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BellicoseBanshee

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Everything posted by BellicoseBanshee

  1. BellicoseBanshee
    Make sure you grind and drill/tap the correct boss on each carb.
  2. BellicoseBanshee
    Do not use the boost bottle. It will do nothing except crack your intakes. Use the stock tube... :thumbsup:
  3. BellicoseBanshee
    I do not recall ever getting a UPS delivery on Saturday... :ermm:
  4. BellicoseBanshee
    I guess I see it differently, that's all. Investing a couple hundred dollars in rarely used tools is a small price to pay when dealing with multi-thousand dollar toys. I do understand your point of view, though... :beer:
  5. BellicoseBanshee
    Manual, flywheel puller, multi-meter, micrometer, feeler gauges, and soldering iron (used one in the dunes once, haha) are some more inexpensive items that make life much better... Can't forget the 'K9-P' :yelrotflmao:
  6. BellicoseBanshee
    A decent torque wrench is also a necessity (unless you have a calibrated elbow :wink: ).
  7. BellicoseBanshee
    Plug Chop
  8. BellicoseBanshee
    I really hate it when a newbie will post a question or problem, and argue with every single person who posts a response (especially if the newbie reads something he or she did not want to hear)... :mad: EDIT: 'Can my Banshee beat a 400EX?' is always a good one...
  9. BellicoseBanshee
    Noss Head... :thumbsup:
  10. BellicoseBanshee
    I am pretty sure the throttle cable for a twist is different than a thumb throttle cable, but the rest of the kit (caps and idle screws) will be the same. The stock throttle cable is useless when the TORS is removed, thumb or twist. THIS should give you an idea of what you need. Many places sell the kits, and they all contain basically the same stuff.
  11. BellicoseBanshee
    I concur, leave it alone...
  12. BellicoseBanshee
    It is a good thing that is not an exhaust bridge, it would probably melt :nuke: , haha...
  13. BellicoseBanshee
    Let me know how it turns out, I am curious to find out what was wrong. :geek:
  14. BellicoseBanshee
    According to the electrical FAQ, the B/R wire needs to be grounded for the engine to run, and when the B/W wire is grounded, the CDI kills the engine. The B/R wire is connected to the black wire when the key is eliminated.
  15. BellicoseBanshee
    What components did you eliminate? Maybe these two schematics can help you figure out where the wires need to be. If all the wires are hooked up correctly, it might be time to start shooting wires and/or testing components. Probably not much help, sorry... Banshee Electrical FAQ
  16. BellicoseBanshee
    Wide Open Throttle. You know, where your thumb usually holds the throttle lever...
  17. BellicoseBanshee
    Come on, there is nothing better than putting your banshee through the garage door... :wallbash: Seriously though, that is not a good idea and the engine must have a load on it to accurately check the plugs at WOT, as stated above.
  18. BellicoseBanshee
    I like to call it a persuader...
  19. BellicoseBanshee
    Ah yes, I remember that one now... :biggrin:
  20. BellicoseBanshee
    I do not recall the diagram you are looking for, but what are you needing help with? A picture of where the idle screws should be installed? Maybe this is the electrical page can help with the wiring portion... Banshee Electrical FAQ...
  21. BellicoseBanshee
    Nice work!! :thumbsup: That connecting rod will make a good addition to the trophy drawer.
  22. BellicoseBanshee
    I never pay for parts that are not in stock, ready to ship... some exceptions apply (depends on who and what). 2 months for a TORS kit, that is a joke. You could carve wooden caps in two months... :laugh:
  23. BellicoseBanshee
    Might as well add an adjustable timing plate and bump the timing. Very cheap and effective modification; Ricky Stator cast plate is $40 and the Pro Design billet plate is $80, either is fine and easy to install.. :thumbsup:
  24. BellicoseBanshee
    Use a very sharp, new is better, razor blade and gently scrape it off. I use tapping oil on the blade as well. Unless sand is stuck to the melted nylon, you should be able to remove it with little or no scrathing. I do it this way and the pipes look fine when I am finished. Works like magic! :sorcerer:
  25. BellicoseBanshee
    I used a medium and then fine file to do mine... It did not take that long to file down the aluminum boss. I also made a depth gage to ensure the bosses were filed down equally and to ensure the depth was 19mm on each side. Make sure the surface is perpendicular to the hole so the lock nut will contact the whole surface of the idle screw boss.

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