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Just randomly doing up a 14 year old post for what purpose???

I talked to redline they can take it in but only want to deal with just a engine. I looking for a shop who can take the whole bike. So when I pick it up it's ready to go. Thank you for the reply do you know any other shops?

Using fully synthetic 15W40 diesel oil in your Banshee instead of the usual 10W-30 can cause the issues you're experiencing. Fully synthetic 15W40 diesel oil is significantly thicker, especially when cold, which can affect engine revving and clutch engagement. Given your Banshee's symptoms, I recommend switching back to the Bel Ray 10W-30 as soon as possible. The proper oil viscosity is crucial for smooth operation, particularly in a high-performance engine like the Banshee's. As for the oil leak, using a stop-leak additive is a temporary fix at best. These additives can sometimes work, but they are not a substitute for proper sealing. If the cases were improperly sealed, the best long-term solution is to have the cases split and resealed correctly. In summary, switch back to the 10W-30 oil and consider addressing the sealing issue more permanently rather than relying on additives. Fully synthetic 15W40 diesel oil is great for heavy trucks but not ideal for your Banshee.

thank you

Redline Racing is pretty close to you now. They just moved a few months ago near Tulsa, OK. https://redlineracing.biz/

Looking for reputable engine builder. I'm in jefferson city mo. Farm and Sand Toys is booked for a year. Do you know the next closest builder?

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First off you have to determine if you’re dealing with paint or powder coat. Go to either Lowe’s, Home Depot or any of your local paint stores and buy some paint stripper. Then use some cotton swabs and only use the stripper where the VIN #’s are stamped. If the numbers on the frame and engine match with what’s on the title then you got lucky and if they don’t then have those numbers checked out and if it doesn’t come back as stolen then you can just sell it with a BOS or even better with a notarized BOS.

Pm me

I hope it helped! I've been doing this for 35+ years & it's somewhat easy for me to do naturally. It's a different story when you try to explain it in written form to others. While I think we have mainly been talking about .500 sportsman/full tree. I'm well experienced in both the .400 & .500 pro light, leaving off top bulb .500 full tree with a delay box & still working on a blocked tree leaving off the last bulb.

Thanks, I was just curious who everyone else like to buy from. Been out of the game a while so everything is different now.

I understand now. Thanks a lot for your detailed explanations.

so when I brought my banshee the vin numbers wasn’t visible but he had the title for it and vin numbers on the title came back good but it look like they painted over the engine vin and the one that’s under the shifter on the frame so I guess my question is what would be a reason for someone would do that ?? Both the engine vin and frame vin is not visible. I was told to use lacquer thinner to remove the paint to make the vin visible cause there looks like there are numbers on the engine vin but u can barely see them and I mean BARLEY. And as for the frame ion see nothing. Why would someone paint the vins especially if they have the title? I already got the bike insured and registered in my name and switch the title in my name, but tbh I want to go back to street bikes so here’s where the problem came in. I found a buyer who was going to give me too dollar for the banshee but got sketched out when he seen that the vins was painted over, even with me showing him the registration plus’s my insurance in title them vins not being visible killed the whole sell. What should I do?? And tomorrow when I use the lacquer thinner on it I’m hoping it will show a vin that matches the title. But if it don’t and I can’t still see the vin or if it don’t match the the one that’s on the title what do y’all recommend I do??

Update, waiting on parts, hope to get some testing done this fall/winter. Angel is completely rebuilding the engine; he did find a broken piston. 1/4 mile is hard on a 2 stroke! We're converting it back to the Rat Poison race fuel. We will primarily use it for 1/8-mile asphalt racing or shorter but not ruling out 300' sand/dirt.

Let's start with your 1st sentence in the main paragraph. So, a racer is cutting consistent shit/slow RTs or red lighting. I know I'm going to make changes to the race vehicle(s) set-up to change the RT! Now, for the second sentence. There's only one time a year I set up for a perfect RT. We have a 50K run for the money. A perfect package wins, we set-up for a .000 RT. The rest of racing against an opponent we don't shoot for perfect RT. Reaction times have a variance based on different factors. We try to keep that variance as tight as possible: Let's use a .010 RT variance for testing/qualifying. During racing if I set up for a perfect RT. The RTs are going to vary -.005 - .005, going red isn't going to work for my racing. Now, take that same .010 variance & set-up for a .005 RT medium; you theoretically get RTs in the .000 to .010 range. I do agree with staging shallow as possible to keep RTs & ETs the most consistent.

Click on the BansheeHQ sponsor banner at the top of the page. There’s a couple engine builders on the list. Call them and talk to them about what you’re looking to do.

How to change your reaction times & ET with staging??? You should never want to change your rt. You always want to get a perfect rt when racing against someone. I don't believe that there's any advantage in deep staging since you take away your rollout. I always advice persons to stage as shallow as possible to utilize as much rollout as possible when the ambers/yellow lights are on. Practice getting a perfect rt when shallow staging. That way when the lights go green and you leave the stage beam, your et timer will start at 0.000 seconds but your vehicle is already moving with a rolling start. The rolling start you get also helps a lot with your et and top speed.

JSins, Wow, someone posted in the Drag Forum! I see you recently joined & the above post is your 1st. Thanks for contributing!

So because of age go with hot rods? Why would that be better then oem? Cost? Just curious. Also Does anyone have a parts list of seals/gaskets etc. so I can order it all and have it. I hate finding I need a stupid seal and have to wait another week. I’m sure you all been there. I know I asked this already , but just replacing the crank bearings is a no no? I have a 20 ton press and bearing pullers (ones for ring and pinion bearings ). I’m not going to go that way and cheap out, just curious why not if the main crank bearings are the issue. I realize the rod bearings can’t be changed without a bunch of special tools and what not to get it back together. But replacing the outer bearings seems doable. I’ve got a not of money into my banshees and want them to work when I take the time off and drive 10 hours to go ride. I’ll just get the hot rods. As far as where to buy, who do ya all recommend? One mentioned fast. Are there any other good vendors? I’m in Northern California.

WHEN DOES THE TIMER START IN YOUR LANE?? The rt timer starts from -0.500 seconds (perfect rt set as 0.000 with a 0.5 sec sportsman tree) when the last amber or yellow light turns on and stops when the stage light goes off ( vehicles leaves the stage beam ). The stage sensor is responsible for detecting when the vehicle leaves the start line. The stage sensor is what the system relies on to stop the rt timer and instantaneously start the et timer.

I found the issue.. after exhusting every thing that can be tested and everything else ohm ing with in specs. I REMEMBERED that I did replace the pickup coil the one that comes with the white/green and white/red wires. And thought maybe those wires are backwards. So after swapping the pins on the stator connector side, what do yoy know she started right up on my old OEM cdi smh..and ran great. Ill post vid in a bit.

Yes . It is

Tors brain unplugged? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So like the title says.. After one night of riding the banshee would not start no more, funny smell like speaker \ hot metal smell. Would not start but has spark. Figured the cdi clapped out when everything else checked out.. brought a cheap Chinese CDI bikes starts right up but breaks up mid to full throttle. Figured it can be due to the cheap cdi so ordered new oem CDI. New OEM CDI won't start the banshee but has spark. I'm confused. Info on shee Full new top and bottom end build no air leaks. Stock carbs no thors, dmc pipes . I'm thinking maybe a wiring issue on harness? Still don't understand how it starts up with cheap chi es cdi but no mid or top end spark when in gear but if in N it revs out perfect

I’m looking for a good set of crank cases. Lmk what you have.