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@HeavyHauler You made an excellent decision on going with Fireball Racing. I got the same exact set up as what you posted. I’ve owned my Fireball Racing LT A-arms since 2020. Till this day I’m still happier than a fat kid who loves cake with this suspension setup.

Hey HeavyHauler, I don’t know what type of riding you do. I’ll do my best to explain my experience with this post. Some others may disagree. Stay away from the 💩 Tusk axle. I installed one for one of the guys I ride with. He spent more time tightening the axle nut and hub nuts and after maybe 3 or 4 rides he returned it back to RMATV for a refund. The Lonestar Axcalibar axle is a good choice. They are made much better now than how they were made 10-15 years ago. I installed one today that replaced a bent Lonestar axle. The bent wasn’t covered by their warranty because the owner of the banshee wasn’t the original purchaser of the axle. Lonestar said that the warranty was already registered with the original purchaser. With the Lonestar Axcalibar axle it uses the OEM sprocket hub, brake rotor hub, axle nuts and wheel hubs. Now the RPM Dominator ll axle is a great axle. They maybe a little bit pricey but I have one on my Banshee and love it. The RPM axle has been on my Banshee for almost 5 years and still looks the day I installed it. The areas I ride in are mainly trails and sand quarries and some places have pea stone. The RPM axle is just like the Lonestar axle. It use all the same OEM parts as the Lonestar axle uses. There warranties are basically the same. The only difference is the price. Check with both companies directly or check with ATV Galaxy on EBay. I hope this information helps.

I would have it blasted as suggested.

I'm not a robot! I can work on anything with motor but don't know Jack bout these new dam phones if I don't do things correct let me know.

Thanks folks u been help on 87 banshee I built for friend if I live long enough to see it run got really sick trying to finish

I wanted to visit with the banshee crowd, been working on race engines since 9 yrs old now 71 owned my own shop for 5 yrs raced for several yrs. Point is you on this site sound like u have your time hands on before speaking on this site! So many times I see people say first I've done this and teaching others how to do project . No faith with them folks. Thanks to all u folks for strait answers by experience folks on subject I ask about, thank you very much.

I have a super similar setup as you have. Like scary close. I’ve had weisco pistons in it for over 10 years. Wouldn’t trust anything else. I have seen some people have problems with them (very few) but those people don’t like to warm their stuff up. They more or so start it and proceed to immediately beat on it….then bitch when they cold seize a piston….

Does anybody have a picture of the wire harness diagram for headlights on a 1987 banshee?

I went with Fireball Racing LT A-arms and Elka’s stage 3 front shocks and a standard travel stage 3 rear shock. According to Fireball Racing I should have the a-arms by Dec 19th or 20th and should have the shocks by the end of January according to Elka. Now I have to shop around for an axle.

I tried to make this a poll but it didn’t work. As the title states. which brand of axle is good? Which brand of axle would you buy? 1- Lonestar Axcalibar 2- RPM Dominator ll 3 Tusk Racing Adjustable Axle. Thanks, Jake P.S The cost doesn’t really matter.

Weisco. Always.

I’m currently running a very similar engine build to yours. Had wiseco pistons for too many seasons(like 8 years). Looked great when I decided to rebuild it. I put new wisecos. I’m on third season this year. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Man this thread brings back some memories. I dealt with Kevin about ten years ago, to make a long story short, the build simply never ran right until I gave up and went to another builder. One thing I noticed about him was that he simply guessed at what could be wrong, he would say things like pour fresh fuel in there, check timing, check compression, change your plugs, adjust air screws, but never knew how to fix things, other builders when i would ask about my issues would figure things out pretty quickly, that to me was a serious red flag that HJR really doesn’t know what he’s doing since some of those issues were pretty obvious and simple to correct, especially if you are a legit banshee builder. I ended up going to Eric Friend from empire industries when he was still in riverside, night and day difference in build and tuning, he built me a 90+ hp 421 cub, shearers, 39mm pwks, race gas domes, etc, totally different animal than the stock cylinder, stock stroke ported build HJR was supposed to do. I don’t know how people say Kevin does good work, I know of quite a few builders here in SoCal who are fixing his builds all the time. You made the right choice by going with Mike, he knows his shit!

I have been reading up on pistons. Almost every post I read says stock or mild builds, run Pro X or stock pistons. High HP builds run forged Wisecos. What I don't know is what is considered mild and what is considered high hp? I am running stock cylinders at 64.25 mm bore with 189 degrees exhaust and 127 degree transfer duration. Cool head with 20cc domes. IIRC 155-160 cranking compression. .045" squish. FMF fattys, stock carbs/pod filters for right now. Planning to try some 30mm next year. Last year I ran Pro X pistons that were correctly sized to the bore. At the end of the year, I had a spark plug that kept coming loose on the left side. It was a cheap china dome for the pro design cool head. Not sure what was the chicken or the egg, but either way left side piston was damaged. Did the damaged piston cause the spark plug to come loose, or spark plug come loose and suck air and damage piston? Not really sure. The piston had some of the skirt broke off, wrist pin was loose, and it was contacting the head. I would think my build is considered pretty mild. I like the idea of the closer wall clearances/ more forgiving warm up/hopefully longer life of cast pistons, but I only got 1 year out of the last build. I can't really blame the piston type, because it very well could have been the cheap dome that caused the whole deal. For similar builds, what are most folks using? Thanks Lynn

Take a pic of yours, then color them in on your picture editing. I'm dumb, and can even do it

He does have the best deals on mild steel swingarms tho . Dave5.0 highly recommended

Thinking of painting my fmf chambers. Anyone have pics?

I purchased a milwaukkee packout dolly from this guy, was never listed as a 2-3 week lead time like the other products he lists, ended up taking a month even after we were emailing back and forth i requested a refund multiple times and he basically declined giving me excuses and too "hold on". We'll after a month he finally shipped my dolly, thing is, I don't know if this guy did this on purpose (probably) but the $90 casters he was bragging about coming with the dolly and pictured on his site, well I didn't get those, I got cheap off the shelf Chinese casters I could go buy for $5/pop. Absolute rip off that my refund request was declined and then I get sent a falsely advertised product. Never again will I deal with that guy again, that goes without saying I would have made something myself with better quality and faster. Something I'm going to do more often as people will sell you Absolute shit without mercy. Learn to use cad and just get your shit cncd, turns out that is the easy way.

Howdy! How's your search for shop or mechanic?

As the title states, I am running into a slightly lean condition on the right cylinder according to the spark plug. My alcohol-fueled cub motor is calling for the right-cylinder power jet to be completely closed while the left-cylinder power jet is only one turn from completely open. With these power jet setting the spark plugs read identical. These are the things I have check when troubleshooting: Cleaned the carbs and swapped sides, swapped sides with the spark plug boots, leak-checked the motor (held 7 in. of vacuum overnight), and changed the spark plugs multiple times. What am I missing? Could bad reeds cause this problem?

We're going back to the basics with the DMX! While the clutch lever feels pretty light, I have no idea what the baseline clutch set-up is. I pulled the clutch set-up out today to baseline the clutch. It has a Direct Drive Lock-up installed with a decent amount of staggered weight installed. It only had 4 springs installed, 2 appear to be stock & the other 2 are unknown. Pulling out the clutch plates, I found this is an 8-plate clutch system. I have the measuring tools coming to do a complete baseline of the current clutch set-up. This baseline was used for 1/4-mile racing & it will probably change. We will start testing with the baseline. Then will provide the changes made to hopefully improve the 60's with a heavy chassis/rider. Thee one & only 1700Camaro/STY! 😛

This stupid quad is consuming way too much of my time since it's been home! We have 2 sets of needles for the Q16 race fuel for the Lectrons. We have the leanest set installed. I changed out 1 set of alky power jets for some smaller Vito's power jets as recommended by Packard. As for the timing, we're going to leave the same timing curve as when it was on alky. Should be updating the pinned Clutch Tuning Thread. Thee one & only 1700Camaro/STY!

Look at the “what jets are you using “ thread pinned in this forum. You’ll find the answer

I’m wondering what jet sizes, needle position, and air fuel mixture should I be running on my banshee that is stock with t5 pipes and k&n pods straight on the filters, Im in az were the altitude is around 2,400 ft above sea level. if y’all could suggest any tips I appreciate it its on the original mikuni carbs

With that info…..there’s more questions you’ve created than answers…. what mods do you have on your bike? What is your elevation? what temps? when did you last jet your bike? First guess…..you’re running lean on your bike which is causing the heat buildup. And the sticking throttle can be caused by either your carbs icing up, the carbs injesting snow/water (which is known to stick these carbs) or also worn slides on the carbs….