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BellicoseBanshee

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Everything posted by BellicoseBanshee

  1. I knew I kept my stock pipes for a reason..... :shoothead:
  2. I concur, it is not that bad and I would also tear it down for inspection. If you do it on a Saturday night, don't drink the oil and put beer in the engine! :ohmy:
  3. If it needs to be bored, you will need: pistons, rings, wrist pins, pin bearings, head gasket, and base gaskets. This kit comes with everything you need: Wiseco Piston Kit. Really good price on parts for a complete top-end rebuild.
  4. I did a quick search on the Michigan DMV's website and here is what it says: Three and Four-wheel All-terrain Vehicles Cannot be Used on Public Roads (Click Here). It would have been cool. :ermm: DMV in every state should have guidelines for ATVs.
  5. Thanks for the heads up, for I had not heard of the bolts breaking before specifications, only when people smoke them down!
  6. Good luck finding a new job, I really hope all works out for you.
  7. Yes, I would suspect that 7.7 would be just fine! Except for my bad luck, mine would break at 7.6! :mad:
  8. You have a good memory, it is 7.4 ft.-lb. :thumbsup: (Clymer, Chapter 6, Table 3 - I am changing mine soon as well, so I have had my nose in the book)
  9. Bansh-eman is talking about the clip position on the needle. The stock needles in your carburetors have five notches at the blunt end. Put the C-clip in the middle position.
  10. I misread it and calculated 0.010 for a banshee, thanks for pointing that out.....
  11. 0.010 is 64.25mm, so 175.08 (350.15 for two). (32.125 X 32.125 X 3.1415927 X 54) / 1000 = 175.08 Piston Chart I would think going in increments of 0.5mm will ensure you get the best bore, but I am not an expert on boring.
  12. The carriers I have purchased in the past came with a steel pin about 6 or 8 inches long. I would only use something that fits snug in the holes. It doesn't take much to mess up the holes in the carrier with something that does not fit correctly. Try using a hardened steel push pin that is not tapered. It should not take much force to turn the carrier.
  13. Welcome and good choice. You will love that banshee and find that your wallet may get thinner. All banshees are basically the same. In 1991, J-arms went to A-arms, the wire harness connectors changed once or twice over the years, a brake light was added in 2002 (?), and heal guards were added at some point. The chain adjustment is a stupid design, but it is not that bad. Many people like Pro Circuit pipes, so no worries there. I would not ever mention boost bottle on this site again...., do a search and you will see why. In fact, take it off and put the stock tube back on. Boost bottles do nothing performance wise and have been known to crack the intakes. Well, that's my $0.02 worth. Good luck next week! :thumbsup:
  14. I read through this once a while ago..... Banshee Electrical FAQ The specifications are listed under the schematic.
  15. Was it wet from washing, or did you run it through water? How bad was the corrosion and rust? Too bad the stator cover does not have a drain screw on the bottom, that would make life much easier. I would still be worried about corrosion, though.
  16. If you use duct tape to cover the carburetors, remove the tape immediatley after washing. If residual fuel contacts the glue on the tape, the glue will melt and make a mess. Ask me how I know. :ohmy:
  17. I was mostly reffering to any casting flaws around the bottom edges, obvious blemishes, etc. I also would not just arbitrarily sand the whole slide. I should have been more clear..... :ermm:
  18. This guy races the I.C.E. series, his fan set-up looks cool, but I don't know how practical it would be anywhere else..... Those fans did not help solve this problem.....
  19. Remove the slides and lightly sand them with fine sand paper, just enough to remove any blemishes. Also, clean and check the carbs for any debris. Check the needles and make sure they are not bent. After drilling the holes for the idle screws, did you clean the hole on the inside of the carbs? Clean everything really good, clean up the slides, check the cable again for smooth operation, and make sure the throttle housing is functioning correctly. Make sure the slide springs are seated correctly when you put the carb caps back on. Hope that helps.
  20. I guess I should pay closer attention, sorry... :shoothead: !
  21. Are you talking about the Toomey 2:1 filter? Or do you mean one of these? I know.....I could not help myself, the side effects of insomnia, I guess. :wallbash:
  22. OK...The TORS has a switch in the throttle housing, a switch for each carburetor, and a black box (control unit) that controls the system. The black box is located above the left cylinder, attached to the frame with one bolt. Make sure the box is not connected to the wire harness. if it is, disconnect it and cover the connection plug on the wire harness end and remove the box from the frame. If you have big blocks on top of the carburetor caps (I didn't see any in your video), you will see that each one has a wire connected to it. Unplug the wires and cover the connection plugs on the wire harness side. The throttle housing has a switch in it. I don't remember off the top of my head where the connection is, but you should be able to unplug it somewhere. Just follow the wire from the housing down towards the wire harness. Cover the wire harness end of the connector plug. You can also remove the switch from the throttle housing and cap the hole in the housing if you want to. That will eliminate the TORS. In your video, it appears that the carburetor switches have been removed and a TORS elimination kit has been installed, so you for sure want to unplug the black box and throttle switch from the wire harness, for they can still cause malfunctions even though the carburetor switches have been removed. I hope all of that makes sense...
  23. A buddy had the same problem earlier this year. We tested all the components that could be tested with a multi-meter. Then we shot the wire harness and found a broken wire. The insulation was fine, so it was not noticeable by observation alone. If I recall, it was the red wire near the front of the harness, a few inches before one of the connectors.
  24. Now I have heard of drilling out jets.
  25. Back in the day, it was Sam Adams, Guiness, Heinekin, Beck's, Pete's Wicked, and others similar to that. Now, it is water, milk, juices, and the occasional splash of fuel (when I am not paying attention while gassing the pig :verymad:).
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