swrbansheeboy

i think $75 is way too much, i can get a 22x dvd burner with lightscribe and nero 7 for $35 from enu... http://www.enuinc.com/o-drw-lg-003.html

there are a dozen ways to transfer audio to your comp and convert to mp3 but if all your trying to do is transfer lp's then you can purchase a usb turntable.

for "backing up" my movies (to rent or borrow and copy a movie would be illegal) i use dvd fab platinum. it does one to one backups and also does compression backups (standard 8 gig converted to 4.7) with full menu's. it also does conversions to ipod, psp and cell phone formats... you can download a 30 day trial here... http://www.dvdfab.com/download.htm i've heard that you can download a crack to unlock it but that would be wrong. iv'e also heard that if you attempt to find a crack for said program to make sure your antivirus and spyware programs are up to date because most sites with said crack are prone to viruses/spyware. fab usualy stays pretty up to date on the latest encryption used by the major lables. if you purchase the program for "backing up" your movies then you get unlimited updates to the software vs. using a cracked copy (which i would never recomend cause it's wrong) where you would have to use untill you get too many movies you find will not back up for you then you have to get a new version and crack...

agreed, as long as your crank isnt trashed then you should be good with a bore and pistons....

have you done a leak down test yet? that will tell you if it's a seal or not. what ratio do you mix your fuel at?

if it we're me i would swap out the water pump shaft seal and the o-ring for the pass through. if the cover seal or the kicker seal leak then it's no big deal, you lose some tranny fluid then pull it and replace them. if the water seals leak then you smoke clutches and possibly fry tranny gears...

now that my friends is funny, if you can't see the humor in that post then you won't find humor in anything....lol

you can run them both, you just have to wire them up to run one set at a time. on your stock plugs you will have three wires, black-green and yellow. if you want to use your stockers for low beam's then cut the yellow wire and use it to feed the positive side of your new lights. you can either tap the black wire for ground or run the new light grounds to the frame. if you want to run your stockers as high beams then cut the green wires to power the new lights. you can also wire both to run at the same time by tapping the yellow wire for power to the new lights, that way the stockers only run on low and all four will run on high but unless you have an aftermarket stator i dont reccomend it, all four lights running on a stock stator will be realy dim and eventualy burn something up....

i agree, the vent on the rear of the case between the back motor mount should run to a t that goes to the line coming from the clutch cover above the water pump cover. the other line is supposed to go up into the hoop behind the steering stem and is a vent tube. whatever you do dont connect it to your radiator, if your bike overheats it will fill your case with coolant...

its kind of hard to figure out what caused a bearing to let loose after the fact... it could have been that the seal went bad and caused the piston to detonate and once it melted down it shoved all that aluminum through the bearing causing it to fail. it could have been a lean condition on the left carb that caused the bearing to heat up and fail so it took out the seal once it went. it could have just been a beat bearing that finaly went and took the seal with it causing an air leak that leaned it out and melted the piston. theres many different scenarios for what caused it but any way you slice it your stuck fixing it now, just pay attention when your in there replacing everything to make sure you dont miss anything that could cause it to happen again.

what type of terrain are you planning to ride on?

if your running 110 and the bikes running properly then i'd say the sky's the limit, i'd probably do 18's...

if you have a manual then it should be pretty self explanitory, just dont pry on them with anything... pull all the bolts from the top and bottom and use a rubber mallet to brake them apart, there are a couple spots on the front and rear that are safe to whack on that are pretty evident if you take a couple seconds to look at where they mate together...

you might also try some type of spray on mag wheel polish, i know eagle makes some that has a small amount of acid in it and is designed to cut through brake dust and crap. i've used it before on my mustang and it does a good job of cutting the stains on aluminum rims but it leaves a white residue. just an idea... http://www.eagleone.com/pages/products/pro...01&cat=5006

apparently powerbrokerz is now the main site for toomey so i dont know if they still offer the deal but... toomey used to have a deal on there site where you could send them a old set of any toomey headpipes (t-3's to t-6's)and for like $125 they would swap them out for a new set of t-5's in black. if you wanted them in chrome it was like $250 exchange. i dont know if powerbrokerz still does this deal but in the event they still do you might be able to score an old set of t-4's for realy cheep and swap the headpipes out for $125-$250 and basicly get a new set of pipes for pretty cheep depending on what you score the exchange set for. you'd have to call them and ask if they still do it though.... http://www.powerbrokerz.com/

i'm pretty sure your alright... as long as the aluminum is still intact structuraly and the mating surfaces are still true then you shouldnt have anything to worry about. i doubt oxyclean is capable of altering the molecular structure of aluminum so you should be good.

a compression test should tell you if it's still run-able for the weekend.

if the slides are backward it wont want to idle... have you done a leak down test?

let me clairify... it was mentioned earlier to re-torque the head and see if that solved the problem, i was stating that if the gasket was blown then re-torquing wouldnt make the gasket functional and that if he believed that the gasket was the culprit then he needed to install a new gasket because re-torquing the blown one wouldnt work. and actualy with a bad head gasket there usualy isnt any visualy signs, they usualy leak into the cylinder and the coolant ends up getting blown out the pipe. thats why everyone usualy asks if your blowing sweet smelling white smoke out of one of the pipes. a bad gasket can work both ways... it can suck coolant into the cylinder and blow it out the pipe and it can also allow pressure from the cylinder to pressurize the coolant passages and blow coolant out of the overflow. kinda like having a bad reed, on the upstroke it will pressurize and on the downstroke it will create a vacuum... i guess i'd have to ask if it sounds like the radiator is boiling when you kill the bike or any other signs that it's overheating? if so then it's probably some sort of blockage or a bad impeller/drive gear. if it's running at a regular temp then it could be the head gasket...

theres actualy only one pickup rides next to the flywheel, there are two nodes on the flywheel. the coil fires both plugs every 180 degrees on the shee, the nodes are set 180 degrees apart to send the signal to the cdi telling the coil to fire both plugs. since one piston is at tdc and the other at bdc it doesnt matter if both plugs fire at the same time. unlike a car/truck the banshee doesnt have a distributor to direct the spark to a certain cylinder so instead it just fires both plugs at the same time to overcome the lack of a distributor. it's actually a pretty cool idea and comes in pretty handy when troubleshooting problems, i wish i could just swap wires on my mustang to determine if one of my cylinders wasnt working properly....

dumb question but... do you have the choke crossover tube installed between the carbs? that will cause it to run hot and boil over. also if the head gasket is bad then re-tourqing it wont fix it, you need to clean it up and install a new head gasket...

i hope so, if it wasnt connected there should be coolant puking out of the head...

this what your hunting for? (btw, this would be from the left side carb)

tried yamaha yet?

kinda depends on your definition of "lightening" we usualy cut off all the tabs for anything that's not currently bolted to the bike, i've even hacked off the headlight mounts on a couple guys bike's. some of the old school draggers used to lighten there frames by drilling holes all over the frame. you can even chop the back end off and add a lighter sub-frame. like i said, it all depends on what you consider to be lightening your frame. i usualy just do all the tabs for the stock pipes, the pins for the air box and grind down and weld up the motor mount tubes. re-weld where the factory missed and smooth everything out. basicly loose everything you dont see ever using again and dress up whats left.... ultimately your not losing much weight and unless your dragging you'll never notice the difference, it's more for aesthetics on a dune or trail bike...