swrbansheeboy

Man that spray weld is killer looking

I agree with Chris, if you just keep changing your gearing you will eventually get the right combination to overcome your lean jetting condition. Don't listen to these guys who say your jetting is to lean, just keep with the re-gearing and you will eventually get it right. Paddling up will help also, more hook will defiantly make your motor run more rich! You seem like a very smart guy, you must know a lot because you have a 100 hp bike and have stumbled on the secret of re-gearing to overcome jetting that the rest of these guys haven't figured out yet so just keep on with what your doing as there is no further knowledge that can be gained here....

agreed, the first and easiest thing you should do to troubleshoot a dead cylinder is to swap the plug wires, if the problem changes sides you know that its an electrical problem. no switch and you know it's mechanical...

yea, if it's your first time splitting a set of cases i'd suggest getting a flywheel puller and removing the flywheel and everything on the pto side of the engine (clutch basket mainly) so you can get a better look at everything that's holding it all together

if it's a ricky toss it and try a stock one...

Ditto, the first thing i would do is swap plug wires to see if the problem changes sides. if it does then it's electrical, if not then it's mechanical...

Maybe you should go back and read what was posted, he was saying that if elka didnt understand what was being presented then he had no business tearing into his engine since it seemed to be running fine. Maybe you think he would be better off tearing into his engine and costing himself extra cash that a 14 year old doesnt have at his disposal? maybe he should just start ripping things apart just for the experiance of saying he found out what the inside of his engine looked like but realy didnt need to? He wasnt telling him not to work on his bike, he was telling him to do his homework before he starts ripping shit apart for no reason other than some dildo like you said to... Bottom line is that if your going to question the mans methods of conveying his knowledge then be prepared to impart some of your own wisdom, otherwise just stfu, watch and learn... Heres a question for ya smart guy, you say that telling him not to tear his bike apart when it probably wasnt needed wasnt helping him but what information do you have to add that will help him? where's your vast knowledge thats going to help him out with his problem? My money is on you not knowing more than putting gas in your bike and repeating what you've read on here. otherwise you wouldnt come on here bashing snop because you would have something intelligent to add to the topic that might help elka out.

Someone already said it but basicly when you up your compression it squeezes the fuel mixture harder creating more heat inside the cylinder causing the fuel mixture to ignite easier and before the optimum time it should (pre-ignition, detonation) also when you advance your timing it will cause the spark plugs to fire before they normaly would causing basicly the same effect. To combat this problem you run a higher octain fuel that burns slower (harder to ignite) so the ignition of the fuel occures when it should in relation to the stroke of the piston instead of before hand where it creates unwanted heat in the cumbustion chamber. crappy explanation but basicly when you up your compression or advance your timing it will make your lower octain fuels ignite too soon causing excess heat and make things melt so to counter these effects you run a fuel thats harder to burn so it lights up later. Imagine it this way, (not precise but just for shits..) lets say that your fuel is supposed to ignite at top dead center to push the piston down. now when you mod the comp or the timing it causes your fuel to ignite before it gets to tdc so to correct it you need to run something thats harder to ignite so it will now burn at tdc. The same thing goes for running too high an octain fuel in an engine that doesnt require it, in a stock engine lets say everything is working properly and you toss in some 110. now instead of igniting the fuel mixture when it should it now is firing after tdc, you are now losing power because your engine is igniting on the downstroke of the engine past the optimum point it should be.

Guys like you are the main reason that smart guys like snop quit giving out info on these forums... Unless your smart enough to argue that what he's saying is wrong then maybe you should shut the fuck up and let the big kids talk... Elka, as far as the 110 octain gas goes have you checked your compression, timing, squish and whatnot yet to get an idea of what fuel you should be running? just curious since you said you were told that it was a 4 mil and you said it appears that you have a stock stroke crank, maybe the guy told you it required 110 to make you think you were getting a badass race engine when realy it doesnt need to run more than 92? my memory is kind of hazy but i thought 19cc domes on a stock stroke with no timing was right in the area of only needing 92 but i'm probably wrong. one thing to keep in mind is that you can do like i do with our bikes and mix your 110 down half and half with 92, works out to around 102 and helps out on the cost of race gas. I also agree that your getting stroked on gas, we pay $6.80 a gallon for 110 sunoco here....

nope, you can test with the coolant lines connected. technicly if your head gasket is sealed then you shouldnt lose any pressure from the top end...

updated our sponsor list... current sponsors are... douglas county parks modquad bay area yamaha les schwab twister crankshaft omsn/meyer media prm meier plastics axo dependable offroad dreamers fab works elka suspension gt thunder h-bomb films local heros north west rocky mountain atv sand sports magazine sidewinder sprockets todds cottage grove yamaha works shocks rip rod hi-lift atv jacks south coast sanitation hope you can make it as this year will be a great year for prizes and fun cleaning up the dunes!

Just thought i would invite everyone to the 2010 annual SWR dune cleanup, Every year we put on this event to help get some trash off the dunes and give everyone who helps a little something for helping. we have a good start on an impressive list of sponsors, past raffle prizes have included chrome steering stems, swingarms and full sets of elka shocks. The event is scheduled for april 24'th from 10:00 am to 2:00 pm There is some stuff on our main page for the cleanup such as... A link to our 2010 flyer, A link to the page featuring our sponsors so far (with even more links!) And a contact link for those who wish to become sponsors... Feel free to check it out and hopefully you can join us for a fun weekend of giving back to our sport and hopefully getting a little something back for doing so, looking forward to seeing some of you there! http://www.sandwizards.com/Main.htm

lewis swan at twister crankshaft will do you right... 503-663-7711 http://67.199.65.66/twistercrankshaft/

twister-x2 http://67.199.65.66/twistercrankshaft/

just an idea, but have you looked inside the cap to make sure you dont have an old spark plug top stuck in there thats not allowing you to get the cap snapped onto the plug properly? seen that a couple times before, top comes off of the plug and lodges into the cap but works fine untill you change plugs. then you end up with the old plug top lodged in the cap with a new plug with another top installed thats now in the way of the cap snapping on. it's worth a shot...

not to step on your "toes" but how exactly do you suppose you will spray starting fluid on a left side crank seal thats covered up by the flywheel? how about the right side crank seal thats washed in tranny fluid? i'm assuming from your reply that you must need a running engine to perform the type of test your recommending? well that would require that the flywheel be installed as well as the clutch cover. although some people might rely on a simple "starting fluid test" of the intake side of an engine most competent engine builders would rather do a leak down test to insure that all the seals in there engine are up to par before firing the engine up rather than risking a lean condition and smoking the engine because they "sprayed starting fluid" on the engine and nothing changed and assuming everything was ok then taking it on a ride... a leak down tests alot more than what can be discovered from simply spraying starting fluid on your engine, otherwise all engine builders would simply do this as opposed to purchasing all the equipment to perform these tests. if you think i'm being a dick it's because i am, your reply (to me at least) implys that the rest of us who do these tests to insure that the engines were building will run correctly are stupid and are missing something relatively simple and cheap that you have just informed us of. news flash! were not stupid! we've known about the spraying different things on your engine to find air leaks thing probably longer than you've been riding, the reason we dont rely on that is because it only shows the integrity of half of the seals in the engine... while your reply is welcome i believe it should be filed in the "epic fail" section simply because you havent done your homework on this topic but thanks for playing, it's given me something to go off about.... hope your having a wonderfull day...

what jet are you refering to exactly? if this is the one your talking about i pulled a couple from some spare stock carbs and they were 1.6's... hope this helps...

no rubber on the carb top would probably be your air leak. your leak down passed because a leak down test doesnt check for a seal of the rings or how intact the piston's are, , it's a test to show the integrity of the seals and gaskets that are in the intake and combustion area. as long as your head gaskets, base gaskets, intake gaskets and crank seals are all good everything in the middle wont effect your test. to check piston ring and just general piston condition you need to preform a compression test. you cant realy just do one test of the other as they kind of go hand in hand. if you have an in service engine then you generaly want to do a compression test followed by a leak down test. for a newly rebuilt engine you generaly want to do a leak down test while it's on the bench followed by a compression test once it's installed in the frame....

i run them on all of our banshees and love them, if you catch them at the right time you can get a deal on the not so perfect chrome ones. i got mine for like $30 a piece but i'm local...

dumb question but are you running the stock mikuni carbs and if so is the choke crossover tube installed between the carbs?

i'm a big fan of just getting rid of it but if you insist on keeping it you can do the under seat set up or you can do what i did for a buddy who insisted on keeping it, i bent up a piece of polished aluminum and re-located it to the right side inside of one of the holes in the tank shroud. aluminum bolted to the right side pipe mount and ran up under the tank shroud with a hole for the key... just an idea...

not to be a dick but if you do hill climbs and are thinking of going to a 18" tire your not thinking straight. with a 8" rim on a 20" tire you will increase your sidewall flex and hook harder out of the hole plus increase your top end a bit once the tire spins up and "balloons up"(like a drag slick) due to more sidewall flex, by dropping your tire size to a 18" you will effectively counter the positive effects of the 8" rims. if you ride flat ground then go with the 18's, if you ride anything else dont go under a 20 unless you like getting your bike un-stuck and fighting your way out of stuff. if there are any rut's where your riding you will hate the 18's. i know an inch of clearance doesnt sound like much but it's alot when you get on a trail... i've ran 18's before and got stuck everywhere i went. i'm perfectly happy with my 20/10/10's, i know i'd be happier with a set of 20/10/8's and even happier with a set of 22/10/8's but just havent pulled the trigger yet... it's all about less rotational mass and depending on what type of riding you do more ground clearance, lighter/smaller rims with taller tires/taller sidewalls=more ground clearance and more top end when they expand... just my inflamitory opinion though....

to do it "by the book" your going to need a bunch of crap like a clymer manual and.... for tear down... 10mm socket 12mm socket 17mm socket 24mm socket 32mm socket correct flywheel puller http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0026/ impact driver rubber mallet http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=39528 for re-assembly all the above minus the flywheel puller plus... inch pound torque wrench http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=2696 foot pound torque wrench http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=807 some three bond (i use 1104 but it got replaced by 1194) http://www.magicracing.com/ThreeBond-1194-Liquid-Gasket-Sealer-35oz_p_84.html some sort of clutch holding tool (i use a set of burnt clutches screwed to a set of steels with a penny jammed in the gears) 17mm wrench i know i'm forgetting something but thats a pretty good list of all the stuff you will need to have besides seals and a crank...

if you still have the tors installed then you will adjust the throttle with the large aluminum screws on the back of the tors units. if you have removed the tors then you should have some brass idle adjustment screws on the sides of the carbs that will raise and lower the carb slides that will adjust your idle speed. if you dont have the tors and dont have the idle screws installed then you will either have to install the screws (recomended) or just hillbilly it up by adjusting out the brass set screws on the carb tops. by doing this you wont have any freeplay in the throttle and it's not recomended but it works...