rubberneck

Is the choke crossover tube installed? Check and make sure it is on and not leaking and check for air leaks. Your jets may be off, but should be close enough to at least make it run decent. It souinds like something is way off though.

My bike has t5's, v-force3's and stock airbox/no lid with a uni foam filter. I run a 280 main at sea level. Your k&n pods are probably going to need another couple of jet sizes over that. I would say you would be in the 300 range on the main jet. And as far as the timing goes, When I advanced mine 4 degrees, i didn't have to change jetting at all.

clogged vent line on the tank. Try running the bike with the cap loose and see if the bike runs fine.

This post makes me nervous, i pulled the nut off and the swinger bolt didnt want to move. I was tired anyway and decided to quit for the night, so i didn't try the "heavy" persuasion yet. LOL I will keep you posted. Hopefully no cutting tools will be required.LOL Anyway, thaks for all the info. I will start with getting the thing apart and go from there. I may just drill and tap the stocker if I dont have to kill it getting it out. phil

Anybody running one of these? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...527510&rd=1 What do you think, worth the money, or should i stick with stock?

Plug check looked good, that was also my first thought. I got the bike used and really have no idea how many hours it has on it. I think i will just tear her down and make a list of everything i need. Thanks for the info fasttoys, i am going to get the side pulled apart and make a list of all the other little projects i need to take care of before the next trip and give you a call so i can get everything at once. talk to you soon. Phil

Yeah, thanks for the tips. I guess i should just pull it down and see where im at. Do you guys carry the plastic drive gear, or do i need to go to the stealer to get it? I will put together a list of parts/questions, and give you a call. I have other things i need to do to the bike also. By the way, i have been running straight water with redline water wetter, and those temps were running hard moving fast. If i started to cruise, the temps would go up, hottest i saw was 224 then i shut it down for a while. What should my temps be when running fast?

Just got back from pismo this weekend, and the bike seems to be running warm. Never puked any water, but it was pretty cool outside. It was in the mid 60's all weekend, and the bike ran 195-210 all weekend. That seems warm considering how cool it was ambient, What do you guys think? Bike ran like a top and plug check looked good, so i dont think its a jetting issue, so i am assuming the stock impeller is going south. I am going to order a billet impeller, but want to try to get everything i need ordered at one time. Besides the impeller itself and obviously the water pump housing seal, what should i order? Should i look at replacing anything else while im in there? Isn't there a nylon drive gear that turns the impeller? Do these need replacing often? What about the bearing and oil seal? Thanks in advance. Phil

I was just going to post up a question about these swingers when i saw this older post. I'm glad to hear that you guys have been happy with them. Now for my question, what length? At this point, I am pretty happy with the stock length, as the front end seems to do what i want when i want. Easy enough to keep down or pick it up when needed. I am replacing the stocker because it is bent and causing rapid rear sprocket wear. Any way, my bike has the T5 kit, and +4 timing. Other than that pretty stock power wise. I may get it ported, but not in the budget right now. I was thinking +2 that way if i added a little power it would help keep the front down, but still be really nimble in the dunes. Am i wasting my time? Should i just go straight to +4? If i ever need to split the cases, I will probably go 4mil stroker just because it isn't that much more to do it at that time. Will i be wishing for the +4 swinger if i go 4 mil motor? Help me to decide, thanks. Phil

I currently have 20x10x10 - 10 paddle haulers. I used to run 21x12x8 8 paddle haulers, and i think i am going to go back to a 21x12x8 8 or 10 paddle hauler. When you drop the air pressure down I think the smaller rims allow the tire to flatten out and give a better foot print for more traction in really soft sand. You can air them up if you want them to bite less. With my current 20x10x10s they dont seem to respond to airing down and hook up as well.

Yeah, tried that first, then trail tech told me to wrap the plug wire. No difference. The thing that has me thinking it is a bad unit, is that it freaks out when plugged into the bikes power system. Dont know, will talk to trail tech.

All right, at this point I am pretty frustrated with this thing. I am thinking I have a bad unit, and i am going to call trail tech again and see if they will shoot me a new unit. To this point, here is what I have done. I first tried picking up the tach signal off the coil conection but the tach was very erratic. I tried rerouting the signal wire to minimize any interferance didn't help. i then wrapped the signal wire around one of the plug wires 5 times per instrucions. Same thing tach all over the place. I originally tried wiring the power for the unit into the bikes electrical system to keep things simple. At one point i had the power unhooked and noticed that the tach was a lot less erratic, but still not perfect. I wired the power to a small battery as suggested above, and at least everything is working now, but the tach is still not great, bounces all over at times. Thinking that resistor plugs would help (makes sense most cars run them for this reason i believe) not any difference from non resistor plugs. So either my banshee has the dirtiest electrical system ever, or my vapor has issues. Will keep you posted with what i find. I like the unit, and to be honest i dont have time to look at the tach while hauling azz anyway, but if its there, i want it to work. After my trip to pismo, I will get in touch with trail tech and see about exchanging the unit. It will pizz me off if i wasted all this time chasing the problem if it is the unit, but then again I wont feel like such a dumb azz if it is bad.

That set must have been glued up on a monday after a long hard weekend. LOL I have a set that one paddle is crooked. Doesn't seem to affect the performance, but it has always annoyed me. They came with the bike. They are 20/10/10 10 paddle. I will probably replace them with some 21/12/8 or 22/11/8 8 paddles anyway.

Couple of quetions about pyros. Im a diesel guy, so i know where they should run, but what temps do you guys shoot for on the banshee when tuning? On a diesel richer is hotter, I assume lean will be hot on a gasser motor. Where do you mount the probes? thanks phil

Good thinking. I bet you are correct about the plugs. I have been running the B8ES. I will get a set of resistor plugs and give it a shot. thanks. phil

Hey thanks for all the info. I figured out the ppm = 2 thing because i knew the banshee fired both cylinders every time. It was confirmed when i fired it up and it showed it was idling at 3200rpm. LOL I like your idea of using a small battery instead of the elec system, that way the backlighting will be more consistant. I have a 7.2 volt NiMh rc car battery i will try. I think it should work, the vapor instructions say it can use anywhere from 6-400 volt input. The only problem im having right now is an erratic tach reading. It seems to bounce all over the place. i think i am getting interferance from the plug wires. I am going to rerout the signal wire and see if that fixes it. Thanks again. Phil

Ok cool. After you wrap the tach wire around the plug wire, did you cover it with tape or zip ties or anything to hold it there? I wonder if i could get a big piece of heat shrink on there. thanks again. phil

How did you guys hook up your tach? They list several methods in the manual. What did you do? Also, where did you tap into the banshees power system to get power for the vapor? thanks Phil

A stator and lights is going to be my next mod as well. There were several posts on here dealing with the dc conversion. I dont remember who, but a member had RickyStator float the ground on the stator for him before they shipped it out, that way all he had to do was get a regulator/rectifier, mount the battery and rewire the bike. No messing with doing the float yourself. There are several step by steps on here though if you want to do it yourself. I am seriously considering it because i want to run HID lights.

Can't wait, according to the UPS tracking info, mine should be here tomorrow. :cool: Cant wait to start hooking crap up and test it out.

Just ordered the above vapor kit for my bike. I noticed on the install pics that they mount the speed sensor on either the inside rotor cover or a C bracket. Does that bracket come with the kit or do i need to order it separate, because my rotor covers are long gone. thanks. Also, i didn't see it on their site, but i want to add some lights to the bars. They have light dashes for the endurance listed, but none for the vapor. Do you know if they have a lightdash for the vapors yet?? Thanks phil

Have you checked to make sure you are getting fuel to the carbs? Did it have fuel in the tank while it sat? Its possible that the the filter screens in the tank on the fuel valve are gummed up or the fuel lines are gummed up. If it has good fuel flow to the carbs, then disregard this post and clean the carbs replace that bent needle.

If its the right cylinder blowing oil, I believe it could be the crank seal. How is the oil level in the trans. If its down, that is a good indication you are sucking trans fluid into the cylinder. I believe someone on here has instructions for a leakdown tester

When i bought my bike, the stock skid plate on the swinger was beat up bad and rubbing the chain and rotor. I yanked it off because i mostly ride sand. Im wanting to do a little dirt/trail riding and i dont want to ruin my new wave rotor, so i need a skid plate. My buddies bike has a cool stainless steel skid plate on it. it is tough as hell and has held up way better than the previous aluminum units he had on there. problem is he got it quite a while ago and can not remember where he got it and there are no markings on it. Anybody know who makes these things. Thanks.

Agreed, My toomeys came on my bike and were pretty neglected. They had quite a bit of surface rust on them and i was ready to blast and paint them. I read a suggestion somewhere to use some 000 steel wool on them. It worked great. Get some 00 or 000 steel wool and some clean solvent and rub them down. My pipes dont look new by any means, but they look way better. It only took me about 45 min to do including removing the pipes. Your pipes sound like they may be in better shape than mine were. Give it a try.