rubberneck

Those look like yfz450 arms and shocks

Bansheestang is on the money. And as far as him making you guys look stupid, i am pretty confident he has forgotten more about tuning and compression ratios than any of us know. Here is the thing you guys keep making these posts in multiple threads about how it is ok to run these small domes. Do you not realize how quickly detonation will kill a motor? A couple of very good points were made above, pump gas is unreliable. One bad batch and you lose a motor if your compression is on the edge. Not to mention that more is not necessarily better with compression. So you jack the compression right to the edge of what the fuel you are using can handle. Now you have to richen it up to keep it from detonating. Id rather go more conservative and tune the bike properly. And i bet if you were do dyno both ways the properly tuned bike with less compression will show more power. You guys do what you want, but you can not solely rely on what the bike kicks out to determine what fuel to run and recomending too small of domes is irresponsible.

If the bike feels like it is wandering at high speed add more caster. I run 5 on mine and it handles great. But you may need more. Also what is your toe in and camber set at? And you are taking measurements with you (somebody that weighs what you do) on the bike right? Alignment needs to be done at ride heighth.

Call tim at steller machine and performance. He is making heavy duty arms now. His customer service is.top.notch.

That magic constant is simply pie. From geometry guys remember that class. 3.1417. The reason the constant is 0.0031417 is because your measurements are in mm and you want your displacement in cc

I tried to use the cheap ones the first time also, 1 trip out, broke 1 spring, another lost. I bite the bullet and buy the yammy ones now

to 421cub, 38 lectrons will probably be great, i run 39pwks on my 421 and a lot of guys run 35 pwks so you should be good to go provided they are setup properly, From what i hear the needle selection is key on lectron tuning.

To the OP, i agree, stay stock, i have a FAST dune ported 350 that i run T5s and stock carbs on and it is a blast, bike runs great everywhere, would it make more HP with some 33 pwk, probably, but im not gonna bother to find out, it has such great throttle response and power everywhere, i dont want to change anything

How much oil are we talking here?, thats gonna determine what id do

As stated earlier, that chart only estimates compression for stock stroke and bore motors. My 421 i ran 20cc domes and kicked 185 psi at sea level.

i guess my 95 and 01 bikes must have had 02-03 carbs then

Money nailed it

you've got a lifetime hater here. I go out of my way to mention companies that do me right and even more out of my way for those that screw me. i would spend my money elsewhere.

Absolutely agreed, however i wasnt even going to bother going there. Depending on the bore, its in the mid 14 range on up with 19cc For reference, sunocco recomends its 110 octane for 2 strokes up to 14:1. They actually recomend their 112 for 15+ but i have had no problems with 110 on my motor. But whatever, i just dont want to see the OP blow up his new topend or grenade a crank. Bottom line sea level = bad with pump and 19cc domes.

It defininitely could be electrical. Does it have an oem stator? Ricky stators are notorious for breaking up in the higher RPMS could be CDI also. However if it is only breaking up in 6th wide open you could be running out of fuel. Pull the petcock out of the tank and make sure the screens are clean, they get pretty dirty pretty quick if there is shit in the tank or was.

Sorry but im going to disagree.. I have 19cc domes in my 350 and at sea level it kicks 180 psi on a snap on gauge that has been tested accurate. You will blow that motor up with pump at those levels. At sea level i think you are nuts to run anything smaller than a 21 for pump gas, but its your motor do what you want. Here is a link to prove im not full of shit. Look at noss' chart and you will see my motor is exactly where it should be compression wise. http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm

What is your elevation, i have dune port from jeff with T5s and stock carbs, pods etc etc etc. and i had to put 360 mains in at sea level. Ran good at 340, but plugs were very light, 360s runs just as good and plugs look better nice tan ring. You very well may be lean depending on elevation and temps. As far as compression goes, that seemslow, again depending on your elevation, and the first thing that comes to mind is what brand tester are you using.

Fuck ASR, their arms are fine, but if you have a problem they are fucking stupid retarded idiots, i hate that company, they dicked me around on a swing arm for months fuck them. Not to mention the heims wear fast (which is not unique to ASR) i would get arms with balljoints, a lot of guys like wickeds

I have had stock cranks separate on 3 diff bikes, and none had more than bolt ons at the time. I will never own another banshee without imediately splitting the cases and welding the crank even if i plan to leave all internals and porting stock. Its a reliablity thing for me. Splitting and welding is easy and it sucks to go on a week long trip and lose a crank 2 days in. How come motors never blow up on the last day of the trip

Yeah i have a press that is no problem, i just dont want to scratch them putting the mounts back in, but ill be carefull. It will look exaclty like it does now,. I found a PC that looks exactly like my paint now. Just pissed cause the quality of paint has gone to shit and the paint didnt hold up on this build. Here is what it looks like now going to build an oven big enough to do the frame

I got these from tim at stellar machine and performance, they weigh next to nothing and his chromer does great work if you shouls so choose

I run that perch and lever from FAST on my bikes, and they work great. However, while you are at it, i would buy a genuine Yamaha cable, not the motion pro ones, they are too damn long and dont adjust correctly. That and buy a cable luber and a lube it well and often. You will be amazed at the clutch pull even with HD springs after you do that.

Thats what she said. LOL. Dang it guys, you're confusing me as much as i already confused myself. Ill shoot nitrotate a PM and see How high he has safely cooked them. I guess i could just press them out and not worry about it, but my only concern is getting them back in without damaging the PC.

I have one of Jeffs port jobs on a 350 bike and it is a fucking blast. You want to make the bike fast call FAST, speed is only a credit card # away. That being said, the first thing i recomend to anyone is to have the crank welded even at mild HP levels, I have now had 3 cranks separate in nothing more than bolt on HP level bikes. The first thing i will do from now on for any shee i am keeping for myself is split the cases and weld/inspect the crank. Just my .02.

Question for you guys that powder coat cases. I have been PC'ing anything and everything in the shop since buying my hypersmooth PC gun a month ago, and have decided to PC the cases in my duner bike since she is torn down. The powder i have needs to cure at 400 degrees for 10min and then i am going to clear it. Do you guys press the rubberized motor mounts out of the cases before pc'ing or will they handle the heat? My gut tells me i better press them out, but i figured i would ask