swrbansheeboy

if you flip your cylinders upside down you will see a black rubber plug ( about 3/4" x 2 1/2") on the exhaust side between the bolt holes. the two black plugs on the top in this pic...

i found that a couple years back and have been breaking in my motors with that method every since with no problems ( at least break in related problems) since. just make sure to use a non synthetic oil when breaking in. my father in law broke in his two grandkid's brand new bikes on amsoil and ended up tearing them apart and starting over because they never sealed up due to to much lubrication. i usualy use golden spectro for break in...the old way works too and has been working for many many years so either way you should be good, but i can attest that the hard break in has worked for me with no problems. i always do 3 complete heat cycles, retorque then ride it how i'm gonna ride it. i dont abuse it, i just dont baby it...

pistons are capable of moving side to side and forward and backward and you will usualy have a very small amount of play ( i think 4 thousanths overbore from actual piston size at crown) around the piston but too much will end up with excessive piston slap in the bore and end up with a broken skirt on a piston. look at the skirt's on your pistons through the intake and exhaust and see if there all marred up. a little scuffing is ok but excessive wear marks and gouging is bad...you definatley want no up and down play in the crank and wrist pin bearings but if you have excessive play forward and backward it's only a matter of time till you bust a skirt...

sounds to me like you may have recieved the wrong throttle cable. the end's of your throttle cable should be about 3/16 inch round flat on the top and bottom lead slug's fixed to the end of your cable and should easily pass through the holes in the brass adjusters that thread into your new carb tops. i wanna say that kehin cables have even smaller ends so i couldnt even begin to guess what cable you have... if i remember tomarrow i will take a few pics down at the shop...if you havent figured it out yet that is...

what he said... :thumbsup:

what kind of stuff are you running on your bike? that will give everyone an idea if your half lean or half rich. if it's all stock maybe it has an air leak on one cylinder and they jetted one carb fat to compensate for it...either way your jetting should be both 200 or both 290 but it depends on if it's all stock or if it has pipes...

pipes, rejet carbs, k&n pod filter's and outerwears, mill the head and grind your stock timing plate out for a free timing advance(you can get up to 4 degrees moding the stock plate) that's the cheepest best stuff i can think of...

yes, what you have done and where your planning on going in the future have alot to do with what choice you'll make. unless you've already made up your mind on a pvl and are just looking for someone to make you feel better about your choice. imo for your general all around duner i'd stay stock. if you want to be able to mess with your timing go dyna and if you wanna get realy hardcore go pvl. without knowing what kind of set up your running it's hard to say what to go with but if you think you need something rowdy i'd check out planetsand and ask some of the guy's there what there running and all the pro's and cons. i know pvl's can be a pain in the ass...

what did you get fixed? any chance it had an air leak before it got fixed so it was jetted way rich to compensate and now it's been fixed so it's running hella fat unless you dump the air to it? what set up do you have and what jet's are you running with it? you said the carb's were cleaned and adjusted so what way were they adjusted?

um, i'f i'm readin ya right your trying to do it wrong. unscrew the carb top, remove the slide/ carb top assembly, compress the spring as tight as you can get it, turn everything upside down and if the little gold colored metal keeper doesnt fall out in your hand then jiggle the throttle cable till it does. reverse to re-install... kehin's are alot easyer...

your timing is jacked, either your flywheel is not aligned with the key on the crankshaft or your pickup is severely off...

what carb's are you running, if stock is the choke tube plugged in? that'll make you overheat and run like ass....

yea, if you have a hose outfit local to you go ask them if they carry silicone hose. you can probably buy a foot of it for what cascade will charge you for 4 inches of the stuff... and if your melting them check your jetting, it may be a little on the lean side...

be more specific, did the nut on the drive gear come off and blow a hole in your side case or did the nut stay on and the crank shifted and blew the hole in the case? if it was the nut i would have to ask who torqued it and the flywheel nut down and was it done right? if the crank shifted in the cases you have a huge problem, the crank bearings have tab's and peen mark's that have to be aligned into relief's in the cases that keep them lined up and keep them from spinning in the cases as well as grooves so the bearing's cant walk side to side. i've been around a couple cranks with realy bad bearings that vibrated pretty good and never seen one that loosened the flywheel and drive gear nut's off the crank...actualy i did a motor that had a rod broken in half and everything was intact so it's kinda weird that your backing off the nut's on the crank....

i suggest looking into your jetting, throwing more oil at it isnt going to take care of a lean condition. more oil will lube the hell out of your crank bearings but your putting less fuel into your cylinders. unless your burning up crank bearing's i wouldnt be concerned with throwing more oil at it, i'd be taking a hard look at my jetting. mix 32:1 and start re-jetting. but to answer your fuel/oil ratio question... http://www.spectro-oils.com/fuel%20ratio%20chart.htm http://www.klotzlube.com/tech/ratio_chart.pdf

that is a very odd problem, your obviously building up pressure in your fuel tank and the only thing i could come up with that would even come close to making sense because you've swapped caps would be that you have a broken reed and instead of blowing back out of the air filters it's building pressure in the carbs and back flowing into the tank through the petcock but that makes no sense either cause the way i see it you'd be dumping fuel from the overflows like mad before it started blowing out of the vent tube on your gas cap. if the vent is working on your cap it should keep any pressure from building up in your tank and since you can see fuel flowing from your vent it would stand to reason that the vents at least open...wierd...

louis at twister is always my #1 pick when it comes to porting or machinework period but he's located down here in little old boring oregon. up in your neck of the wood's i'd say dan at patriot. he's kinda hard to get ahold of now days but it's well worth the wait. i know several people with his work and it's all been top notch...

what you want to do is start a pissing match between everyone who run's amsoil and everyone who doesn' because thats how this question always end's up going... i wont tell you the best oil to run but i will tell you a story. my buddie used to have a 250r and for about 3 years i watched him mix his fuel with 10/40 penzoil or whatever he could get his hands on and that bike ran pretty damn good untill the day he forgot to mix his gas and ran it lean and sold it, so that being said i'd say any oil you get will do the job...

also make sure you have good flow from your petcock and make sure the vent tube on your gas cap isnt kinked or plugged... and even though those pwk's are kick ass carb's i know the set i have on our one shee still have a tube that connects the two(front left upper side of the intake) even though they both have chokes...

we have a bike that run's 165 compression and 50/50 has worked great in it for about 4 years now. we mix sunoco 110 and 92...

do a leak down test. you could have a blown seal on the wet side of your crank and it's letting pressure into the transmission and clutch area.the vent at the back of the case is so high that i cant see it being the culprit. i'd focus on the vent tube at the front of the clutch cover. if you didnt overfill it then i cant think of any other reason it would be pushing oil out of the vent tube. bad ring's will usualy blow-by back into the crank area so it would have to be that crank seal or a bad seal between the crankcase area and the tranny... or something to that effect. i'd still do a leak down test.

if you look on the head at the rear on the center there is a hose that runs down between your intakes. if you follow that hose it clamps on to a aluminum fitting about an inch to the right of your thumb in the first pic. that fitting goes through the case and is held in place with a steel ring that fits in a groove with another groove that has an o-ring on it (when you pull your side cover off you will see it) the fitting goes into a hole in your clutch cover allowing your coolant to flow through a passage in the clutch cover to your water pump impeller then out through the hose on the front of the clutch cover part #15 http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/partimage.gifx?d=12503,3,0 goes into the hole next to where bolt #11 goes through the clutch cover http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/partimage.gifx?d=12513,2,0

well dont feel like a dumbass cause i'd bet that almost everyone who has ever taken there carbs off has done that at least once so it's just a sign your learning like the rest of us :thumbsup: i'm just glad to hear it was an easy/no cash fix. now go kick it in the ass and tell us how she's running :beer:

no problem, dont thank me till the problems solved. i just wish i had a pic to show you the tube...i keep meaning to take a pic but space it out when i'm down at the shop...comes up every once in a while...

normaly there is a vent on the rear of the case under the rear motor mount. it should be connected to a t that is also connected to the vent tube from your clutch case with a tube connected to those that runs up under the gas tank to the top of the stearing stem and back down the frame. if the vents are connected right and un-obstructed then you should check your kick starter and shift shaft seals. change your oil then do some dry riding somwhere. if you havent went through any water and your new oil is still milky white( not half milky because you will still have residual milky oil in the case even after you change your oil) then i'd concentrate on water pump impeller seals and the 0-ring that's on the pass through tube between the clutch cover and case. if it were me i would pull the clutch cover and replace the impeller shaft seal, o-ring on the pass through and the kick starter shaft seal. it might cost you $50 but it will rule out %80 of the crap that would be the problem....also while it's apart i'd inspect the impeller shaft to make sure it's smooth and has no grooves in it. also make sure the impeller itself look's good as well as the crappy plastic drive gear. make sure the slots that the pin set in show no signs of stripping.