rubberneck

you could very lightly, and i mean VERY LIGHTLY try draw filing over the area. Get yourself a very fine toothed machinist file and hold it in both hands one on the handle end and one on the tip. pull the file sideways across the frame in the same direction the vin is stamped. that is draw filing. if you are carefull it should remove the coating on the frame and leave it in the indentations of the stamping. Most likely though, they sandblasted it pretty good before coating and those last few numbers are gone. what i would do is get it cleaned as best you can, ,then invest in some number and letter stamps and make them deeper. do a clean proffesional job and it will never be questioned

technically, you have to run silencers and spark arrestors. Stay in the back with it and more than likely you wont get bothered. I have been checked for sound, but it was on the beach. If you are in the back and not doing anything to draw attention to yourself, you will probably be fine. Kevin, i assume you are taking your motorhome out there, air down buddy and hopefully you have tow hooks on the front and a 4x4 in your crew. Sometimes it can be a pain getting motorhomes in and out, but the camping on the beach is worth it. Lots of fun. Check the tide schedules if the river is up, you will want to go in at low tide. Austin, what is river like now?? Sometimes it is nonexistant, other times it can have a pretty good lip on it, thats when you need to go in at low tide and swing wide.

I also change mine after every dune trip. I like to inspect the old oil. It gives you an idea of clutch condition and how well everything is holding up.

since you've already ditched the brakes, i think we can assume this thing is pretty much dedicated to drag racing. Without a doubt, you need an override, and you may as well go to a cub. You could have your stockers ported, but all the builders are backed up and you could buy a cub and have it bolted on this weekend and it will run damn strong

yeah, my inframes required shims everywhere to fit half way decent. now that you mention it. I kind of figured it was the frame. guess not

Yeah, no doubt, although not the happiest, we all run them, and for myself, i have multiple sets, so, i guess im not that pissed at him. But it would be nice to have my cake (chrome) and eat it too.

ive seen this too many times. why are rail drivers such dip shits. when traffic is racing up the fucking hill what makes them think they can go accross the hill. dumb fucks. Normally im not in favor of lawsuits, but i hope you sued them

to add to that, hope you arent too picky about your chrome cause shearer's chromer sucks whale wang

The chariot performance throttles are a really nice option in addition to the easy pull springs. you can adjust the postion of the thumb throttle to suit your needs. the cascade extended levers for the stock throttle suck. the ergonomics is all wrong

i think i milled about an 1/8 of an inch off

honestly that was my original plan, but i feel guilty knowing that even though it is new it is probably broken. screw it lesson learned

I guess i should package up the 2 pieces of shit i have laying on my work bench and send them back. I just gave up. I called them becasause the first flywheel i got from them had the 2 lugs machined incorrectly. They were not 180 degrees apart. One was about 5 degrees off. Even after i sent it back, the guy said he couldn't see anything wrong. Idiot

heat is the trick, but be carefull, do not do any damage to the top of the cylinder. I wouldnt go crazy with the torch, usually just get em good and hot, do not let the flame touch the cylinder itself and they will back right out. I have a snap-on collet style stud removal tool and quite often you still need heat. they will grip the stud like nobodys business, but if you try to hard you usually end up breaking them off, and that will ruin your day. so get out the torch

Theater room, not family room. Wife would get mad at that. To answer your question, duh think about it. if i put them on the bike ill never get to see them.. this way i can look at them every night when i watch tv. You know i dont ride my bikes just by parts for them and polish them

I bought the tank from tim (azcustoms) and the block was on it. it is inscribed as ezpurge. dont know who made it.

damn eric, im sending mine to you

bump for a great seller and a kick ass tank, i have one of these, you wont be dissapointed

at least your lasted 20 min i had 1 that was bad right out of the box

yeah, you could easily make one that way. only thing nice about this one is that it is machined one piece so it is very compact and light.

sorry about the crappy cell phone pic, but if you zoom in on my tank, you can see the aluminum block attached to the fuel lines on my tank. basically allows you to shut off the petcock, hook up your purge bottle and purge the bike. Nothing to disconnect This one came on the tank when i got it, dont know where to get another.

So what i would like to know because you guys obviously are deep into this. What is the best way to figure fuel octane requirements. Everybody on here always talks about kicking compression but as has already been stated, that can drastically change based on port heights. it doesn't make sense to me that kicking compression is the best way. Is uncorrected compression ratio what you use?

before you tear it down, do a leakdown test to rule that out. Are you running a pingel? Cap gutted?

No way, that guys gauge must be reading wrong 18cc domes on a fresh build should be way higher than 155 psi. I think your readings of 185 and your buddies of 192 with 17 domes are probably spot on. 17 is a pretty small dome.

couple of things. first off, 7psi could easily be mechanical error in the gauge, 2nd, you rbike was ported, so your kicking compression will be lower due to higher port hiegth. 3rd timing has no effect on compression, however it does play a large role in octane requirements. that bike needs to be on race fuel

im pretty sure there was some posts a while back about this, and i think everybody was recomending rubber mounts. I am planning on using a piece of an old slick i have and cutting a strip out of it. its pretty rigid for support but will still give and lessen the vibrations. i have used this same set up on a sand rail exhaust that kept breaking