BellicoseBanshee

If I were selling them, I would sell the pair of shocks in one auction and the set of A-arms in another auction.

There is a good chance they will fit a J-arm frame. If you were to look at a J-arm frame, it does not have the vertical frame tube the pipe is touching in one of your pictures (it only has the tube forward of the lower radiator, where the A-arm has a tube forward and aft of the lower radiator; I hope that is described correctly). I think strokerace is right about a different shaped pipe for J-arm frames. EDIT: The fourth picture in the above post.

Do you have stock exhaust on one side and performance exhaust on the other? I am just kidding with you. That is strange. Ideally, both cylinders should have the same level of performance (matching exhaust, carbs, filters, etc.). The main jets should be the same in both carbs. Jetting one cylinder differently than the other is not the best way to solve an engine problem. In your case specifically, one could be correct, or both could be wrong. If your banshee is completely stock, then your 200 main jet is right, or pretty close. How did it run before you took the carbs apart? One side should have been much different than the other.

It appears they only have two sizes, 34mm and 38mm, so it should be easy to determine which size you have. :thumbsup: The measurement locations and dimensions are listed in the link below. Keihin PJ carburetors

These instructions may help: http://www.toomey.com/html/pro-ban.htm

I did not read these, but I hope they help: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...=throttle+cable http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...=throttle+cable I searched "throttle cable" and 14 pages came up :ohmy: , so I just pulled a couple for you. Cheers!

There is no way to completely eliminate the possibility of a stuck throttle. However, you can greatly reduce the chances by inspecting and properly maintaining your throttle, cable, and carburetors. Also, make sure the throttle cable is routed correctly, no sharp bends, etc. that may cause binding.

I do not know personally, but I have read on here before that F.A.S.T. sells them.

FAST racing!! :thumbsup: http://farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=140

Would it be foolish to use these cylinders with T5s, stock carbs, crank, intakes, reeds, etc. until I can upgrade to bigger and better stuff? I guess I am asking if I could "get by" for now?

Yes, the airbox would need to be removed to use pod filters. If you ride in a wet environment, it is a good idea to keep the airbox and run with no lid, or cut and screen the lid, or vent the box, or whatever. I prefer pods, but I do not see much water.

I came across this some time ago while searching the Jetting and Exhaust forum. Scroll down to Q&A number 41, it should help you find a good starting point. The pinned topics at the top of the Jetting and Exhaust forum are good reading also, if you want/need to learn more. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Others with more experience than me will be able to get you squared away if the above is not sufficient. Good Luck! :thumbsup:

Here is another option, if you are interested. RMATV - Toomey products

This is not much help, but I recall reading on eBay's site that all bids must be cancelled before the auction is ended early or the high bid will win anyway (cannot say it is fact). I do not know much about eBay, just thought I would mention that. :ermm: BTW, nice banshee!

That loose screw allows for thermal expansion..... :no: Seems like there might be a better place to mount the rear shock reservoir.

Check this out, saw it a while ago. This is what the others above are referring to. It looks like it works well! :smile: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...4&hl=airbox

Yes, removing that cluttering box made all the difference.

ClimbAnyHill, I love the clean bar area. It looks very sharp! :thumbsup:

I finally realized that I did not have to move my hose. I removed the engine end to flush the system while the stock pipes were removed. After fitting the T5s, I was able to simply install the hose end without relocating anything. I have about 10-15 mm of clearance. Anyway, my T5 system was not hard to install. Just watch for chaffing around the whole system, especially the top of the right side expansion chamber (it has the smallest gap on my system). For those who say the memory is the first thing to go...

Just in case you did not know, you will need a good grade of tapping oil.

I have also heard that Wiseco manufactures them. Super Stock, Power Pistons, and Prolites are all different types of pistons, correct? I know that the Super Stock have the notch on the exhaust side, but are the Power Pistons exactly the same as the Prolites?

I have seen two banshees with Vito's run like crazy. However, I always have and always will use Wiseco Prolite pistons. :cool:

I purchased a head from Noss Machine, and Dave is one of the best. After I recieved the head, I called to ask a simple question. We talked about the head for two minutes and then talked about old school three-wheelers and dirt bikes for about twenty minutes. I would highly recommend Noss Machine to anyone! :biggrin:

I just went out to look at my banshee. The hose comes off the engine, runs between the vertical frame tube and the cylinder head, and then to the bottom of the radiator. The heat shield is torwards the front of the hose. So, I am not sure if I turned mine around, or just repositioned it. It seems like I just turned it around and then routed it so it would not chafe anywhere. I do not remember moving the heat shield like Toomey suggests in the instructions.

Remove the hose and turn it around, and then twist the hose slightly inward to adjust clearance. It worked well on my banshee. Toomey's website has instructions for installation in the technical documents section. Hope that helps. :thumbsup: