rubberneck

what kind of pipes, what carbs, and is the tranny a duneable? Have the cylinders been ported? By who? Prices please, are you willing to separate?

i could be wrong, but i thought that the new lonestars were keyed

i have a lonestar splined axle that i bought off of here used with carrier for 350 bucks, look around you will save some cash. I just weghed it and axle plus wheel hubs plus lug nuts, sprocket hub with 46 tooth aluminum sprocket break hub complete carrier and all hardware (basicall everythin on the rear end but brake rotor and it weighed 14.4 pounds. I have a lonestar billet swinger with it and it is just under 12 pounds, so you can get your entire rear end except tires around30 pounds. i bet stock is easily 70

what size are the tires, very important. thanks

oh, gotcha, guess i missed those threads. Or are you refering to the florida boys with the 150hp stand up bikes. if so, then LMAO

cool, just a bit of info i wanted to pass on as my carbs would have more than likely leaked with any aftermarket bowls. Perhaps this info would prevent somebody from blaming you for a leak which is out of your controll. Just one more thing to check before you start bolting parts on i guess

Did you put race gas in or are you still running the 21 cc domes with pump gas. If so, i dont give a shit what your squish or jetting is its gonna rattle the plugs

Gee thanks for selling them to me bastard... Remind me to kick you in the nuts Now to add something constructive to this thread. The first set of billet bowls i had were leaking at the adaptor plate to carb seal. Come to find out the castings on my PWK carbs had some imperfections in it that sealed with the stock bowls but not with the billets. the stocks have bigger orings that protrude more. Sounds like chariot may have already fixed this with their design and more protrusion, I was able to cure this by using a large flat file and gently cleaning up the sealing surface on the carb. I like the idea of the washers on the bowls though, i will be adding those as i also noticed a little seepage around the threads after a couple of trips. thanks

pretty much agreed here, my 421 was run with a +2 arm in dune configuration. It was a handfull. can it be riden and riden well hell yes, but it is a lot of work, you are constanly feathering either the clutch or throttle or both... not to mention if you like doing tree shots and crap like that it sucks. Definitely a case of less is more some times

Fuck that Jeff, i have a feeling if she was in the shop you would get even less time to cut on cylinders. :biggrin:

snap on here, you get what you pay for

cool, sounds like you got a good deal then. Last bike i picked up the oil was gray as hell and had some metallic flakes in it. clutch was toast. New clutch and all was good. Since you dont mind putting a little coin in it, i would do the following. New clutch, billet basket, modded shift star, billet water pump with new seal (inspect the bearing) , pancake bearing, and replace the o ring on the water tube. You more than likely wont have to go back in for a long time. Also inspect the condition of the clutch arm actuator and make sure its not worn too bad.

pm onesickcrewcab, he had one for sale see if he still has it

FUGLY

No way in hell man, if that is a 4mil x 68 bore, 21 cc domes will give probably 165 -170 psi is my guess. i had a typo in my previous post, i run 20 cc domes in my gas 421 and kick 185 psi with a .053 squish on a known good snap on gauge. you need to run race gas, i dont care what carbs or pipes you have on there. even if the guage is reading less, calculate the UCCR and you will see you cant run pump in that motor if you want it to live.

could be water, but water usually makes the oil look like a foamy mocha color and you will see condensation inside a lot of the time. If the oil is really grey colored it could be the clutch going south. How long have you run that particular oil. Here is the deal, to correct any of the afformentioned conditions you have to go through the same procedure of removing clutch cover, so you may as well replace it all while you are in there. my .02

I certainly cant tell you what is best because the only pipes ive run on a stock port motor other than stock was a 2 into 1 and T5's. didn't like the 2 into 1 really. The T5s run really nice. A properly tuned stock bike with T5s and a modded timing plate to get +4 timing will run beautifully. Really fun bike IMHO

oh, i see, didnt know you had a 2 into 1 on a cub. Dang i would call that a mismatch. Question; is this a 68x54 cub or 68x 58 cause 21 cc domes on my 68x58 gave me 185psi kicking compression and UCCR of about 14.5:1 i belive. if that is a 421 you are way into race gas territory regardless of what exhaust and carb you have on there. just my .02

just a thought, but you might have a bad CDI. I had one that ran, but i chased my tail on jetting for days. I kept adding fuel and it kept breaking up. New CDI and all was good. I think it was stuck at max advance if that is possible. dont know, but might swap in a know good one before pulling your hair out

whats the price, quit bullshitin how much do you want.

so how much? and do you have a title for it?

PM onesickcrewcab, he is parting his bike and has one for sale

i bet the aftermath was terrible. LOL

I think Tim sucks, He charges better than fair prices and ships your parts out really fast. I prefer to pay extra and wait months and months for my parts to show up. But hey to each their own. :yelrotflmao: Anyway, all this stuff came from Stellar and it rocks:

ok, start with the basics, what is the compression in each cylinder?, did you synch the carbs? Milky oil indicated water in oil. The fact that the oil level keeps dropping and it is not leaking outside may indicate that it has a bad crank seal and is burning the oil. Is it smoking really badly out of the right cylinder, that is the other sign. do a compression test and let us know