BellicoseBanshee

My first car was a 1962 Ford Falcon 'Futura' with a straight 6; it was black with the original red interior. That car was pretty cool and ran well... :cool:

I would say 14 tooth front sprocket over a 13, but it depends what is on the rear, too. I have not fooled with gearing on the banshee much, but THIS chart may help you decide how you want to set it up...

Cold motor Throttle wide open 15-20 kicks 3 tests per cylinder 5-10 minutes between tests A fresh stock reading is around 120-130, depending on elevation...the main thing is to make sure the cylinders have about the same compression reading. Others might do it differently... EDIT: they beat me to it... :laugh:

K&N CLAMP-ONS If you want to keep the overflow reservoir, you will also need THIS. If you search around, you may find something cheaper...

Might be a problem with the shifting forks and/or shifting drum...I have seen that before... :mad: A bent or damaged fork will definately cause problems if not replaced...someone else might have more insight.

BigRed350X has a case splitting 'how to'...I will try and find it. With the 'how to' and a manual, you will find that it is not bad at all. EDIT: HERE it is...this should help very much if you need to split the cases to solve the problem... Thanks BigRed350x!! :thumbsup:

NV DMV issued titles on ATVs until August 15, 2005... NV DMV

HERE is the BLM link to Dumont. 2-stroke silencers are NOT spark arrestors unless they are stamped "USFS approved" or have USFS approved screen installed (the rangers know the difference between approved and regular screen). You can purchase a non-resident sticker HERE. Amargosa requires flags, spark arrestors, and you need to stay away from the marked conservation areas. As stated above, don't give the rangers a reason to pay attention to you and you will be fine. I have never seen a ranger at Amargosa...and I don't use spark arrestors in NV or CA...some spots in Utah are big on spark arrestors though. Bottom line: Use an orange flag, buy the non-resident sticker for CA, and don't do stupid stuff and all will be well... :thumbsup:

The seat does not seal the airbox, the airbox should have an actual lid. If you have the stock filter cage, the lid holds the cage in place to seal the intake system. There is a good chance you have an air leak if you have the stock filter cage and nothing holding the top of the cage in place. Make sure you do not have an intake leak before you start changing the jetting...

I agree, the Pro Wedge IIs are the best... Yes, $200.00 mounted on Douglas Blues... They are right HERE... :thumbsup: HERE is an article comparing Pro Wedge II and Maxxis 4-Snow...I will stick with Pro Wedge IIs...

Click HERE for full article posted by sredish... Altitude, Humidy, and Air Temperature Once the jetting is set and the bike is running good, there are many factors that will change the performane of the engine. Altitude, air temperature, and humidity are big factors that will affect how an engine will run. Air density increases as air gets colder. This means that there are more oxygen molecules in the same space when the air is cold. When the temerature drops, the engine will run leaner and more fule will have to be added to compensate. When the air temerature gets warmer, the engine will run richer and less fuel will be needed. An engine that is jetted at 32 degrees may run poorly when the temperature reaches 90 degrees. Altitude affects jetting since there are less air molecules as altitude increases. A bike that runs good at sea level will run rich at 10,000 ft due to the thinner air. Humidy is how much moister is in the air. As humidy increases, jetting will be richer. A bike that runs fins in the mornings dry air may run rich as the day goes on and the humidity increases. Correction factors are sometimes used to find the correct carburetor settings for changing temperatures and altitudes. The chart in fig 8, shows a typical correction factor chart. To use this chart, jet the carburetor and write down the pilot and main jet sizes. Determine the correct air temperature and follow the chart over to the right until the correct elevation is found. Move straight down from this point until the correct coreection factor is found. Using fig 8 as an example, the air temperature is 95 degrees and the altitude is 3200 ft. The correction factor will be 0.92. To find out the correction main and pilot jets, multiple the correction factor and each jet size. A main jet size of 300 would be multiplied by 0.92 and then that number can be rounded up to the next main size. For instance, 300 x .92 would be 276, so a 280 could be used. A pilot jet size of 30 would be multiplied by 0.92 which comes to 27.6, so the pilot jet size would be a 27.5.

You need Yamabond, Hondabond, or 3 Bond 1211 (I think 1104 also ). I prefer Hondabond...I had better be careful saying that...skating on thin ice tossing the 'H' word in the ring... You need gaskets on both sides of the spacer plate...unless there is another way I am not aware of...

I have found THIS to be helpful when fooling with the electrical system...

It is covered in this technical document from the home page. :thumbsup: Just follow the modified wiring diagram (Q&A#63). :geek: Banshee Electrical Technical Document

I concur, you should not need a plug lock, something is wrong.

Check THESE guys out...they seem to have an alright operation. I have seen their bikes out at Amargosa several times and they appear to be maintained pretty well and not abused too much. Amargosa Big Dune is a nice place to ride (for a small dune), and it is not very busy even over the holidays. It is a nice place to throw sand between the big weekends...

Air screws... Warm up the bike and set the idle slightly higher than normal. Seat the air screws and then turn out 1/4 turn each. Let the bike set for 20-30 seconds to stabilize and repeat. The idle should increase as you turn the air screws out. If the highest idle occurs: with the air screws less than 1.0 turns out from seated, bigger pilot is needed. with the air screws more than 2.0 turns out from seated, smaller pilot is needed. Ideally, you want the highest idle between 1 and 2 turns out. This is probably most useful if the initial pilot setting is close to what is required...

Magic Racing Toomey F.A.S.T. Vito's RMATV and I am sure eBay as well.

Calibrated elbow! I wouldn't know anything about that...

I just noticed some of the the YZ250/WR250s are also 68mm x 68mm.....interesting. They switched to 66.4mm X 72mm for '99 and up, though. I have not seen a Tri-Z in a long time. I wouldn't mind riding one of those......a T3 would be fun, too!

Stock stroke cubs are available in 65mm and 68mm bores. stock stroke cubs

Oh come on, what is a few extra holes...hehehe...:biggrin:

In your sig, you already have 21X12X8 8 paddle haulers listed (on bike in picture). How well do they work? Seems like the twilight zone, getting new tires that already exist...:ninja:...maybe I am missing something... EDIT: I just read the new replies about the tires you bought from RMATV (messed-up paddle spacing) and figured it out...now I get it...I knew there was something I was missing. :thumbsup: Oh well, it has been one of those days!

Just look at THIS search link, there are many pages covering the oil mixture topic. 32:1 is a very popular mixture ratio, and yes, some oils specify a particular ratio. Generally speaking, a grade of 2-stroke oil is fine at 32:1 or so. You will get many opinions and preferences on this subject.

You only need to drill lubrication holes for cylinders with an exhaust bridge. Example: Wiseco pistons come with two holes for the Honda cylinders with an exhaust bridge. When the cylinder with an exhaust bridge is bored, the face of the bridge must be relieved 0.002-0.004 to allow for bridge expansion, so it is a good idea to drill the third hole to help ensure proper bridge lubrication (same size as the two factory holes making sure they are all in line and equally spaced. If no holes are provided, then all three must be drilled (following the instructions, of course). :geek: NOTE: I may be wrong about the 0.002-0.004 measurement, but that is what I recall.