swrbansheeboy

from what i see you should be fine just slapping the gaskets on and torquing it home but if your realy worried you can put a light bead of yamabond on there between your case and base gasket. either way once it's all together do a leak down to make sure there are no leaks from your base gaskets...

actualy got to the shop today so i took a couple pics for you, hope these help... basicly the back shaft get's a big fork and a small fork and the front shaft is a big fork. your gears wont go in if there wrong. make sure you got the e-clips back on the shift fork shafts and that everything looked hunkey dorry while you had it apart and you should be money...

maybe this will help you out... inside (crank side) outside (flywheel side)

try swapping the plug wires from left to right and see if the problem switches sides. if not then it's not your coil/wires/caps... swap your plugs and if not then it's not the plugs. you said that you tried new carbs and reed's, did you make sure and sync the carbs when you swapped? did you verify that the slide on your right side carb was infact raising when you pushed the throttle? your right side cable could have came undone or broke where the two go into one. do a leakdown test. make sure your gas cap vent tube isn't kinked.

heres a link to our trip to st. a's... http://www.sandwizards.com/st%20anthony%202005.htm as far as paddles go i ran my 10 paddle extreems on my ported piped 350 and they did good...

the direct drive ones are raw finish for $334, if you want it polished it's $383. modquads are $419 but theres come polished and modquad does offer a 10% dicount for being an hq member so theres is $378 if your a member. so direct is $383 but a one piece cover with the reinforcement by the kicker, modquad is $378 for stock modified... tough choice, my buddie has a hundie hp cub with a modquad lock out and has no problems with it in the last year+ but direct has been making them for ever so it's a coin toss imo... i just like dealing with mike at mq cause he's a good dude and always donates to our yearly cleanup so it's a no-brainer who get's my money...

heres mine, i always put the springs on the outside....

i agree...

i guess it just depends on how small you wanna go. this is the craftsman set i got and the smallest size starts at the size of a pencil eraser...

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...UseBVCookie=Yes these things are the shit, i spent about 2 hr's driling out my lug nuts because someone i told they could borrow my paddles stripped the hell out of them. with these it would have taken me about 10 minuits... i got both sets from k-mart and at 20 bucks each they have been one of the best investments i have made around the shop in quite a little while...

there are cushions between the clutch basket and the gear but i dont remember any o-rings. are you sure your not looking at the o-rings that come stock between the clutch plates? if thats so then toss em, there just there to keep down the chatter in the clutch pack anyway...

i have tapped and installed zerk's on several carriers but as fire said the carrier bearings are a sealed design so the zerk is just a back up incase your seals go shithouse. if the seals go then having the housing pumped full of grease will just help that much more in the event of an inner bearing seal failure.....

i also do mine overnight. slap em in a gallon ziplock filled with your flavor trans oil and let em sit for a bit. i personaly have installed them basicly dry with a quick soak but prefer to let em sit overnight....

yea, if you can get to them to hack a slot in them with a dremel use a impact driver with a standard bit. if there so far gone you cant do this trick then just drill off the heads till you can remove the plate then use a set of vise grips to remove whats left of the screws...

more than likely its just because it sat so long and need's to be worked a bit to get the oil worked back between the plates. it could be that you have grooves worn into your clutch basket and there not allowing the clutches to spread when you pull the clutch lever but if it didnt do it when you parked it then it probly just needs to be worked a bit...

or you can remove the peg/shift lever and stator cover then tip the bike up on it's side and do the job to save your tranny oil...unless you need to change it anyway...

could be worse, they could have made off with a ready to ride bike... at least they had to fix the bitch to get any enjoyment out of it....

did you oil your k&n's before you installed your outerwears? if your filters are oiled and you are running outerwears you should be alright but as was mentioned if your riding style causes you to encounter large amounts of water and mud i'd put your air box back on. open element filters are good for occasional slashes but if your drenching your filters all the time you need some sort of splash guard. at least the stock box with no lid.

i guess all that matters is that he was happy with the results they gave him...everyone talks shit about every builder who isnt there builder, the bottom line is the end result and if your happy with it and in this case he was....

there a whore to install, you basicly stretch them out like a spring then walk them on... you'll figure it out or ef it up and get new a new one... of you could just use tie wire as a back up...

check then re-check then re-re-check all your grounds and make sure there all clean. and have you done anything ignition related like tors removal/removed all unused plugs from wiring/hacked out your ignition switch? all places to start looking but yea check the air gap on your flywheel too...

i think your right on the money, i always forget to think stock but now that you mention it the stock cable for the tors unit does have those big hurkin ends on it to go into the armature inside the tors unit....are the end's about as big as the end of a brake cable for a peddle bike?

twister...Phone: 503-663-7711 http://webforce.nwrain.net/founder/twistercrankshaft/

i run bel ray gearsaver 80/85 depending on what flavor the shop has but i was talking to louis at twister and he told me a story about a drag bike they were running redline shockproof in that has me thinking about changing religions...

we had a problem kind of similar to that on one of our bikes a couple years ago and it turned out to be the c shaped armature on the end of the shift shaft had busted in two. i would drain the oil and pull the clutch cover and inspect that first then start working your way down the money spiral. hope it's that easy for you...