BellicoseBanshee

The green/yellow wire goes directly to the CDI, the black wire is the ground.

I concur, a good preventative measure... :thumbsup:

Take a look at the wiring diagram (2002 and up, although I have an '01 and it is the same as the '02 and up ) The parking brake switch has nothing to do with the TORS. The parking brake switch wires directly to the CDI. When the parking brake is set, the CDI will not let the bike rev much past idle. Try connecting just the parking brake switch and see if that solves the problem (make sure ALL the TORS plugs are disconnected, as stated above). If it idles perfectly, it is unlikely that the CDI is faulty, for the CDI (solid-state component) will usually fully function or completely fail. Remember, the parking brake switch (black lever on the clutch perch) must also be closed or the CDI will not let the engine rev... EDIT: If the circuit is open when the parking brake is NOT set, then unplugging the connector will not effect engine RPM because the CDI will still sense an open circuit either way. I am not sure how the switch works...

WOW! That is a long time to wait... :ohmy: I have a hard time going a month. Even the early morning runs in the summer are a necessity to my mental health...

Oil change = 1.5 liters Coolant capacity = 2.5 liters

Dumont Dunes Should tell you everything you need to know... :thumbsup:

Just use the root words... surf - act - ent surf = of the sea action = a thing done enter = to go into surfactent = put salt water in your radiator! :thumbsup:

Yes, buy a swing arm that utilizes a round bearing carrier... :thumbsup: EDIT:

I am almost 100% sure the Noss head and the Pro Design head use the same o-rings, but I don't know about the K&T head. Call Noss Machine...

THIS link may help and add to what was posted above... I know it has a section to clean up the harness, wire in a tether switch, and eliminate the key switch...

You will not be disappointed with the Noss head. Product and customer service is top notch...

Clean them really good, then spray a light coat of WD-40 or similar oil and scrub them with extra fine (000) steel wool...works very well. Do small areas at a time, use a small amount of pressure, and keep the areas lubricated. Use tapping oil and fine (00) steel wool to remove stubborn spots, such as rust, riding pant residue, etc. Work the areas that turned blue with the extra fine steel wool and it will look pretty good, too. :thumbsup: Steel Wool Grade Chart :beer:

I am not trying to be rude, but you really should buy a Clymer manual...$30.00... Yamaha Banshee, 1987-2006 EDIT: Beat me to it... :thumbsup:

This is from memory...it is pretty straight forward...THIS 'how to' has a picture of the inside of the clutch cover if you want to take a look. Pull the foot peg off Disconnect the rear brake foot pedal and remove it Drain the gear oil Remove the radiator hose clamped to the clutch cover and drain coolant Disconnect the breather hose from the Tee above carburetors Remove the three screws from the plastic water pump access cover and remove cover Remove the screws from the metal water pump cover and remove cover remove the screws from the clutch cover and remove cover Remove the C-clip, washer, gear, and pin (not sure of the order or exact content of parts off the top of my head, but it is REALLY simple to figure out) Install in reverse order... It is much nicer if you can throw the right front wheel and right rear wheel on milk crates to tip the bike to one side... Clams and Cabbage, I can't keep up with the currency... :laugh:

Good, I was hoping I would not have to get that stuff out of there... :turned:

If you are installing acorn nuts, make sure the studs are screwed down far enough to torque the nuts against the head; you do not want to torque the acorn nuts to the top of the stud. You also want enough length to accommodate the head, copper washers, and leave enough threads for the acorn nuts to grip... Maybe torquing the nut to the stud would continue to screw the stud in and torque the head like a bolt...I have never had that happen and I am not sure if it is good or bad to do that... Are you talking about anti-seize compound? That is what I used...hope that is not causing problems. :ermm:

Years of the banshee, colors :thumbsup:

I always hated it when the augmentor fuel control on some Pratt & Whitney engines coked... :mad:

Does it really surprise you? Next time you just need to include a carton of cigarettes...that will solve the problem. No, I am not trying to slam smokers, just making a point.

Sounds like a bent frame to me as well...

I was quite confident you just had it bass-ackwards... :thumbsup:

Airscrews... Warm up the bike and set the idle slightly higher than normal. Seat the airscrews and then turn out 1/4 turn each. Let the bike set for 20-30 seconds to stabilize and repeat. The idle should increase as you turn the air screws out. If the highest idle occurs: with the airscrews less than 1.0 turns out from seated, bigger pilot is needed. with the airscrews more than 2.0 turns out from seated, smaller pilot is needed. Ideally, you want the highest idle between 1 and 2 turns out...some people may use different ranges... :cool: EDIT: Beat me to it dajo... :thumbsup:

I am glad you enjoyed it! We always have a good time out there. The weather was killer on that Friday, wish I could have thrown some sand with you! :beer: If you know of another place other than ATV Dune 'n Desert, I would be interested to know who else rents out there...

Do you mean the neutral switch cover?

Gee, does that mean I turn it with my left hand... :yelrotflmao: ...I know, that is bad! However, you just know that someone, somewhere will think that. It is kind of like sending the new guy around the engine shop for Moly-B (molybdenum disulfide thread compound) and K9-P. You would be surprised how many walk around looking for K9-P...