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** Damn autocorrect it’s Resistor not Resister. **

You might want to consider changing the spark plug boots. The early year banshees had and used a non- resister spark plug B8ES and the part that unscrewed from the inside of the spark plug boot was the resister. The newer banshees don’t have the resister inside the spark plug boots because they uses resister spark plug BR8ES . This might help as well.

Yamaha banshee wont start I have a 2000 Yamaha banshee 350. Since I purchased it 3 years ago, it's started up first or second kick every time. Just recently I put new gas in it, cleaned the air filter, and (attempted to) replace the spark plugs. I started first by replacing the gas. Afterwards it started again on the first kick and ran fine. Then I tried to replace the spark plugs, realized that I bought the wrong ones, and put the old spark plugs back in. The first kick it started, and then died (first time this has ever happened). Then I started it again, and the same thing happened. After a couple more attempts I got the quad to idle again and everything seemed okay. Finally, I then took off the air filter, cleaned, and re-oiled it (I followed all of the k&n cleaning instructions very carefully), but when I put the air filter back on the next day I couldn't get it to start. I checked the plugs and there's still spark in both of them. When I try to bump start it it bogs for a couple seconds, then dies. Any ideas? I'd also like to add that the screw inside the spark plug boot popped out of the boot when I took the plug out of the left cylinder. I simply threaded it back into the boot, but could this still be an issue? Again, it is still getting spark when I crank it.

I got both, I sold my 250r. Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

250r. I raced my banshee in harescrambles for about ten years. I put on a -1 swing arm. +1 +2 a arms. elka shocks. These helped but the frame geometry is what holds it back. I now race 250r. The 250r is 10 times better.

Save a ton of money and get either Shearers or CPI instead of handmade pipes. id go stock cylinder, stock crank (welded) vf4 reeds and 28 pwks. If your wanting bigger have driveline do the job.

And for hand cone pipes I’m going with Kenny roberts.

What’s up guys I’m not sure if I wanna go ported stock crank or 4 mil , I was really looking into going 4mil stock cylinder but everybody tells me to go ported serval from redline but i serval cylinder kit is so expensive compared to a driveline 421 setup.my question to you guys should I go stock stroke ported,stock cyl 4 mil or serval or driveline cylinder. I will be doing supporting mods like ,cpi or hand coned pipes,pwk 28 but might go bigger 33-35mm pwk, stock oem head cut and modified since it’s new condition bought it before I was gonna go 4 mil.+4 timing,driveline hd clutch and hd springs.v force reeds v3 or v4 depending if I can find a good deal. I just find a serval or cub a lot of money if a driveline cylinder can give you similar power for less money that can be spent somewhere else. I also ride trails,street,track, open field and power lines riding a lil bit of everything honestly .the part of Florida I’m in has a lot of sugar sand.

Yamaha Banshee, 2004 Black Stock FMF pipes 6" swingarm dirt and sand tires Cascade Polished items, 1998 White Blue Stock T5 pipes 6" swingarm dirt and sand tires Cascade Polished items, 1998 White Blue Stroker Cub Cyl. Lockup clutch 35mm Carbs CPI pipes Cascade Silencers dirt and sand tires Cascade Polished items, 1992 Black Purple Pink painted plastic Stroker 35mm carb T5 pipes lots of chrome and polished items sand tires only. All have clear titles. Buy them all and get any and all extra parts that I have. $ 21,500

I plan on it. Just trying to have the parts to fix it so I don't blow it up

You either hung open your carbs, or created one hell of an air leak. Definitely need to do a leak down test any time you remove anything with a seal/gasket that deals with the engine…..at least for safe measures.

Do a pressure check before putting it back in tha frame. Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

Ok so I recently replaced both intake boot on my 98 yamaha banshee. I pushed it out to start it and it fired up with choke on then died I turned the choke off and it fired right up. I revved it 2 time to about 1/4 throttle and on the second time it made a loud popping noise and revved to full throttle. I turned the key off and it shutdown. I pushed it back in the garage and pulled both carbs and intakes off I checked the reeds witch are stock reeds and cages and they are fine. I noticed that the left cylinder base gasket was wet so I pulled the cylinder and it didn't seal good. I'm going to replace the gaskets is there anything else that I should check. It's a 65.00 mm piston with a 4 mil stroker crank, stage 4 exhaust and not sure about the silencers but they look like they could be fmf but not sure. I don't have tores or parking brake, I have installed a teather kill switch. Any help is appreciated

Ha you know its funny when^^ laughs out LOUD'boutit

Where’d you buy this junk from?

Lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do a squish and uccr test and report back. Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

Hello, I recently purchased a 421 kit for my banshee, it came with 19cc domes. I’ll be running 35mm carbs. Was just wondering what octane I’ll need to run to maximize the power of the engine, but would also like to keep reliability. Just looking to get it running the best I possibly can. Willing to order new domes. Any advice is appreciated

I have used OEM, Tusk and EBC without any issues.

What’s up my fellow Banshee owners! ( I know that I might get a few crack remarks about this post). My banshee is coming up to being 20 years old and I have never changed the front and rear brake pads on it. I was out riding her recently and noticed that the front and rear brakes were mushy so I figured it was nothing majorly wrong and then I decided to inspect them while doing some routine maintenance on her. I found that both front and rear brake pads are pretty much worn out. My rotors are pretty clean and straight with no signs of warping. I would like everyone’s opinion on what brand brake pads are good to use? I am looking at either buying OEM, EBC or DP brake pads. Thanks !

mine is 3GG-230*** on the left side of the frame, it isnt even engraved into the frame its like painted on or something. im in uae and all of the banshees have VINs like this so i dont think its fake but i cant find then decoder

Sorry, I was typing to fast but My Banshee vin starts with JY43GG***********.

It should be stamped with 2 letters and a number then 3GG and then 11 numbers and a letter after that. Example my banshee vin start with JYA3GG***********.

For some reason my bike vin which is in the frame isn’t the normal size it’s only like 9 digits, starts with the 3gg like the engine number. Does anyone know how I can put it in a vin decoder

I am rebuilding my motor and i have some small imperfections, for example I didnt use the locating pin for the shift drum, i don't have the bearing stopper plate that goes to the shaft behind the clutch, when i shift gears, the gap between the pins and the shift shaft changes whenever i switch gear. in first gear the gaps are equal but when i switch gear it usually gets more uneven. Also, does it really matter which way the washers and cerclips go on the mainshaft and countershaft? if they face inwards or outwards? This is my first engine build btw.