rubberneck

I agree, i run the modded shift star with a shift pro detent arm, but the stock spring, it felt too soft with the modded star and the soft spring.

pistons and cylinders i coat in ATF. Helps seat rings faster. bottom end i use generous amounts of 2 stroke oil, whatever i might be mixing at the time

congrats to all the winners.

I just put together a 350 and the squish came out at .053. Jeff told me to run it as is and add a degree of timing. Runs good. Also, you didn't state elevation, but with 21 cc domes, im not sure you will be able to run pump gas on a 4mil motor. Check it before you run it for sure to make sure.

what elevation are you at? 16 cc domes are tiny. I just checked the compression on my 350 with 19cc domes, and it is kicking 180 psi at sea level. You might need bigger domes. I would think 16 cc domes would only be ok at high elevation or maybe methanol.

nope that aint it either. Just got a hot rods crank from kevin and it wasnt welded from the factory, he had to weld it. The pamphlet that was in the box said "wiseco and hotrods 2 great companies under 1 roof." So i have a feeling they are same with diff labels, but again i have no proof

threebond or yamabond will work fine, thats what i sealed the plugs in the bottom of my cub with

Allright, this is my 2 cents. It sounds like you want a bike that can still be very trail friendly and have enough pop to pick on the occasional 4 poke. I just put together a 350. The cylinders were ported by Jeff at FAST and he did a play/dune port on them. I am running +5 timing, 180 psi compression and STOCK carbs with T5s, it runs great. It is going to take a lot of 450 to outrun it in a drag race, but the powerband is just about like stock, just a lot more of it. You dont need bigger carbs to get where you want to be IMHO. Before you go buying new pipes Id call and talk with Jeff, i bet you dont even need the new pipes. I imagine he can port it to make those T6s work great.

No not really, porting a 2 stroke is about changing the size and timing of the ports. I dont know your buddy, never seen his work, so no way for me to really comment. If he has built others, like yours maybe you could ask to ride one and see if his porting works for you. Porting can do wonderfull things for you, it can also ruin your cylinders and destroy the rideability if done wrong.

I would get a mild play port from your builder of choice and run it. You will be happy. For play riding the quality of the power is more important than the quantity of the power if that makes sense

i have 2 sets of white knuckles and so far they are tight as a frogs ass

trinity stage 4s clear, my buddy runs them.

NGK plugs get colder as number gets larger ie. b8es hotter than b9es

FYI, I would have the crank welded at ANY horsepower level. I have had 2 of them separate on piped bikes. I wish you could ride the little 350 i just put together with FAST play port. If you are telling me your bike put down 49 with pipes, mine is easily 65. Im not into dynos and the bike will never see one, but i guarantee this thing will embarass any piped shee and most of your run of the mill 4 pokes. It is a blast to ride. Great power everywhere and smooth. As said earlier, pass on your buddies offer, call up Jeff at FAST or kevin at HJR, or any of the builders that sponsor here. Tell them what you want to do and they will tell you how to get there. But trust me bigger isn't always better.

i have RZ forks and drum in one of my bikes. Cant say it shift a lot smoother, but if you do all the other mods, then they shift pretty damn good. I have modded shift shaft, modded shift star, shift pro arm, but stock spring and the RZ stuff

let me give you a little advice from my past experience. Dont fall for the more is better when it comes to motor. I have a421 cub with all the bells and wistles and basically it sucked as a dune bike. Was it fast hell yeah, but for general duning which includes some tight stuff and tree shots in oregon, it sucked.. That bike will now be drag only. I just put together a little 350 dune/play port from jeff at FAST and the bike is a damn blast. You do not need shearers or cpis if your goal is to have a fun dune bike that can beat most 450s and 700s in the occasional drag race. My bike has toomey t5s, Jeffs play port, +5 timing and 180 compression(requires race gas) along with stock carbs, and it is a runner. It surprises the hell out of everybody that has ridden it so far. The power is extremely linear and has great pull all the way around.

Easily. LOL I think we all said that at one time

I cant argue with any of this , dajo nailed it. I would add despite the fact that it just got a topend, i would tear the whole thing down and have th crank trued and welded. I have had 2 separate now. 1 of them came apart and took out a bunch of crap with it, the other i just caught on rebuild before it grenaded luckily. I would also do a modded shift star, good clutch with pancake bearing and a billet basket.

I buy most all of my consumables and riding gear etc. from RMATV. I buy performance parts from site sponsors, and all my Yamaha OEM parts from cascade. About the only thing i always buy local is Helmets.

should have o-ringed it while you were in there. That way you wouldn't have to run around so boost challenged. I know guys swear by overtorquing the stockers all the time. I didn't have luck with that. In my experience, they just stretch back to stock settings.

what year bike do you have? some of the early bikes used 4 bolt sprocket hubs. All the later bikes had 6. Maybe somebody switched yours?

OH SNAP

IM not sure man maybe. I replaced the intakes that were on my 4 mil because even with the drain nut on the left carb ground flush it still hit the clutch arm. They were pro design intakes i believe not sure. You might, but im sure somebody on here will chime in today that has the upp intakes

Get yourself some white knuckle intakes, and you will not have leak problems or need any spacers to clear the clutch arm. I run them on my 39s with billet bowls and have no clearance issues. I just ordered them to replace my current intakes on my 4 mil dune bike with 34 pjs

wrong wrong wrong, it wont do shit for jetting at any temp. I would like for you to explain to me how it does. And yes i have a bike with one before you ask. I would also like an explanation as to how fuel atomizes differently because of formulation.