swrbansheeboy

yup. stuff some rags around the rods so if one gets away from you you dont have to fish it out of the bottom end...

banshee, warrior, blaster, raptor, yfz 450 front wheels are all interchangable. banshee, warrior, raptor and yfz 450 rear wheels are all interchangable unless your banshee has the 88/89 style 156 mm hubs. all of the bigger yamaha quads (200 cc up) have 156 mm front hubs. and all yamaha quads 350 cc and up except for the 88/89 banshee have 115 mm hubs last time i checked ( i'm sure someone will correct me on this...) so you should be good with just about any rear wheel from any of the bigger yamaha quads. as for tires, you will learn to make any tire you end up buying work for your riding style but my vote is for a set of 20-10-10 8 paddle haulers or extreems. i ran them before i stepped up to 10 paddle extreems and they did everything i ever needed to do.

yea, swapping out the stock rubber lines for braided lines will make a huge improvement. i would do that first then swap calipers if your brakes still seem to be lacking what your looking for...

i agree, more than likley your steering stem stop is bent and need's to be pounded back into place. and as Snopczynski said if the end's of the stop have big dents in them you may need to weld them up to fill the dents. here's a pic of the reinforcment i do whenever i prep a frame for powder just to give you an idea...

if you take your time and go easy with a rubber mallet you can usualy get the clutch cover to split without damaging the gasket and just bolt it back up. if your going to do a new impeller you will need to get a new impeller cover gasket because they always come apart when you pull the cover ( they get stuck like glue and you have to pry the cover off ) i've seen them installed with rtv and all types of sealants but your better off just getting a new gasket. other than that you should be money for gaskets. be carefull tightening up the clutch spring bolts cause they will snap off and you'll wind up taking a pick set to work them back out. dont quote me but i think there supposed to be torqued to 10 inch pounds? and your gonna want an impact driver to pull the screw on the shift star and make sure it's put back on tight. dont wail on it but make it tight enough that it wont back off cause if it does back off you know it will be when your 50 miles out and in 6'th gear so your stuck...lol

yea, jack the ass end up and spin the axle. you should be able to tell where it's grinding from that but you can always pull the chain to make sure it's in the rear end (bearings or brakes) and not something with the chain and sprockets.

i ride only dunes with my shee and make about 6-8 trips a year. last time i had to get a chain i went with a primary drive gold x-ring from rocky mountain after checking the spec's and finding they were the same as the d.i.d. i've been running it for 2 years now and have had no problems so far and it still looks new. my last chain was a d.i.d. gold x-ring and it lasted me about 4 years so the primary drive seems to be holding up about as good ad my d.i.d. did. i payed about $120 for the old one and about $80 for the primary drive. as for sprockets i just run whatever the local bike shop has in stock but i think next time a swap them out i'm gonna try the primary drive sprockets also just to see how long they last. i figure at half the cost if i get half the use out of them i didnt get ripped off but i'm happy with the chain.

take a shop vac and suck out all that you can then run it....

true story, elevation does play a role in jetting but i've ran my sea level jetted bike at saint anthonies idaho and diamond lake oregon with no problems other than it ran a bit rich. and i'd rather tell someone to jet a bit fat and have there bike blubber a little and have to jet down than go lean and pop there motor...without having a bike in your shop to dick with the jetting it's just a crapshoot discussing it on the internet anyway.....the 320/30/middle should still be within the limits to make the bike run and still be on the safe side of not being lean and blowing up. thats all i was getting at...

are you pushing them on or screwing them on?

if you look under the rear of the bike by the cdi you should find a blue wire and a black wire with bullet type ends on them that will connect to the bullet type ends on the tail light. you shouldnt have to ground out the tailight because the wire's should already be there...

that plate looks smoked, i would replace the steels and mic the fiber's to make sure there within spec. then put in new springs for good measure. just my o-pin-ion...

you said that you kicked the timing back down to +6 and your running 91 octain fuel, what were you originaly running your timing at? even at +6 i think you need to be running something more than 91 octain fuel. did it sound like it was detonating when it was running good? also i think fox_forma is on the right track for jetting. i'd have at least a set of 320 mains with 30 pilots and middle clip on the needles for that motor. my main question is have you done a compression test and a leak down test? if so what were your results and if not do them. with your advanced timing and the octain rating of the fuel your using i would want to rule out the possibility that you had detonation and it burnt a hole through one of your pistons. the only way to figure it out is to do a compression test. if thats good then make sure you havent got a major air leak somewhere by doing a leak down test. if both tests pass with flying colors and theres no obvious signs like burnt wiring harness or loose connections then it's time to break out the manual and the volt meter. hopefully it's something realy trivial and easy but if you had your timing jacked up on 91 octain fuel i'm worried you may have smoked a piston... and i'm sure you've pulled your fuel lines and opened the petcock to confirm you have good flow from the tank.

words of wisdom. this will tell you where you need to focus your trouble shooting efforts. if you swap plug wires and the problem changes cylinders then it's electrical. if not then it's most likley a fuel delivery problem either carburation or fuel supply. sound's like your running lean on your right cylinder since you said the plug looked brand new. usualy if it's a spark problem the plug will still be a bit wet and your pipe will load up with unburnt fuel...

one major rule to flaming someone in a forum is that if your going to go to the trouble to be a super dick by posting something smart ass in huge capital letters at least take the time to make sure it's spelled right, otherwise it just lets everyone know that your parents "WASED" there tax money on your education... as for the boost bottle, save your cash unless your just looking for something else to polish. i see your new so do yourself a favor and take a couple hours and browse the forums and learn to use the search function to look things up before you post. might save you a bashing next time. and check out planet blaster, there a little more forgiving to newbie blaster questions...

i'd say that your tires are out of round. i'd also say that if your making 80+ mph on asphault i'd like to know what your set up is and if thats a guesstimate or if you've actualy been clocked at that speed....

i agree, if you look at the end of the shaft that the ldler gear mounts too you will probably find that the groove that should hold the washer you found and a snap ring to retain it has the edge of the groove all busted off. the only way to fix it is to break the cases and replace the transmission shaft. if thats the case then sorry about your bad luck, i just had to do this in the wifes bike. if your a mechanicly inclined type of guy then it wont be a thing. make sure to replace all the seals while your in there cause it's cheep insurance...

i agree, the last set of cylinders we had re-sleaved cost around $750 after port matching/machining and labor...

it's like a $40 job to replace the seal and bearing on the impeller and the o-ring on the pass through. i wouldnt worry about how to check things out. if you have it torn apart you might as well just replace everything because its gonna cost you more than $40 worth of agrivation if you slap it back together half assed and still have a problem. if the bearings shot then it will chew up your new seals so just do it all while your in there so you know it's done...

agreed, if the oil level is right then a right side crank seal failure can pump air pressure into the case causing oil to blow out the vents...

isnt 66.50 5 sizes over stock? like 50 thousanths over bore? or is something wrong with my brain....

i say run the +4 untill you wheelie backwards. more hp doesnt mean you have to go longer, untill you feel that the bike is climbing too much out of the hole then you dont need a longer arm. plus if you ride any trails then a longer arm will just cause you clearance issues when your trail riding...if all you do is drag then go for the +8....

i say run whatever you wanna run just drain the tank before you switch. most oils say they will blend but you never know so draining the tank is extra insurance....

do a leak down test... that will tell you if you have a bad seal or not....

agreed, unless you have a clearance issue or just want some more crap to polish dont bother with either. i put spacers on my bike when i first bought it and it already had a boost bottle and i havent noticed any type of gains from either of them. they do look pretty when there all polished up though...lol