rubberneck

God dangit, i was late for the party, that would match my frame perfectly. If deal falls through could you PM me

Sounds killer, the only thing you said i disagree with is the stuff about not needing to weld a crank until a certain psi compression. I have had 3 yes 3 banshees separate cranks that were stock compression bolt on bikes, no porting. 2 stock cranks and 1 hot rods. Now i bought all the bikes used and do not know all the history on them, but 2 of them i know had never been opened up before the cranks went tits up on me. I will never own a banshee stock or otherwise without welding the crank. Its just not worth a ruined trip over something as silly as a crank coming apart. just my .02

Killer, thanks guys jeff told me the same thing in PM. Im going to try carefully scraping the larger deposits then hit it with acid to see whats underneath. Broke a skirt off the right piston and it got chewed up pretty good before wedging itself between the crank and cases Looked to have signs of detonation on that cylinder only. Motor pressure tested good on tear down, dropped 0.5psi in 6 min, so it wasnt an air leak. Left piston looked beautiful, nice color on crown and dome, so I think jetting was ok. Only think i can think is i stuck a float on right carb and ran it dry. Oh well what ya gonna do.

Awesome man, thanks, i will be contacting you. I may just take the generic for now and have him do me up a custom to match my dune bike later. My thought on the grille area is that is is probably fine as most guys running this thing probably are drag racing. Just a guess will get with you for sure. thanks phil

I have a 350 play port he did and i absolutely love it. Great power all over, a lot of fun to ride. I also have a 4mill playport that i havent had time to put together, but am sure it will be great. And a 421 Cub i got from him. Rumor is if you stuff your motor full of treats before you send it in, you will get it back faster. (Just fuckin with you jeff you know we love you in a nonfag way.)

If you are half way competent with tools and can remove the carbs, it is not that big of a deal to do. You have to drill out a hole on the side of the carbs and tab it to accept the new idle adjustment screw. It takes just a few minutes per carb once you have them off the bike and stripped down. It cleans up the area making it look better, is more reliable because the damn TORS tend to cause problems, and the added weight of the tors is hard on the intake boots which can lead to cracks.

No thats not what he means, he means change the jets in the bottom of the carbs. if you dont you will blow up the motor. do not run it anymore until you do. Install some 280 mains if you are using a foam air filter in the stock air box with the snorkel removed. (this is assuming a sea level elevation)

Ok, cool, it is going on a drag bike with custom sub frame, so no mounts to be concerned with. Do you have some pics of the diff style rears? JD has a design he has done for me on a grille in the past, that i would like him to adapt to this hood. Will you sell the hood without the grille so i can just have him do me up a custom one? thanks phil

Cool man, i hear ya on the fuel. Creeping back up as we speak. 3.03/gal today damnit. Good luck finding a 12 valve with low mileage, im sure there are a few out there, but rare. I mean they havent made them (in a truck) for 12 years now, but dont be scared of 2-300 k miles on a cummins. (now the dodge around it, that could be another story) good luck

Good points, my mind always goes straight to drag racing when you start talking racing. On anything other than that the YFZ has a big advantage. those damn things practically ride themselves. Like mentioned, if you are a much better rider you will be fine, but you are going to work for it.

The problem is you are using rational thinking. LOL... The envirofag tree huggers dont care about anything you mentioned. they are basically domestic terrorists in my book. What you describe is exactly what i have seen in the pismo area. I have been going there since i was a kid in the 70s. We used to be able to drive the buggies right down to the boardwalk and shop buy parts food whatever. The dunes were huge, you could literally go for hours and not see another group of duners if you wanted. Now they have everybody crammed into a tiny little fenced area with no decent sized hills. I dont go into town and spend money unless i have to cause it is drama. If i could jump on the bike and run down and get some stuff i would do it a lot more, but must now be street legal just to get there. It is unsafe and not a lot of fun on busy weekends imho. I wont take the family on a weekend because we have had too many issues. Busy weekends are guy only trips. it sucks because growing up i spent every single holiday in pismo with family, and my kids will not experience that. As far as us not spending money on toy haulers and trailers and everything else, that is exactly what they wabnt. they want us all riding bicycles and wearing hemp clothes. Nothing would be more pleasing to them than getting rid of trucks and RVs. the true problem is they dont care about anything but their cause and are usually well funded and connected. It really blows and i hope it doesnt happen but wont be a bit surprised when it does.

thanks, returned

I agree with this. My 350 bike when it was just all bolt on would usually pull a couple of bikes on a piped/intaked 450 with equal sized riders. more than that and the 4 pokes would take it. After porting, it is a whole new game. I could toy with the piped 4 pokes and my buddy has a yfz with an ice cube? or some shit big bore cylinder and i can take him.

Jeff My cub that i blew up doesnt appear to have dinged the nikasil, but there is some aluminum piston chunks melted to the cylinder. what can i use to get it off? I supposed the nikasil could be damaged underneath that, but i wont know till i get it off. Any ideas?

If it were me, id just send the cylinders to Jeff and you will shit yourself when you get them back. He did a playport 350 for me set up to run 110 octane and it flat hauls ass. I built the bike for my brother geared towards duning not racing. It takes a whole lot more than a piped/cammed 450 to put it down,and I am running t5s and stock carbs and reeds to boot. He keeps telling me to put 33s on it, but im not touching anything. It runs and rides so well i dont need anything more. I have one of his stock cylinder 4 mils on the shelf right now, just been too busy to get it together, plus i love the 350 so much, i have been just stealing my brothers bike to ride whenever i get a chance.

Guys you need to fight this thing hard. We lost 90% of the area to ride in at Pismo almost 25 years ago, and they keep adding more and more fences to make it even smaller. it is only a matter of time before they get the rest. It basically sucks to ride now. The envirofags will never give up. Their latest bitch and tactic is high levels of particulate matter in the air downwind of the riding areas. So get the locals together and fight for all you are worth.

Maintenance wise, all pretty much the same. They all require the same oil-oil/fuel filter maintenance. The 3rd gens do use synthetic gear oill in the diffs which is more expensive compared to the old dino oil you can run in the dana rear ends in older trucks, but you dont change it that often. Now as far as repairs if that is what you are referring to, the front ends were basically the same on the 96 up 12 valves up to th 02 24 valves, and they all need the same maintenance, they tend to eat track bars and ball joints/tie rod ends. So same there. Advantage 3rd gen there IMHO, they made some upgrades and dont seem to wear AS BAD. but they still do. But remember, that front end has to carry around that heavy ass motor its whole life, so personally i dont think its out of line for a heavy duty truck. When it comes to the motors, the P-pump on the 12 valves is basically bullet proof. I have seen bad ones and they are expensive, but that is rare. the 24 valves from 98.5 up to 2002 do tend to run through pumps more often than any other years. Paraphrasing bosch's own words, that pump was less reliable than had been hoped for. My cousins just took a crap at 125000 miles. 1400 bucks for a reman unit. I wouldnt let that scare you off if you found a clean truck though. there are lots of guys with several hundred thousand miles on them with no issues. the key on them is keeping a healthy lift pump and good fuel pressure. Mostly, the comfort of the 3rd gen truck is where it is at for me. Oh, one thing i will add is that in my opinion, the 12 valves are the best sounding. Everytime i drive the 12 valve i leave the passenger window down even in the rain so i can hear the exhaust resonate off the on-ramp near my house. They sound sick with straight pipe and about 45psi of boost. Like i said i love em all. 5 years ago if i had to choose just one, it would probably be my 98 12 valve, now it would be the 06. But im kind of a pussy now and like my blue tooth and quiet interior and soft ride more than the humongous clouds of traffic stopping horsepower (smoke) i could make with the old 12 valve. The 24 valve trucks are by far the loundest interior and outside by the way, 3rd gen quietest and 12 valves in the middle BTW (in case that matters to you) Oh yeah, and the 12 vlve gets the best fuel mileage

On my list of stuff to get. Do you have a rear set to match

A nice play port and that thing will put the smack down on the yfz and still be reliable as all hell. And yes you should true and weld the crank.

Thats bullshit, you just paid 1100 bucks for dog shit. This is sad, i have been reading about a lot of bad deals as of late. I have purchased thousands of dollars worth of used parts on here in the past and had great luck. I think that you just cant trust anybody anymore. thats too bad.

Bump for good seller

in my opinion, it depends on what your intended purpose will be for the truck and just how "built" you want it. For crazy nasty horsepower, you cant beat a 12 valve. Lots and lots of fuel on tap to make huge HP. Not to mention the simplicity which is really nice. For a daily driver that you want to be able to goof around with and tow also, the 24 valve is nice because you can adjust power on the fly via the fueling box edge/tst/bullydog etc of your choice. If it were me i would look for a 3rd gen truck with the newer common rail motor if you are thinking 24 valve. I have a 12 valve, a 24 valve and a common rail by the way. For daily driver comfort, the new truck sure is nice. The 12 valve just makes me smile and the 24 valve is a great all around truck i cant bring myself to get rid of.

Trinity stage 4 pipes will fit, my buddy runs them on his RZ shee. They are nice pipes and are stainless steel which is cool.

I believe that i read the WSM pistons have the same crown profile as a stock banshee piston. Therefore you will need a different shape dome than the standard cub with blaster pistons would use.

A 350, a stock cylinder 4mil and a 421 cub. basically 3 too many