BellicoseBanshee

Detonation can cause the plug to back out...

If it has been that rich for some time, you may want to consider repacking the silencers, for the packing material is probably saturated with oil as well...

Keep the tap lubricated and the chances of breaking the tap will be greatly minimized. Aluminum is soft and easy to tap. Maybe THESE instructions are more detailed than what you have, although these do not explain actual 'tapping' procedures. Sliding the end of a broom handle into the slide barrel will ensure you do not drill through the idle screw boss and hit the other side of the carburetor (be careful not to damage the little pin inside the barrel).

Attach rubber hoses to the bleed fittings and catch the fluid in a bucket...

Problem can be solved by changing board settings... 1. Click 'My Controls' 2. Click 'Board Settings' listed under 'Options' 3. Under 'Board Display Settings' it will ask you... Do you wish to view members signatures when reading topics? 4. Select -NO- 5. Click 'Change my Account options' Simple as that... posts will no longer have signatures.

I always use the 'foot on the cylinder for more leverage' method myself... :ohmy:

Cylinder head nuts - 28Nm (20 ft.-lb.) Cylinder base nuts - 28Nm (20 ft.-lb.) Torque them incrementally, 5, 10, 15, 20, operate the engine, then check the torque after the engine has completely cooled down. Check the torque again after the first ride as well, should be good after that with periodic inspection. A manual is great for all the stupid stuff...

The exhaust bridge might be nice for the rings, but it will damage the piston if not properly relieved and lubricated...

Could last for years... It depends on how it is maintained, how it is used, and how well it was machined/assembled.

All the kit does is replace the TORS carburetor switch/cap assemblies with two 'normal' caps, throttle cable, and idle scews (the TORS carb switches contain the stock idle adjustment). The electrical side is eliminated by disconnecting the control unit, two carburetor switches, and the throttle switch. Essentially, the TORS elimination kit is actually just a 'get rid of the big, stupid switch boxes' on the carburetors. Unplug the connectors mentioned above and the system is bypassed and the idle can still be adjusted using the knob on the switch boxes. I hope my 'splainin' is sufficient...

Post them please, I would like to see some pictures of the ported cages... :geek:

I would try to work a deal to get the 2005, but that is just me though...

Straight from the top of the Jetting & Exhaust Forum: How Carburetors Work Troubleshooting Your Jetting What Is Jetting You may have already found these... :thumbsup:

Are you developing a regression line using the method of least squares or a curve using a least squares quadratic model? Maybe something more complex than that... :ermm:

If I recall, Haulers will only fit 8 inch or 10 inch wheels... 21X12X8 eight paddle Haulers work well and I would stay away from wheel spacers if I were you...

Definately check ALL the other electrical components and the wire harness...

Most likely you will need to go up 1 or 2 sizes on the main jets, for the 2:1 filter should let a larger volume of air into the engine than the modified airbox. Install the 2:1 filter and check the plugs. That is the best way to determine jetting requirements... Plug Chop :thumbsup: I am not sure how the stingers route through the frame with the TR6 pipes, but with T5 pipes, the filter sits close to the left stinger. If the filter is close to the left TR6 stinger, use a strand of safety wire around the middle of the filter to keep the outwear away from the left stinger.

This is the spark arrestor wesw is referring to...

I used Gold Max screws with Cheng Chin C826 tires when I ran on the ice about 15 years ago. I don't know which are the best now. I am not sure if standard sheet metal screws will work very well . You may need something with a high crown, like these... You may want to check with the track you will be racing at, it may have certain criteria for screws and/or tires, as well as bumpers, nerf bars, etc.

I have a feeling it will not stay stock for long after a good rip in the dunes.

Throw a clutch pancake bearing in there as well if you have not done so already... :beer:

Read THIS (mostly the last half) and if I recall, your question will be answered...

Toomey sells the rubber silencer mounts...$15.99 each Toomey individual pipe parts I found some polished rear mounts on fleaBay for about $20 a pair, similar to wacko's mounts...

If 105 and 112 are accurate, that is about 6.5% difference between the two cylinders. I would keep an eye on that also, for they should be close to one another. I do not recall the limit, so hopefully someone else can post it...

The switch has two wires, one wire (green/yellow) that goes directly to the CDI, and one wire is a ground wire. When the parking brake switch plug is connected, the circuit is grounded and the CDI controls RPM according to the switch position. When the plug is disconnected, the circuit is not grounded, and the switch does not send an open or closed signal to the CDI; the CDI is no longer a rev limiter. Someone with electrical system knowledge can correct me if I am wrong...