rubberneck

i agree, with the uni filter and vent holes, at sea level i run 290 mains and 25 pilots. if you go to pods then you need to step up to 320-330. start with the needle in the middle and airscrews 1.5 turns out. Also make sure the carbs are synched properly both at idle and with the throttle cracked open. Make sure there are no air leaks

just heard that the rumor is that they are looking for kimbo to fight houston alexander in the Ultimate Fighter finale. My money is on alexander if this rumor is true

I dont have any pics of my bike on this computer, but here is one of it during the giveaway. I really like the color in the sun. Im pretty sure JB told me they layed down a metalic silver base then the candy blue on top. It would look killer with your hood and seat. i actually plan to do silver or silver with some graphics

Im not saying you are incorrect because there could be different variations, but my RZ forks are as described above. There is no collar or roller that goes over the pin on the forks. If you were to set my RZ forks next to a banshee fork, you could not tell them apart visually. However when you pick them up, the pin in the RZ fork rotates freely in the fork, where the banshee is solid.

I would want an extremely good explanaiton from them before buying into that. All 3 of my bikes have aftermarket cranks in them and just built another for a cousin. None of them are machined, nor have i ever heard anybody else talk about it. I think they are selling you BS

marcus jones is a beast

You guys slow down on the recomendations. He has already admitted he knows next to nothing and you guys are all ASSuming he has a 4 mil. My guess is he has a 2 piece head, and that is the thick aluminum spacer he is talking about. Maybe not, bue wait for the pics to make sure. I am having a hard time believing he has a 4 mil due to the 17cc domes currently in there. Possible, but that will make crazy compression.

why? I have no issues with mine? What is the problem

4 mil? how did you determine that from the fact that he said he has 17cc domes. I highly doubt it. 17 cc domes on a 4mil is crazy high compression. I run 19cc domes in my 4 mil and that is almost 16:1 uccr. My guess is he has a 350. pics will help determine for sure. If you have a stock stroke motor, you are going to want 21 cc domes and set timing to around 4 degrees

Cool, i bet its gonna haul ass, i just got back from a week in the dunes with a 350 that jeff ported for me and it is a great motor. I think somebody forgot to tell it is just a little 350 cause it runs hard. Im putting my 4mil together now that he ported for me, play ported for T5s, and a fat pilot. LOL cant wait to run it cause the 350 is just so damn much fun. Guaranteed your guage is wrong, cause the 350 i just put together kicks 180psi with 19cc domes on my snap on guage which has been tested accurate, so the 4mil should be even more. However more radicall port timing could bring it back down, but not to 150

smash hit right there

The problem is that most compression gauges are garbage. I have a snap on gauge that has been tested and is accurate, and at sea level with 20cc domes on my 4milx68mm cub it kicked 185psi. That was with .050" squish and cleaned up ports. My guess is that your gauges are off

What size domes did Jeff set you up with? My 4mil i just got from him, he set me up with 19cc domes. Assuming he set you up the same, I dont think you are going to run 50/50 with that. UCCR is around 16:1 Assuming your elevation is aroung sea level or close, and squish is normal, i just dont see you mixing fuel especially with timing at +7 s in your sig

Ok first things first, yes you can use your stock cases. The difference between the banshee and RZ for the most part are as follows. The RZ has different gear ratios as you mentioned, and the RZ forks have bearings in the pins that ride in the shift drum where as the banshee pins are solid. I have heard the drums are different, but i had them side by side and they looked and measured identical, so i think that is false. Honestly I think you are wasting your time for several reasons. First since your screen name is sandman, im assuming you are running in the sand. i can not in any way see how larger gear splits would be beneficial. if anything closer would be better IMHO. If you want more top speed gear up with sprockets. That is my opionion on the gear splits. Now as far as the override goes, the problem you are going to have is that you will have to find the RZ gears first which isnt all that easy anymore, then you will have to have that transmission sent out and cut along with its drum. That means down time. if you stick with banshee gear stacks, you can simply exchange yours for an override that any of the sponsors have in stock. Not to mention if you have any problems, you are stuck with trying to find another RZ set of gears to modify down the road. And last but not least, I have RZ shift forks and drum in one of my banshees, and honestly it doesnt really seem to make that much of a difference from my other bike. Both bikes have modded shift stars and shift shafts. One has stock drum and forks the other the RZ stuff. they both feel about the same. bottom line make sure all the parts are in good shape and adjusted correctly, and the RZ stuff just doesnt matter that much. You are doing an override, so dont worry about it at all.

Do you have a sunocco dealer anywhere near you? I get 110 for 6.75 gallon in 55 gallon drums, or 112 for around 8.50 save 10 cents per gallon if you buy it in the 55 gallon drum, and with 2 shees on race fuel that doesnt last too long

There have been a couple of really shitty decisions in the ufc lately. I know they say never let it go to the judges, but damn it almost looks like the fix is in. If i wanted to watch some shitty as fixed crap id watch boxing. dana white better put a stop to this bullshit, or maybe he is the one scripting it. WWE here we come

fuckin A. For some of us that live in the chat room this will be good, Hopefully we can get rid of the white in there too.

ebay, or just dig around, my buddy had an old RZ motor sitting in the back of his shop and i did some trade work for them. Just lucky i guess.

im trying to understand what you wrote. If i follow you, you put in a barnett clutch kit then replaced one of the steels with an r6 steel? If this is the case i dont see it doing anything for you. Its holding due to the heavy duty springs. The heavy duty clutches that a lot of us use have all FZR streetbike fibers and barnett steels. 3 hd springs holds fine with most duner type motors, and i ran this clutch set up on my 421 cub with 6 hd springs and no lockup

I put a really thin coat of threebond on the base gaskets and reed gaskets. Cant tell you what to do on a stock head gasket, i havent used one since ive owned a banshee.

Good luck with the sale greg. if you do end up parting it out, i am interested in your plastics PM me if you decide to pull the trigger.

I have 34pjs on a dune ported 4mil right now with 50 pilots, air screws 3/4 turn out (probably could use a 52) CEL needles in the middle, and 160 mains with shearer pipes and Pod filters at sea level. You should not need to do as you are saying to get them to idle properly. have you synched them? Have you checked motor for air leaks? Check your jetting and post it up here.

That looks like it

If i were you i would split the cases and inspect/clean all the bearings on the crank. Think about this. How does the air/fuel/oil charge get into the 2 stroke cylinder. It goes through the bottom end first. So if you got enough sand in the cylinders to do damage, it more than likely damaged the bottom end first. Just my .02