rubberneck

Bakersfieldturbo, that is not an uncommon problem. There is supposed to be an aluminum plug epoxied in there. Cascade i know sells them, and im sure Jeff at FAST could get you one or if you have a buddy who is a machinist 5 min on the lathe and you are good. That is the bore that the shift fork rail rides in. tip the bike up on its right side so not oil runs back in and clean that hole really well. Put the new plug in and smear a little epoxy over it. After its dry you are done.

Awesome thanks snop. I am going to have to tinker more. Sounds like i may be doing a custom program. Ill see how i like the motor in the sand next week. Do some fine tuning

Snop, if I am correct all the curves end up back down at the same point in the upper rpms correct. I dont have the paperwork in front of me right now, but it seems that was what i remember. It is just differences in how long they maintain the initial advance right? I think the thing that baffled me was that using curve 1 2 or 3 and the plate at +2 i should have less advance in the higher rpms than i did with the stock curve and +6 right. I figured this would do nothing but help on top with the shearers and the extra rpm. I figured the # 3 curve would help keep some of the mid that i would lose with the shearers. Anyway, i played with it a lot today, and i think i have it running pretty strong. Part of the problem honestly i think is me. The last time i rode this particular bike it had my 421 cub in it, and that thing just never ran out of steam. I think it is just different caracteristics of the motors. This motor has better mid range and less on top where as the damn cub just never stops. Looking forward to getting it in the sand next week, i think this will be a better dune motor than the cub. thanks for the info.

Ok, i am hoping that some of you guys have spent some time playing with a dyna fs ignition. I made the cardinal mistake of changing 2 things at once, and now im not sure where to start. Background: I have a hot dune ported motor by HJR, that initially had T5s on it when i got the bike. (HQ give away bike) I am turning the HQ bike into a drag bike and istalling my cub, so i put that motor in my duner. Now when the motor came from kevin, the timing was set at +6. So when i put the motor in my other bike i put the plate to +2 and set the dyna on curve #3. Now the motor feels like it is laying over on the top. It just kind of stops pulling. The problem is i also switched from the T5s to shearers. Ive tried going up and down 2 jet sizes on the mains, but it doesnt seem to fix the issue. So im not sure if the issue is in the ignition, or what. I would assume the shearers would help on top, and Kevin told me the motor was originally ported for shearers anyway. I guess what my question is have any of you guys had problems with the dynas not acting right? I am wondering if the motor just needs more advance at the higher rpm, but that would seem backwards. I am going to try switching the plate back to +6 and plugging my OEM CDI in today. If it still isnt acting right ill stab the t5s back on and see if it is back to normal. Again that just doesnt seem correct. If anything i would have expected the bottom to fall off and top to pick up with the shearers. It does take a little longer to come into the power, but not too bad, and then it pulls hard, but the last bit where it lays over has me stumped. This is where the shearers should shine. just figured i would throw it out there and see what information I could dig up on the dynas. I dont really see much discussion on here about them, so my guess is they must not give people trouble or you would hear about it.

Yes i realize that, the crank is not separated. Big end clearance is within spec. if it were my bike i would weld it. I can lead the horse to water but... well you know the rest

Thank you sir

no i wasnt talking about the amount the small end can move inside the piston. In the clymers (and i believe yamaha manual) they tell you to check the big end clearance which is max .029 and we are good there, then they tell you to mount up a dial indicator and check how far the small end can rock back and forth. I am over on that, but just about everybody i have talked to agrees with you guys, dont worry about that spec as long as end play on big end is good. Also made sure bearings look good (well as much as i can see through the oiling slots on the big end and no signs of a broken cage. Thanks for the info. Were going to run it. I wanted to weld it, but he doesnt want to tear it down. Hopefully i wont be proven right on that one. At least not anytime soon

in order to do a 10mil on stock cylinders they need to be resleeved with longer sleeves i beleive. My buddy has an 8 mil and i know they are resleeved. If you are looking for that big of a motor my advice is CUB or cheetah. The really big stock cylinders are going to cost you more than a PV cheetah set up. At least that was my buddys experience.

Are these similar to the metal reinforced base gaskets in that they have rubberized material on both side? that would be cool. Who stocks them

for some reason i cant bring up the pic of the piston, and its hard to tell from the pics of the ports, but did it catch a ring in the exhaust port? Maybe the ports weren't chamfered enough?

I tried both ways and could never get the tach to be accurate. It was very erradic. I came to the conclusion that the banshee electrical system was just too damn noisy, and i was using resistor type plugs

Ok, im trying to help out a friend who doesn't have a lot of money to spend on his bike. He broke a ring on the right piston, and we were planning on just doing a top end and putting her back into service. I checked the end play on the big end of the connecting rods to make sure the crank wasnt separated, and both were less than .029" so within spec. However when i check the small end side to side movement (measurement D in the clymers) im getting .045" on one and almost .050" on the other. Clymers calls for .039 max. Do i need to replace the crank? I have a feeling i know the answer, but i dont see the volume of these things that some of you guys do. I was wondering if they tend to be like that often, and i dont need to worry about it? Perhaps it will live a decent life as is. Both big ends of the rods look good , no discoloration, im just concerned about the side movement. He doesnt have the money to spend, but i dont really want to put it together only to have to rebuild in a trip or 2 because of a blown bottom end. Fyi, the bike is bone stock right now, but had planned on putting an old set of t5s i have on it when we reassemble. thanks

I dont see why it wouldn't work just fine. We use it to seal the cases without a gasket and i even have heard guys use it under cylinders with no base gasket. I would just make sure both surfaces are free of any burs and nice and flat and give it a go. Worse case scenario is that you have a leak. Just take extra oil then replace the gasket after your trip. I bet it doesnt leak though, that crap is sticky stuff EDIT oh yeah, and do yourself a favor and buy a pancake bearing, no more welded balls

Bode1, the other thing to think about is the overall set up of your bike and what your use will be. If you plan to only drag race or ride wide open all the time, the CUB is great, but for overall rideability, they kind of suck IMHO. I had one in my play bike and it just didnt fit for the type of riding i do. It is now in a drag bike. I have gone back to a dune ported motor for play and am much happier. In your sig It says you have kevins dune port now. I would think you could send them back to him and have him get more aggressive and throw some different pipes and carbs on there and i bet its a whole new bike. Keep in mind, though what ever you do will probably add to the top but with some cost on the bottom. Sounds like thats what you may want though, so talk to kev. My 4mil is one of kevins aggressive dune ported motors and with t5s its a blast, lots of mid range and pulls hard until the t5s choke it off. I just put my shearers on it and it is a beast. I havent had it to the dunes yet, but just ripping through the orchard, i can tell you its no joke. Better bottom than the cub had, but feels pretty damn strong on top. I have been saying this a lot on here lately, but only because i have been there got the shirt and i didnt like the way it fit. Somethimes more isnt better.

Everybody should put this in their sig, no wiser words will you find on any forum.

I also use the ground down box end wrench/ 2 grunt method. LOL Racer, im sure you could do that and it would certainly be the most accurately torqued down cub on the road. However, by the time you get done with the math, ill have the head on and be pressure testing the motor.LOL

Wonder what the port timing is like on these. Are they more of a strong dune cylinder out of the box. You said they arent a cub, and that might be a good thing if they have some decent bottom and mid range.

I have had 2 stock cranks separate on 2 diff bikes. Both bikes at the time had pipes and advanced timing only. One of them did this: I just recently pulled down my other bike and the crank had started to separate. Didnt grenade yet, but god only knows how long it would have been. I had planned on squeezing another trip out of the motor but for some reason got a wild hair one night and pulled it apart, im glad i did. Anyway, long story short, if i ever buy another banshee, i will weld the crank before i do anything else. As far as domes, i agree with dajo, dont go any smaller than 21 cc if you plan to stay with pump gas and +4. No way in hell somebody could run 18cc domes on pump anywhere near sea level, maybe at high elevation. For referencem y new motor kicks 180 psi at sea level with 19cc domes

You did put the choke tube back between the carbs right? I think you are in the ball park on jetting on the bottom. Maybe a bit lean on top. Im at sea level, and i run 330-340 mains, 27.5 pilots, needle 1 notch lean of center, air screw 1.25 turns out with T5s. I believe T6s will jet out pretty similar

Ok, ill get over to the shop in the next couple of days and dig them out, they are sitting in the cases, but as i remember they looked fine. I never pulled the stacks apart to inspect them, but i can certainly get a good look and ill send you some pics. Give me a couple of days to get over there.

i was originally going to go for option 1 on my 350, but when i got the topend torn down, the left rod had too much side clearance. The crank had started to separate already. So that forced me to option 3. Option 2 was out. I dont buy used internals dont trust em. But to each their own. You could always do option 3 to minimize down time then sell your crank if its good, if its not, you just saved yourself some time

yep, you will need big bore domes cut for the blaster pistons, Same ones we all run on the cub

I have the gear stacks, but the drums and forks are in my banshee, and not wanting to give them up. You could run banshee drum and forks. If you are interested in the gears let me know ill dig it up

Very possible you are leaking coolant. Do you see bubbles in the radiator if you pull the cap. Also you stated the right side is moking a lot, if it is blue it could be oil, maybe you blew the right crank seal

first torque the heads to 10ft/lb then 15, then finally 20 in sequence as mentioned