BellicoseBanshee

I concur.

Try sudco.com or carbparts.com.

Maybe it is just me, but it sure looks like the bike bottomed-out... Get well soon. :beer:

After looking at the chart, Snop's recommendation seemed to make sense to me. I am glad that it made a big difference. I am a needle nitpick myself, haha! :biggrin:

Just use your best judgement to determine when the two 'gaps' are equal. A very small discrepancy is not going to cause shifting problems.

I have used both, K&N pods are a better choice. :thumbsup: Also, I highly recommend a Noss head when the times comes.

I like the black cover as well, good choice. :thumbsup:

That is exactly what I was about to add. :thumbsup:

The basket is relatively inexpensive and is EASY to install. theshee's basket thread

0.100 is the maximum the stock cylinder sleeve can be bored. I would not go beyond 0.080, but some people do it and have good results. Your engine, 64.5 bore with the +4mm crank, is 379cc. There are many different possibilities as far as displacement goes. Cubs have 65mm and 68mm bore for stock stroke, 68mm bore for the +4mm crank and many other strokes. The stock jugs can be resleeved with big bore sleeves which makes the engine size around 400cc. There are more options for cylinders as well. If you are really interested in the various combinations, look at websites like Casacde, Trinity, and others, for they have many options listed. CP Industries Inc., the company that does the cheetah and cub cylinders, has some pretty cool stuff on its site. Hope that helps...

ATC250R (yeah I know, it lost a wheel :biggrin: ) and TRX450R. Hondas have been VERY good to me for many, many years. My Banshee is nice to me as well, better throw that out there so I do not have any trouble in the stable tonight...

BigRed350X has a reservoir tank on the rear of his bike.

If you have a manual, it is explained, with good pictures and illustrations, at the end of chapter 5 (Engine Lower End) and chapter 6 (Clutch, etc.). I have only done it with the clutch assembly removed. If it can be done with the clutch installed, I would suspect it would be difficult to do, because the idler gear is in the way. :ermm: EDIT: The shift shaft has a plate on the end of it, with a window, and two spring ends in the window. The adjust bolt sits between the spring ends in the window. When the adjust bolt is turned, it moves the end of the shift shaft plate up and down. The shift shaft plate has another small plate with a hook on each end, and the hooks turn the shift drum using the pins on the shaft star. With the transmaission in any gear but neutral, look at the gap between the upper hook and pin and the lower hook and pin. Turn the adjust bolt until the dimensions between both pins and the hooks are equal. That is the best that I can explain it. The adjust bolt has a jam nut and a tabbed lock washer. Pulling the clutch assembly will be your best bet.

68mm bore and a +4mm crank increases the engine size from stock to 421cc (for example, 421 cub).

For best results: Plug Chop The whole point of using the top gear is to put the maximum load on the engine. The plug chop does not mention this, but it is best to accelerate on a slight incline as well. Using 5th gear would not be the most accurate, but it will be much closer than 2nd, 3rd, or 4th. EDIT: Guess I took too long. :biggrin:

The manual probably says to run the machine at 20:1 as well. If you moved up to 32:1, you have actually richened the air/fuel mixture even though you have reduced the amount of oil in the fuel/oil mixture. Try the 190s first, but don't be afraid to try 180s at your altitude and warmer weather ahead. Also, if it says 32 and above, I can tell you I switch to a smaller main jet when the temperature changes from 65 in the winter to 95+ in the summer. As long as you keep an eye on the plugs, you won't damage the engine moving down a size or two. As I mentioned earlier, dropping the needles one notch may help it run better as well, but you will have to try it and see which way you prefer.

When mine was new and stock, I was running 200 mains, middle clip, 25 pilot, and 1.5 turns out at 2000-2500 feet. Try going down a size or two and do a plug chop. You may want to move the needle down a notch when the main jets are dialed in as well. Whenever I ride the Coral Pink, which is about 6000 feet or so, I drop the needle one notch and it runs much better along with dropping the main jets 2-4 sizes as well. See what is in it, then buy a few sizes smaller and try them. With the warmer weather coming, it would not be a bad idea to adjust the jetting anyways.

I have never used a 1 into 2 setup. The single carb setup gives better bottom end response, but the dual carb setup gives better top-end performance. At least that is how I understand it...

That is correct.

Keihin Carburetors My Air Striker (Honda application) matches the chart, so considering it has 70R stamped on it, it is probably a PWK 35mm. :ermm: Also, as dajogejr mentioned, if you are going to use a +4mm with long rods, you need 795 series pistons, not the 513 series pistons. :thumbsup:

That is correct, plane old +4mm w/long rods. Nothing special... EDIT: Also has the TZ bearing.

Wiseco Pro-Lite 64.5mm bore.

You may have a problem with one of your shifting forks. If memory serves, fourth gear and sixth gear share the same shifting fork. The shift drum grooves could be worn as well. When was the last time the shift mechanism was adjusted for the correct shift shaft gap?

You need to do the main jets before you do the needle. One change at a time for best results.