swrbansheeboy

your only planning on running one pair of lights right? if your trying to run two pair or all three sets then your going to tax your stator out and wind up burning something up...

pretty much any ratio you decide to run is fine (within reason, you cant run 100-1 with anything but amsoil dominator) as long as your jetting is dialed in for it. just remember that oil rich=fuel lean, the richer your mixture the less fuel your throwing in your engine which can create a lean condition. if your jetted for 50-1 and switch to 32-1 you should jet up to provide more fuel to your engine...

are you still running the tors on your bike? if so then you should be able to pull the other side and find a bolt the same length and thread pitch that will work. it wont have the huge head on it but it should work as long as the rest of the specs are the same. if you are refering to the brass screws for the tors eliminator kit then you need to get them from a bike shop. i'm sure you can probably find them somewhere else but it will take you forever to locate a supplier and you'll pay almost as much as just buying the screws from a shop. i think the last set i bought was like $12. you'll waste at least that much energy calling around trying to find them... motion pro sells just the screws and set nuts. cascade has them here. ten bucks for two assuming thats what you need... http://67.199.65.66/cascade_innovations/ne...ore_dept_id=151

if your testing for max compression then it's best if it's done with a warm motor. if your just testing for variation between cylinders then it doesnt matter....

not to be captain obvious here but.... have you even attempted to adjust your clutch? usualy before asking if your clutches are bad you would have made a post similar to "my clutch was slipping so i adjusted it by doing (blah-blah-blah)and still no luck, still slipping like a bitch. i'm not sure i adjusted it correctly so if anyone has any ideas on how i might have done it wrong let me know but im thinking my clutch might be shithouse..." going off the information you've provided i'd say try adjusting your clutch and see if your problem gets better. if not then you probably need to replace your clutch... if your looking for someone here to show up on your doorstep and troubleshoot your problem then i doubt it will happen but you can always dream.... most here are willing to help those that are willing to help themselves, try adjusting your clutch then come back here if it doesnt work....

first off, when refering to parts of the bike it's the same as cars. everything is refered to from the standpoint of the rider/driver. the left side crank seal would be the dry side/ flywheel seal. the right side/wet side crank seal should be installed with the tips/nubs/ non solid edge facing inward or twords the crankshaft... left side is a flywheel/air seal, right side is a output shaft/oil seal... are you refering to the small (flywheel side) or large (clutch side) crank seal?

the trick i learned a long time ago is if you have an old set of clutches take one of the steels and one of the fibers and screw them together. it makes a cheep clutch hub holder tool. insert the tool into the clutch basket and inner hub then either hold the clutch basket with your hand (a gloved hand is best) or jam a penny between the drive gears on the basket and crank... i've also stuffed a rag in between the inner and outer hub/ put on a good thick glove and held the inner hub while i took a rattle gun to the inner hub nut... just dont try and put anything between the fingers on the basket and the inner hub, it's a sure fire way to bust a finger off of the clutch basket... good luck...

just to clairify, i wasnt trying to come off like a dick... i've done the "chop the head off a bolt" trick to get my bike going again but it's only been when i sheered the bolt off at the beginning of a trip and after all the local shops failed to have the part in stock i was looking at either sitting in camp drinking for 2+ days or redneck it up to keep riding. under those circumstances it's perfectly acceptable to do that trick but once you get back to civilization you need to get the correct part. and dont loctite it in! lol

yep, work your way down from the easy stuff to the hard stuff... do a compression test, if it looks good then do a leak down test. that will tell you if it's a leaky seal...

yes, an impact driver is very important when removing most philips head screws on the shee... also, the "heat the bearing, freeze the case" thing is wrong... heat makes things expand, cold makes things contract. if your trying to do this trick to install the new impeller bearing you would need to freeze the bearing and heat up the clutch cover. i personaly have never had to freeze/heat anything to do this, just tap out the old bearing and tap the new one in. the trick is tapping in the new seal, just make sure it's squared up when you drive it in...

i say weld it up, just make sure you do a good job cleaning everything up and get some good welds on it. also, make sure to unlock at least one of your hubs when your on asphault or anything that will cause your tires to bite... detroits are great but expensive, arb's are even better but even more plus there air actuated. if you ever find yourself in a deep pit with alot of roots/sticks and crap you can rip off an air line and leave you with an open diff. if you can find one a cable locker is the way to go but they still have problems.... a lincoln locker is pretty reliable if used properly and it only costs you the oil in the housing, some carb cleaner and a little welding rod/wire... oh, and the gear set your welding up...lol

what format you looking for, mp3?

the notches on the shafts where the e-clips fit on are on the stator side of the engine. as the pictures show the opposite end of the shafts are held in by washer on the shift shaft adjuster and the shift drum retainer plate....

make a stupid reply and you can expect a stupid response. you can call me anything you want and use all the profanity you feel you need to justify your bs but you said it best... call me a dickhead, thats fine... at least i'm not a guy who's owned my shee for 2 months and thinks i've been around the block enough to know it all just because i can start my bike by myself... blaster, while the thought of your post is appreciated most guys on here are past the "moving up from a blaster" stage and have plenty of experiance with oils and have already figured out what works and what does'nt. your heart is in the right place but most of us have already gone through all the downfalls that go with running sub-standard oils and therefore know what works for our set up. thank you for the info anyway. as for your builder and what he has to say about the advice you get from the experianced people on this site, i know alot of the people here have very fast bikes and do alot of the work themselves. alot of the guys on here can tear a banshee down and re-assemble it in there sleep, they can troubleshoot many problems over the internet (which is a very difficult task when you dont have a bike in front of you) and generaly just have alot of knowledge you cant find anywhere else. so i guess i have to ask, is your mechanic capable of doing these things? does your mechanic even own a banshee? if the answer to these questions is no then rather than coming on here stating how your mechanic said these guys were wrong and questioning the information you recieve from the people here maybe you should start looking more closely at your mechanics credentials. from the sounds of it he's the one you should be questioning instead of everyone here... if 500 people on the internet say "yes, do it" and your mechanic is the only one saying "no dont" then i'd have to question his opinion... i understand your kind of stuck with what you have available but when you come on here telling everyone your mechanic say's everyone on here is wrong, then you make it sound like your actualy questioning the people here trying to help you out it doesnt give the people here much incentive to keep giving you advice...

i'm assuming you are refering to the small o-ring in this schematic under item #7? i agree with loco, you realy need to take some time to word your questions so the rest of us can understand them. had you posted "i have a question, my rear brake was leaking fluid so i got the seal kit from the dealer to fix it but it comes with three seals. i have no clue where the little one goes so can someone help me figure out where it goes? thanks in advance guys..." i would have understood what you were asking right away instead of re-reading your question 5 times trying to understand what you were asking. are you refering to the small o-ring in the schematic?

yes it's supposed to move the shift shaft up and down, thats the purpose of the eccentric (offset) shaft. thats why it's not advised to build your own, unless you can buy the correct bolt then cut the head off and press the top off axis by about 3/16 then it wont work properly. it's yamaha part # 345028-001 and it's only $8, even if you have to get the screw/nut and washer your only into it about $13 so just get the right parts. you'll spend at least that much effort trying to make one thats half the quality. also, you dont have to and shouldnt loctite the screw, thats the whole reason for the locknut and washer. once you get the screw where it needs to be you tighten the locknut then bend the tab over on the washer, they are there to keep the screw from backing out.... if you loctite it in then it shears off again you wont be able to get it out unless you drill it/heat it up and use an easy out on it. by just using the locknut if it shears again then you just use a pick or something to spin whats left of the shaft out then re-install the new parts again.... i'm assuming what was left of the old one was easy to remove? if you loctited that new thing you made in then shear it off it wont be so easy to get out next time. i'd highly recommend that you pull it out, clean all the crap out of the threads then re-install the proper parts...

32mm or 1 1/4, they both work fine.... get whatever is cheapest...lol

does it do it cold or after the bike warms up? if after try repacking your silencers...

stock cdi's usualy work or they dont. i'd tell you to swap a cdi from another bike into yours if your questioning it but from the sounds of it you've already put new pistons in so it's kind of a moot point now...

just because i'm not drinking the koolaid there feeding all you amsoil guys doesnt mean you need to act like a cocksucker, i already said you can run whatever oil you want. no need to be a dick because i'm not in your "cult"....

yea, its a different cable....

this topic is as bad as what oil to mix your fuel with. everyone has there preferance of case oil and imo everyone is right, i've ran everything from name brand oils (bel ray, maxima, honda, dumonde tech) to not so name brand (atf, hyster hydraulic fluid) and all have worked for me. right now i'm running redline shockproof because of a little story my builder told me, it just happens to be my flavor for the time being. is it the best case oil? probably not, but it is working fine for me. just as all the other brands/atf's and regular motor oils are working for everyone else here. to me the bottom line is that the best case oil is the one thats working for you and keeps you from smoking your clutch & tranny, if your not breaking anything then the oil your using is just fine so theres no need to worry about what anyone else is running because your bikes doing great with whatever your running... i'm just suprised nobody's come in here pushing amsoil yet...lmao

smack it on the spindle where the ball joint mounts... like 2001 said, just pull up on the upper or push down on the lower and smack it with a hammer a couple times. dont wail on it so your denting it up realy bad, just a couple good whacks while holding pressure against it and it should pop right out. just dont whack the threads, i let a buddie of mine take my chrome front end apart once... lets just say that to keep from buying a new upper and lower for one side and paying to have it all chromed again i ended up welding the castle nuts on...

my guess would be that somebody did a diy tors bypass. not to be a dick makenzie but if you dont own/want to spend the cash on a proper flywheel puller then you have no buisiness working on other peoples bikes. i do all the builds for mine and my friends bikes and i own all the tools (flywheel puller,leakdown tester,clutch holder, so on-so forth) needed to do the job right. i'm not a master mechanic and i'm sure not trying to make a buck but i own all the tools to get it done right. if your actualy doing work for people and turning a profit then i find it hard to believe you cant pony up the $25 for a correct flywheel puller. to top it off you said you sealed those cases with "high temp silicone" !?!? cmon dude, you do know about threebond dont you? it's like $10 a tube and does like 10 motors... i may have you pegged all wrong and maybe your on here trying to learn how to do it right but if your not willing to buy the right tools (after several people told you not to try and do it the wrong way but you did anyway) or use the correct sealant (theres a reason yamaha didn't use rtv from the factory) you just come off as a hack... the whole reason all these guys get on here to answer your questions is to give you the knowledge you need to not be a hack, there here to help you be a competent engine builder so when you blatantly go against the advice everyone has given you then you just wind up looking like a hillbilly.... buy a proper flywheel removal tool and buy some threebond 1104 before you work on any more banshee engines, actualy any atv engines for that matter... and you wonder why your customers engine wont run right...

with iso hunt and bit torrent the worlds your oyster as long as it's used to aquire things legaly... :happy: