swrbansheeboy

i've read this entire thread now and honestly i feel cheeted out of an hour i could have spent doing something else more productive but since i've wasted that much of my time why not waste some of yours.... it was stated by someone (i'm too lazy to go back) that "this is what started it as i see it" and i have to dissagree. this post was made... fine and dandy, just one guy posting his opinion. to bad it was followed up by this... basicly saying "hey, i dont give a fuck what you think or what your opinion is about your set up that works for you. your a dumbass for buying a cub since you are doing something other than what i think you should be doing even though it's working for you" wiz and booker exchange several posts then the rest of the "hq posse" jump in to bash the new guy because he doesnt share the same views as those with 50,000 post's. you guys can say what you want about what started this whole bitch fest but it probably would have been a little different had this... been substituted for this... could have added something such as "i've ran the t5's and had no luck with them, they seem to fall off on the top when i want the power to come on and thats where i find the cpi/shearer to preform better" blah blah blah and so on but no, it was much easier to take the low road and be a condecending/ opinionated asshole. way to set the bar there "banshee hq premium proud member" i think 8 of the 10 pages here could have been avoided if the people who "think" they know something quit trying to force the ones who dissagree with there way of thinking to see things the way they "think" others should see them.... this pretty much summed it up for me. from the man so many on here know and respect for how knowledgable he is... you've seen videos so you understand? dude, i've seen videos of asphalt drags but i dont understand what it's like to dump the clutch on a stretched rigid with a 120 hp engine and 8 foot wheelie bar. i've seen videos of nhra drags but i dont understand what it's like to pull the trigger on a 7 second quarter mile monster. i've seen videos with 4 chicks on one guy but dont understand what it's like to be with less than 6 chicks...lmao to me the bottom line is theres a lot of jibber-jabber goin on here and unless you own/have owned a cub and ran multiple pipe set ups on it then your opinion is null and void. unless you have actualy ridden where the referance is made then stfu. i dont care how many videos you've watched on youtube of treeshots on the oregon dunes, unless you've actualy ridden there (especialy with the set up's in question) you cant relate so dont try and compare your riding area to another one. regardless if you live in hicktown u.s.a. back east and you guys have 200 square feet of sand with a jump smack dab in the middle of it that you can catch 2 feet of air on you do not I REPEAT DO NOT know what is out here on the left coast just as much as most of us have no idea what type of riding you right coasters have.... if your just making a post based on "what you read" or "what you heard" then do everyone a favor and say you have no fucking idea what your talking about. you have no actual knowledge of how it's set up or how it runs. what was done to it or what problems it's had. unless your capable of answering in depth questions about the set up thats the same as the one in topic at hand then you have no buisiness posting anything other than your "opinion" because you dont know shit about it other than "you heard from this guy one time about his sisters boyfriends bike that did ......" to get somewhat back on topic... the question was since smuttdawg apparently doesn't care what the answer was then i guess this thread is strictly for pounding your chest and bitching about the new guy's opinion now..... fwiw, i would much rather have a choked down (or as you guy's who know everything would say "neutered,castrated,less-of-a-man and any other drivitive of something less than manly") cub engine thats capable of making 100 hp any time i choose to take the "restrictive" pipes off and let the beast breath than a stock cylinder bike that will be lucky to make 80 hp on it's best day for the same amount of cash. ( dont let em fool ya kids, pick your favorite flavor of engine builder and get a quote for a stock cylinder stroker motor making a certified 80 hp. v.s. a cub making 80 out of the box. you'll be suprised how close they are...) oh, and p.s.... DYNO NUMBERS ARE BULLSHIT!!!! no dyno is the same, unless you see two bikes run back to back on the same dyno with no changes to the settings then it's all bullshit and not acurate. there is no industry standard for dyno set up so you are basing your opinion on the parameters set by the guy running the software on the dyno. unless all the setting's for the run are posted so you can compare tire sizes and whatnot then you have no idea if your comparing apples to apples or apples to oranges. dyno numbers are generaly just a tool for guys to beat there chest and a. try and say there bike is better than yours or b. used as tool to try and prove that there way of thinking is correct (as in this thread) unless said person actualy shows up and does that 300 foot pass or pulls out of that treeshot then it's all just window dressing. i have a little stock stroke ported 350 bike but i could photoshop you a dyno sheet that shows it making 180 hp at 4500 rpm if i wanted to... not saying anyones dyno sheets are b.s. just saying the proof is in the pudding so to speak... oh, and p.p.s... go back and look at the sigs of all these guys saying cpi/shearer pipes are the only pipes to run on a cub. then think about what kind of riding you do. if your bike resembles the ones provided in there sigs then you might take there advice, otherwise you might just broaden your horizons....

i agree, pull your air filters and make sure the cutaways on the slides face the rear of the carbs. if there backwards it wont get any air on idle and will be a whore to start...

http://www.parkeryamaha.com/browseproducts...uid-Gasket.HTML

are these the same friends that told you to mix your fuel 1:1? lol if you were running your bike for any amount of time at a 1:1 ratio then you more than likely have loaded the silencers with oil and if thats the case you either need to repack them or just live with it smoking like a freight-train for a while. my math is probably wrong but i'm coming up with .78125 liters of oil to 25 liters of gas to get a 32:1 ratio for 25 liters of fuel. now how many oz .78125 liters is your gonna have to look up because the batteries are dead in my high zoot ti calculator that does the conversions and i'm too lazy to figure the rest out...double check it even though i think thats right...

imo it all depends on how much power you want to end up with, if your trying to end up with a 75-100 hp bike then a cub is money well spent. you can do it the conventional way and end up with half the horse power you get from the same money you'd spend on a cub set up thats basicly bolt in/on...

swap your plug wires and see if it changes sides. if not then swap your plugs. if still no change and everything ran fine before the carb swap then it is probably something in the carb...

so is it blubbering and trying to fall on it's face or does it just act like theres no power there untill you hit the higher rpms? and have you tried doing a leak down test yet? since it's your bottom end have you tried swapping to a new set of plugs and doing a couple passes only using the first 1/4 throttle to see how it's burning?

just depends on where i get it, usualy between $30 and $40 a gallon for klotz r-50.

yes, if you dont put new stuff in there it's just a matter of time before the long rod welds itself to the ball thats already welded to the adjuster. as said before, if you can find one it's a realy good idea to put a pancake bearing adjuster in there. it has a flat bearing that replaces the large part of the adjuster so it will spin against the pressure plate rather than stick to it and rotate with it. thats a realy bad description of what it does but when you see one it will all make sense... i think there like $35, a stock adjuster is probably at least that...

so it snapped off at the cases or you still have the 1/2 inch or so of unthreaded stud sticking up? if theres anything still sticking out you may still have a chance...

my biggest bitch about the banshee is we got several of em and to take two of em to the beach for the weekend it cost around $100-$150 in gas and mix depending on how hard we ride...

place a chunk of wood on the piston crown then wail on it with a big ass hammer, dont pound directly on the piston because you could slip and hit the cylinder wall! if it's still within salvagable spec's i'd hate to see you beat on it and ruin it. just because your piston and crank are hammered doesnt mean that your cylinder should be also...

basicly reed's are a one way valve that lets fuel into the crankcase while the piston is on the upstroke and seals when the piston is on the downstroke keeping the fuel mixture from going back out the carbs. the more open area your reed cages have the more fuel mixture is allowed into the crankcase, the more flexible your reed's are the more they will open allowing more fuel mixture into the case. basicly the upstroke/ intake stroke happens so fast on a shee the more free flowing you can make the intake (bigger reed cage openings, more flexible reeds) the more fuel you can stuff into the engine in that small window that the piston is on the upstroke. but by the same token your also sucking more air which is why you usualy have to lean your jetting with v-force reeds. bottom line is more fuel & air=more power. as long as you have the pipes to expell the burnt fuel & air you cant go wrong with better reeds...

splitting the cases is pretty easy as long as you take your time. if you look at the front and rear of the cases where they mate you will see a couple spots that "overhang" that are safe to smak with a rubber hammer without damaging the mating surfaces. never use a screwdiver or anything to pound between the cases and pry them apart! pull all 16 bolts (8 on the top and 8 on the bottom. there numbered 1-16) make sure you pull the keeper behind the clutch basket with the two phillips head screws (use an impact driver) that hold the upper and lower case halves together then just whack away at the overhangs on the front and rear of the cases untill it starts to split then just pull the upper half off... it's very intimidating the first time you do it but after you do one it's a walk in the park. just make sure to pull everything ( flywheel, clutch basket, kicker gear, drive gear, clutch arm and whatnot) for the first time, as you get better you will learn what you can leave on depending on what your trying to work on. make sure you have a clymer handy to refer to incase you have any quesions but i doubt you will need it once you get into it... good luck even thought i'm sure you will do fine :biggrin:

get a set of these... http://reviews.sears.com/2328/00952160000/reviews.htm as for a replacement you can go to the stealership or your local hardware store with another nut and get a new one...

if you pull the clutch and blip the throttle does it seem to raise with the engine rpm?

you can always mod your stocker and see if it's all it's cracked up to be. flywheel puller, 10 mill socket, a dremel and a steady hand will get you 4 degrees...dont forget the race gas just for good measure. better to start high and work your way back down than to detonate and blow it up...

if you have your heart set on blowing your cash on one of these two items i'd go with the coil. that is unless you feel the need to alter your ignition curve and what not, but as was stated already i think you could spend that cash on something else that will get you better gains than a cdi or coil. if your doing alot of racing and need to talor your timing more than advancing it at the flywheel then get a cdi, if you feel your not getting enough spark then get the coil set up. otherwise save your money or get a cool head with smaller domes and some race gas. a port job is always good as are aftermarket carbs...

i know i wouldnt buy a cylinder that looked like that...

not trying to be an ass or anything but i think you mean a cub motor not a cup...

do a leakdown test. i have a shee in my shop right now that will fire up first kick but after abaout 10 seconds it will bog out and die. after it sits for a couple it will fire back up and 10 seconds it dies again. pulled the stator cover and when it dies it will puff smoke from behind the flywheel so i'm thinkin its the crank seal or wiring on the stator but i'm leaning twords the crank seal. i'd do a leak down anyway just to cover your bases...

i think your missing the whole point of snopcyzinski's post. generaly your either one of two types of people... your either the mechanical kind of guy who looks at something, gets an idea and a vision of how it's going to work then dives in and only asks questions when he runs into a brick wall, or your the kind of guy who has an idea of what he thinks would be cool then ask's a bunch of questions and either never fallows up on the project or tries to do it and fuck's it up regardless of how much info he gathers because he just doesnt have a mechanical nature. nothing against the later because it takes all kinds but something tells me that 504 is that later type of guy since most welder in hand type guys would ask "has anyone ever swaped a ninja motor into there shee and how much of a whore is it?" plus he types in all caps and that leads me to believe that he's a 15 year old kid with big dreams and a keyboard... as for swapping out your shee engine to a ninja motor first pull your shee engine, next loosley fit your ninja motor in your frame and start looking for things that wont work, start coming up with solutions to the thing's that wont work. if your ninja motor wont fit in your frame in the stock location of your shee motor then you need to figure out how to cut your frame and expand the engine area so your engine will fit and the frame will hold together safely. i could go on but either you get it or you dont. pull your motor and then try and fit the new engine in the frame, either it will all come together or you will bolt your engine back in and forget it. good luck

yea, there a molded tire so they will last a long time but there preformance sucks. if you want a molded tire that will last forever get gbc paddle masters. there hella cheep on rocky mountain and they have huge paddles. if you want a tire that will hook up and get you out of stuff then go with haulers. some guys will talk trash about them but it's usualy because they have never wanted to drop the cash to get a set. you will hear that they dont turn as good as a v-cut paddle but once you run a set and get the feel for them you'll be able to go anywhere with them. you can get the geckos but you'll find that even if you run them with 0 air pressure they still dont like to hook up. and just so you dont think i'm blowin smoke we bought one of the first sets available when they came out and ran em on a piped shee. i let all the air out of them and they still hooked less than my worn out 8 paddle haulers. the hard casing of the tire doesnt allow them to flatten like a buffed hauler so they float. just this weekend i watched a dude on a yfz450 stop half way up saunders hill here at spinreel and try and take off with geckos. he ended up burying the bike then getting off to unstick it. then rolling all the way to the bottom to get a run at it just so he could get to the top. they f-n suck is the bottom line...

if you look at the specs on skat traks web site the haulers and extreems have the exact same cup heights so all it comes down to is if you need the stiffer material. i personaly dont drag my bike but i went with the extreems anyway because i have to ride through paved areas alot to get to the sand and they wear alot less than the regular haulers. i'd get the extreems just because there more durable...

so whats the problem? i dont see anything a little j.b. weld wont cure...lmao