea, it may be small but it still beats alot of "bigger" bikes because the setup works well and puts the power to the ground.youll also notice i said "with the right rider" i can ride it but i have a buck-0-5 friend that makes it scream. the point i was trying to make is that a port job isnt the master solution to making your engine scream, theres alot more to it then a port job. regardless how bad ass your port work is your still limited to your final drive gears and hp numbers on a dyno dont mean shit in the real world. i know of a shee that puts down 73 horse at the wheels and cant get out of a tree hole that a blaster walks out of. people can talk "portwork this and stroker that" but what it all comes down to is getting all the peices to work correctly so yea it does make sense if a stock gt beats a supercharged cobra if the cobra wasnt dialed in right and the stock gt had it's shit together. but hey, i ride the bus and have never even sat on a quad so what do i know. i guess it just comes down to opinion and you just dont agree with mine so tell me guru, what's the hot set up?

you can buzz the nut off with an impact by holding the flywheel with your hand then remove the flywheel with the puller ( i assume it's the correct puller, never use a jawed type puller or anything other then the yamha style puller designed for the job or you'll be buying a new flywheel) when you go to install it make sure the key is lined up and doesnt fall out. use a torque wrench and a flywheel holder tool, if you dont have a holder you can use the old standby and take your clutch cover off and put a penny between the drive gear on the crank and the gear on the clutch basket to bind it up without damaging the gears...

take it for what it's worth and thats nothing but i wouldnt sweat that crack at all. if it were on the crank case area then i'd scrap em cause it can leak and cause the motor to run lean but being's it's on the tranny side the most it can do it drip a little oil out. you said you put silicone on it and got it to stop so just keep an eye on your oil level and you should be good to go. if you dont trust them and are gonna scrap em let me know and i'll pay for you to ship them to me because i'd run them all day every day :thumbsup:

if you think about how tight your case halves fit together you will see that you only need to put sealant on one half of the cases.also anything in the bottom end that needs to be sealed tight has a rubber seal so no need to coat the seals or bearings. grab a tube of rtv sealant and steal the applicator tip to put on your tube of yamabond or whatever sealant you choose to use and put a decent bead of sealant around the bottom case half then drop the top on. just make sure the tabs on your crank bearings are all turned down so they fit into the notches on the bottom case half before you put the top on...

i saw from your first post that you have a k&n filter... is it a single in the stock air box, single with the y pipe and no air box or twin pods clamped straight on the carbs? from what ive read so far i would jump to a set of 300 mains and see if your problem gets better or worse. most fmf or toomie pipes with clamp on filters at the carbs run 310 mains middle clip and 30 pilots but on the other hand i run a single k&n with y pipe with 290 mains, middle clip on the needle and 30 pilots with fmf gold series pipes...i'm running my bike at sea level but i've also ran it at st. anthonies (like 7000 ft) and diamond lake (6000 ft) and it runs alright there also...on the porting issue, we have a 350 banshee that has stock cylinders/welded crank/ cool head with 18 cc domes/tommie t-5's/kehin 28 mill pwk's and 2 degree timing(yes 2, it will goto 4 but it's set light) advance and with a good rider it chews up most ported 350 bikes. porting will usualy get you up in r's faster but if you dont know how to use that gain then it's useless...

yea, my bad... i forgot this....

well kicking it over a couple more times wont make a difference so just for kicks (pun intended) whats your compression at?

i would replace it but you could chase the threads and get the nut as tight as you can without stripping it out then weld the nut to the end of the axle. you'll have to ditch the axle if you ever have to remove the hub again but it will buy you some time. as for why it's that way i'd assume at one time someone had to beat the axle out of the carrier and didnt put the nut on when they were pounding on it. is it the right rear? i let my buddies take my front end apart on my shee and didnt notice they had mushroomed the top of the ball joints till i got them back from chrome so i had to hack off the top where the cotter pins go and weld the nuts on so they cant back off. and for the scary ride i once went to test ride a shee for my girlfriend and had it out on the asphault going 4'th gear pinned and had the lower right balljoint come apart on me so i feel your pain on the scary part... bottom line, if you trust your welding skills and dont have the extra 2 bills you can take care of it but if you have the cash just get a new one so you dont have to worry about it coming apart...and that hub theshee posted looks like a nightmare. i would never weld a hub to an axle cause it ruins the hub. look's like they welded the studs in also? take it you had to cut it off to get the axle out of the carrier? i'll go above and beyond to keep from spending any cash i dont have to but thats just too much....

never used a wiseco but the hinson basket in our one bike has been working great for about 5 years now. since your ditching the stock basket center punch the rivets inside the basket and drill off the heads then punch them out...

depends on what pipes you have, the t-3's were designed for the older bikes and you have to dent em to make em work with an a-arm frame but besides that you shouldnt have any problems....

just a reminder, april 28'th is our annual dune clean up. for anyone intrested we will have a raffle with many prizes for those involved. also team red bull will be in attendance with free energy drinks for those participating. we will also have the local kawi dealership in attendance with donations as well as our outstanding sponsors modquad and bay area yamaha who always go above and beyond to help out with this event, so if you get a chance come on down and join in the fun and possibly win some stuff while helping keep our riding area's open!

if your talking about the front chain slider that goes on the pivot tube at the frame then yes, you need it. if your talking about the rear guide in front of the rear sprocket then no, you dont need it. i have ran one of our bikes for several years without one but it does up your chances of the chain de-railing off the rear sprocket which can lead to it wadding up and busting your case so dont say you weren't warned...it is also a good idea to run the upper and lower chain rollers also...

a broken chain could cause the damage in your pic but usualy it will bust out the upper part af the case above the drive gear and put a nice hole into the transmission. if thats all the damage you can find on your cases then your pretty lucky imo. i have never seen the clutch pivot arm thingy(sorry, too lazy to look up the actual name on partsfish...) break out like that. i would think it would have had to get something caught behind it and i dont realy think theres enough clearance for that to happen but i havent been all around the world so it could happen...does it leak?

now i've had a few beers so correct me if you think i'm totaly wrong, i'll accept it but i think your going the wrong way. you said the bike runs better when the choke is on right? last time i checked when the choke is applied it richens up the fuel mixture so by that way of thinking you need to add more fuel to cure your problem. you said that when you turned your air screws out nothing happened. last time i checked when you turn the air screws out it makes the mixture leaner so considering that it runs better with the choke on i'd have to agree with greg and check the pilots for clogging, if there clear i'd start fattening up the jetting. like i said, i may be thinking all backward but it makes perfect sense to my drunk ass right now and it cant hurt anything if your going bigger. i know my jetting with fmf gold series pipes and 2 into 1 k&n is 310 mains/ 30 pilots/ 2 turns on the air screw and 4'th clip down on the needle with stock carbs. if it were mine i'd bump the main's up and drop a clip on the needle and see if it gets better. worst thing that can happen is it runs realy fat but thats better than running lean...