BellicoseBanshee

That is funny. My buddy calls the '96 red and yellow the "McDonald's Banshee."

I think ape hangers would compliment my banana seat and sissy bar..... :ohmy: .....And the reflectors I installed on my wheels. What in the world.....ape hangers :shoothead: I would like to see a picture.....

Cascade Innovations Timing Plates Ricky Stator- $35 Pro Design- $85

Oil Chart: I know, I know.....It just seems like this question has come up many times lately. Actually, I use Maxima Super M Premix at 32:1 in the banshee. :beer:

I want to drive the wheel loader......Good looking banshee! :thumbsup:

I would highly recommend the Noss head if you choose to go with an aftermarket head. They are excellant, use the stock studs, and Dave Noss is one of the nicest guys to work with. I ordered one in January, spent five minutes talking to Dave about the head, and we spent about twenty five minutes talking about old-school dirt bikes and three-wheelers. I know I could call him tomorrow with questions, and he will take time to answer them eight months after my purchase. My $0.02.

You are going to have smoke coming out of your ears if you run that bike with 200 main jets, the motor will melt! Try these places for jets and your local Yamaha shop should have them or be able to get them. Sudco Magic Racing Carburetor Parts Warehouse I am sure many other places have jets.

As mentioned, I would also install a TORS elimination kit while you are doing the exhaust, etc. Also, you mention a 2:1 filter, did you purchase this one: If so, you will not need the open air lid, for the whole air box needs to be removed to use the filter above. Maybe Toomey makes a different filter that I am not aware of.

This doesn't have photos, but at least you can read through it. The Motion Pro eliminator kit looks identical to the Toomey kit (caps, cap screws, and idle screws) and the instructions should be equivalent. Banshee Idle Kit Instructions Just make sure to use a good grade of tapping oil and you wil be fine, and make sure you drill and tap the correct holes! Read the link below, it has pictures you might find handy! Idle Screw Pictures Good Luck! :thumbsup:

My buddy calls the '96 red and yellow the "McDonald's Banshee." I can see why, but I don't really find it as funny as he does...

Are you thinking about trying the CR250 ignition?

There are two drain passages: one centered behind the cylinders and one forward of the clutch arm. Neither lead into the cases, so a plug is not necessary if it is the drain passage (at least that is how it is on my 2001).

Yes, the 2001 model was available in all blue and black/white. I was thinking all blue has been an option for many years straight, but I could be wrong about that. It just seems like every time I walked the floor at a (st)ealership, I saw a blue banshee.

It will be three! :thumbsup: I am going with him as well, as soon as I can.

You might want to contact the RIAA (Click Here).

I concur, that is good advice. :thumbsup:

You need to unplug all of the components, not just one switch. The control unit will kill the power if a fault is detected in one of the switches. It is worth the $59.99 for a TORS elimination kit. Toomey, Vito's, Motion Pro, etc. are fine, and appear to be comprised of the same components.

$89.00 for a relocator bracket? Is THIS what you are talking about?

You should be able to just unplug the black box attached to the frame above the left cylinder, the two carburetor switches, and the throttle housing switch. Try it and if the banshee will not run, plug it all back in.

Is this what you are speaking of? Leak Down Testing

That is a nice car! -Clean the carbs -Check float level -Clean the air filter -Install new, properly gapped, spark plugs -Fresh fuel That should make a difference.....I agree, the bent needle should not be the problem, but need it should be replaced.

The '87 and '88 axle housing is different from the '89 and up. It switches from a four bolt to a two bolt set-up and the way it is bolted to the swing arm is different also. On the '87-'88, the housing brackets are on the outside of the swing arm brackets. On the '89 and up, the housing brackets are on the inside of the swing arm brackets. Measure the bracket dimensions on the two swing arms and make sure they are the same. If not, you may have to shim it with spacers. I can tell you that an '05 swing arm did not work with an '88 carrier (a buddy cracked the swing arm on his '88 banshee and had to use the '05 carrier with the '05 swing arm he bought). I will never understand why Yamaha stuck with that design for twenty years , just like the stupid design Suzuki used on some of the Quadracers (that stupid sliding box , I hated that, too). This may have nothing to do with the price of eggs and it may all bolt-up just fine, but it is something to look at.

That is exactly what I was going to suggest. Just make sure you use a lubricant while cleaning the rust off. Take your time and let the pad or wool do the work. I think you will be very surprised when you work them for a while.

That is pretty funny.

Throw up some pictures before you start sanding/blasting/painting.