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there you have it. "cheap chinese" you can't fix this. throw it away or try it with Loctite one time 😄

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I purchased a Pingle Power-Flo dual outlet petcock from a BHQ sponsor (Redline Racing) after the OEM petcock started to have problems. So I contacted Redline and Cam told me to follow his instructions on how to install it on his YouTube channel and so I went ahead and watched it and I did exactly what he said and it worked perfectly. My only question is with the dual 5/16” hose barb outlets are facing downwards to much. Is it possible to slightly adjust the hose barb outlets so that they are upwards more? I don’t want to mess with it and cause any type of damage. Thanks Jake

No, I have no sense of humor.

i personally can recommend the Pro Design Foam Filter. the first thing i had to change, only 2 weeks after i got my shee delivered from the Dealer in April 2020, was the OEM Filter, because the Dealer smeared Filter Oil all over the foam O-Ring. probably to make sure it seals well. but when i removed the filter, the O-Ring was sticking to the Air Filter Box then ripped off. i had no other choice to purchase a new one. a OEM Filter was hard to get and i did not wanted it anyway, so i came across the Pro Design, which was in stock at a german online shop, that offers also a lot of other parts for the Banshee (OEM & After Market). i paid 129,00 Euros for it. unfortunately the price went up to 139,00€ currently. since then, the PD is still in good shape still. no rips in the rubber jacket. but after approximately two years, there was a small hole inside the red outer filter hull, directly at a seam, i glued it together with super glue. worked out well. in my opinion, this wasn't a materal fault but those 4 spiky plastic thingies that stick out inside the Air Box and also the Air Box Cover were the actual culprits. they are probably there to fix the OEM Filter and prevent it from rattling. after i realized it, i shortened them with a Dremel and rounded the remaining stumps with a File. i did not cut them off completely, just as far so they don't poke very deep into the Filter anymore. the installation was quite easy. but make sure the holes that you have to drill into the Ait Filter Box are tight and not not bigger than the screws. also add liquid engine seal or silicone tothe srews to prevent air leaks.

Squish and uccr test then report back. Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

Skeeter, is that sarcasm lol?

Anytime my plugs tried coming out, a trick racing plug lock fixed issue. But usually ended up blowing up soon after, probably not related

Thanks for the reply. I built the motor, so no builder to contact lol. I did forget to mention the squish is .045 measured with a piece of solder in a few places.

Still sounds like a deto issue to me if you’re shaking plugs loose. Just because you tried a higher octane doesn’t mean that the knockoff domes are cut correctly. The squish could be way off, the dome angle could be off….. it could have a wicked ridge creating a hot spot…… and 170psi is no joke…. That’s right on the ragged edge of 93 to the point that everything has to be perfect to not have problems…. Point is …When you’re squeezing things that hard….. things get weird. Shit look at diesel….. it’s essentially a fuel oil…. But runs in an engine with enough squeeze You know that you don’t trust those Chinese domes….. so just go the right way and call your builder and get some quality domes in that machine

I have an issue with mainly if not always the left spark plug loosening on my banshee. I have a set of cheap Chinese 19cc cool head domes on it. The spark plug threads seemed a little loose to me right out of the box. I probably should have sent them back, or not ordered cheap crap at all, but I don't seem to learn. Here is some info about the build just to make sure its not detonation or lean. Pro X stock replacement pistons 1st oversize. FMF fattys. MX/dune port, I cannot find my notes on port specs, but I think the exhaust was at 195, cannot remember the transfer. 19cc domes. With throttle open kicking until it stops, I have 170 psi of cranking compression. Timing is advance 4 degrees. Stock carbs with 340 mains(largest in my kit.). I cannot remember the pilot jetting. K&N style pod filters. 32:1 gas to oil ratio. Currently running 93 octane fuel with 1 quart of VP madditive per 10 gallons of fuel, but I have tried vp113 with no change in symptoms with the plug. The piston top seems to have the right coloration, plug ground strap timing mark doesn't show too high of timing. Could the cheap domes with poor thread engagement be causing this? I can convince myself either way when I think of it. They tighten up without stripping, so I would say even though the thread engagement is poor, it probably should stay tight unless stripped. But if the thread engagement is bad, then as it heats up, it gets looser and then shakes out from vibration. I will say these banshees shake like a dog shitting fish hooks. Its hard to keep things tight. The vibration is nuts. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks Lyn

Start high and work from there. Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

So I decided to bite the bullet and take it to the next level on my 4 mil banshee. Currently have stock carbs 4 mil crank stock cylinders with a macdaddy trail port. I just ordered some pwk 35 airstrikers, driveline assasin 421 kit and some 23cc big bore domes for my coolhead. I will be running toomey t5 pipes for now, +4 timing vforce 4 reeds and a k&n with an open airbox. What jetting do you guys think I should start with on my new pwk air strikers on this new setup? I'm about 50-600 feet in elevation where I ride and plan on running pump gas 93 octane what do you all think? Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

Your bike will run +4 timing fine without any more modifications. There are different amounts that can be shaved off the stock head….. that’s why I say to send it with your cylinders to a site sponsor. These guys have been doing it forever and will be able to shave the head to what your motor is ported for. Take too much off because you had a regular machine shop do it, and you could be asking for a nightmare of problems….. like detonation, improper squish, etc…..

Would my bike run fine with +4 timing and a stock engine? I want to find someone good at shaving the head near me, I think it would take some time. So I want to get the timing plate on before that.

You can get your head shaved through any of the reputable site sponsors on here…. They can take care of that while they do your port work

Why are you so worried about splitting the cases? They split too and bottom….if you flip it upside down, you don’t even need to remove the top end…….ive seen guys replace trans parts in campground sites in just a couple hours start to finish….

Im in Indiana @600 elevation. 34pj carb. Best running so far is 55 pilot, 178 main, eel needle second clip from top. Air screw 1/2 out is best response and running. It feels softer on bottom than I think it should. I have bigger pilots, mains, and a eej needle ordered. Any advice would be great.

Get yourself a Coolhead with 19 - 22cc domes. Get some GENUINE V-force 4 reeds and a good quality adjustable timing plate . Stay away from the cheap counterfeit chinese knockoff stuff.

The United Arab Emirates in the Middle East, I only do dune riding.