BellicoseBanshee

How old is the fuel? If it is more than a few months old, put new fuel in, new properly gapped plugs, clean the filter, and clean the carburetors, one at a time, really good (disassemble, clean, and reassemble). That will give you a better starting point.

Any good grade of pre-mix two stroke oil and wet-clutch gear oil will be just fine, similar to the 250Rs you have had in the past. If you are looking for a particular brand, I run Maxima Super M pre-mix (32:1) and Maxima MTL for the gears. You will find many opinions concerning oil mixture and brands. It is kind of like asking which beer does everyone drink! :beer:

Lets say you are mixing 1 gallon of fuel, 128.00 oz. At 32:1, you need 4.00 ounces of oil per gallon. At 33:1, you need 3.87 ounces of oil per gallon. 4.00 - 3.87 = 0.13 oz. Lets calculate percent difference: [E2-E1/(E2+E1)/2]x100% = [4.00-3.87/(4.00+3.87)/2]x100% = 3.30% A 3.30% difference in the two oil ratios is not going to make that much of a difference. As mentioned above, unless I take the time to measure exactly 32:1 on my ratio cup and then swirl some fuel in the cup to get all the oil mixed with fuel, there is a good chance that my mixture is off 3.30% any given day.

The key here is order of operations: () first, then X and /, then + and - . And also remember (a/B)/(c/d) is equivalent to (a/B) x (d/c). Looks like you might have those down. :thumbsup:

That is a good idea..... .....and it just might work.

I agree, I would pull the cover and get it out. Wouldn't want to take the chance of little pieces jamming into things and causing problems. Who knows, maybe nothing would happen, but I think it is worth the time to get it out. My $0.02.

I am not sure that is the best advice..... :ermm: For twenty dollars or so, you can buy a few sets of jets and know exactly what you are installing each time you make a change. I am not trying to give you a hard time, it just doesn't make sense to me.

I concur. Just remember, do not change your oil ratio to troubleshoot a jetting issue. Plug Chop

It would be cool to have treaded posts or nut-plates along the bottom centerline of the tank. The wire harness, cables, etc. could be clamped to the bottom of the tank. Just a thought. :geek: Might make it more of a hassle to pull the tank though.

So does it have real 300s or guestimate 300s? I don't think I have ever heard of anyone drilling out $3.00 jets!

Everyone has his or her own style and taste, but those fenders just do not look right. At least there is another place for a lunch box or a thermos now. And I agree about the fuel mileage, I do not see that happening. Maybe he was drafting! NOT!

Uh oh........time for dajogejr to post up that can of worms!! :yes: You are going to get a thousand different answers from a thousand members. If you do a search, you will find that question answered many times. As for me, I run Maxima Super M Premix (Maxima makes Super M Injector also) in my banshee, mixed 32:1 with 93 octane pump gas. Unless your timing and/or compression requires high octane, you are wasting money buying 112. That's just my $0.02.

As said, I would talk to an engine builder about a port job and work around that.

Back in the day, I quite often rode my LT250R in the snow, but mostly groomed or semi-groomed trails and frozen lakes. I used Pro-Wedge II tires and didn't have too much trouble. Three-wheelers, 250Rs, and Quadracers were pretty popular back then, so I cannot speak from experience as far as the Banshee is concerned.

If it is like this one, it should cover both of them: LT230 Clymer Manual http://www.clymer.com/images/BookImages/PRD_430.jpg

Don't know if it is the best, but here you go: Carburetor Parts Warehouse

Your fuel requirements should be based on compression and/or timing. If you can run pump 93, use it and concentrate on dialing in your jetting. You will benefit more from precise jetting than expensive fuel, no pretty smell though. My $0.02.

Yeah, most people laugh when I mention or whip out safety wire. <--- I guess it is not hard to figure out why I like safety wire. :geek:

I don't think it is hard. If you have done a two stroke before, then you should have no problems. Just read through the manual and follow the steps. I think BigRed350X has a case splitting guide, I will try and find it. Here it is: Splitting the Cases Hope that helps! :smile:

Yeah, you will be very happy if you get your cylinders done before installing that crank, well worth the money! :thumbsup:

The airbox lid holds the stock filter cage in place, so you cannot just remove the lid and run it. You will either need to buy the filter/adapter plate assembly or use self-tapping screws to hold the stock cage to the airbox. The reason dajogejr is telling you to spend a few bucks on some plugs is simple: spark plugs and plug chop = not much money replacing the top end because you think it is fine = much money

Sorry, I should have been more specific, it is an aftermarket head (modquad). EDIT: Referring to my first post, my friend has the aftermarket modquad head. Sorry for the confusion, it's early! :turned:

I am drawing a blank on the name, but you could pick up a couple of screws that have a hole in the head and use 0.020 safety wire to help secure the screws. That might be overkill, though. :ermm: EDIT: Of course, the safety wire chafing the carbs may not be the best.

A friend had the same problem, blew the coolant reservoir bottle cap and coolant soaked the back of the bike. Pulled the head off and found a faulty O-ring. That is the only experience I have with your problem.

Generally speaking, that is true. For that kind of money, I would have two!! :biggrin: