BellicoseBanshee

If noise is not an issue and spark is, buy the Turbine Core IIs. If both noise and spark are an issue, but the Q.

I agree, you are better off just buying FMF silencers, the Turbine Core or the Q.

In order to satisfy spark arrestor laws, it must be stamped 'US Forestry Service Approved' somewhwere on the body of the part. Toomey makes a standard hush kit and a USFS hush kit.

For all those who are 'offended,' go to your control panel, find your board settings, and select no where it says 'do you want to see avatars' and where it says 'do you want to see signatures.' It is that simple. I am sure that some people won't like that solution either... :shrug:

No, I don't really need one. They just make me laugh, that's all. Saw a picture of one in a Graydon flyer I received with some parts a long time ago (1995ish) and thought it looked pretty stupid. The same flyer also advertised the blaster cool head and radiator setup...

Does anyone else remember the finned heat exchanger they used to sell for the banshee head? I need one of those... :shoothead:

When my bike was stock, I ran 200s, middle clip, and 1.5ish turns on the air screw at 2000-2500 feet and it ran the best during the winter months (60s) and rich in the summer (+90). With that setup, if I were to go to Sand Mountain, UT to ride, I would go to 180s, second groove from blunt end, and 1.25ish on the air screw and see how it performed. So, with that in mind, 180s are not unreasonable to me, you will just have to try them and see.

The only way to know is to pull the clutch cover, inspect the adjustment bolt for wear and security, and then inspect the gaps between the shift mechanism and the shift star.

Even if the heads are equivalent, and I don't think they are (Noss is better), you will not be disappointed with the customer service at Noss Machine.

Any 90mm exhaust spring should work fine. :thumbsup:

I am pretty confident that he meant 21X7X10 for the front... Front wheel size- 10X5 Rear wheel size- 10X8 You could get away with a different width, especially with the rears, but both sets of tires need a ten inch diameter wheel. Verify the sizes for correct fit when you purchase the wheels.

2 years, 2 months, 7 days or so later, I think his stuff should be good to go by now! Sorry guys, couldn't resist. :biggrin:

Turning the air screw clockwise reduces the amount of air and turning the air screw counter-clockwise increases the amount of air in the pilot system. Warm up your engine, then adjust the idle slightly higher than normal. Turn the airscrews in until they seat and then back them 1/4 turn and let the engine stabilize. Keep turning the airscrews out a 1/4 turn at a time, allowing the engine time to stabilize between changes, until the engine reaches its highest RPM. The air screws should be between 1 and 2-2.5 turns out. If the highest RPM is less than 1 turn (lean), install a larger pilot jet. If the highest RPM is more than 2-2.5 turns out (rich), install a smaller pilot.

Yes, I remember that now... Thanks. :thumbsup:

If you are using acorn nuts, they must torque against the head. Make sure the nuts are not bottoming out against the stud. Are you using the copper washers under the nuts? I also would not recommend lock-tite on the cylinder studs, you should not need to do that. i would not even lock-tite the cylinder nuts either.

Could be worn forks or shift drum, could be damaged gears, it is hard to say. These are not the best shifting engines anyway. I would look at the shift mechanism adjust bolt first. If the shift mechanism is out of adjustment, or if the bolt itself is loose, it can definately cause problems. bansheejoel had similar issues a while back, and his bolt was actually loose if I recall correctly...

It is the eliptical bolt that is used to adjust the shift star/shift shaft gaps. If you have a manual, it is at the end of chapter five. If the gaps are out of adjustment, it can cause problems with shifting. I have only done it with the clutch basket removed, I am not sure if you can access the adjustment bolt and measure the gaps with it installed...

The stock steels have the tab on them, and the stock springs are not gold (at least mine were not). Also, the fibers do not resemble the stock fibers I removed from my engine. I concur, it appears to be aftermarket.

When was the last time you inspected the shift mechanism adjust bolt (the one behind the clutch cover, lower left corner)?

If those compression numbers are acurate, there is quite a discrepancy between the two as well...

FireHead, your page setup is awesome. Your actions look nicer than some of the clowns that seemingly do it for a living on fleaBay. :thumbsup: BUMP!

Replace the boost bottle with the stock crossover tube, it is known to rip the intakes if it already hasn't. Fuel requirements should be based on compression and timing. High octane fuels are not good for engines that do not require them. Stock Timing- premium fuel up to about 160-165 +4 Timing- premium fuel up to about 150-155 Proper jetting is also very important. A well jetted bike will run harder than a bike with half-ass jetting... PORTING is the key to real power with stock cylinder engines. :thumbsup:

Picture is worth a thousand words. Do not buy a spark plug lock... :ermm:

It reminds me of the one made by gigot racing...

I agree, Haulers all the way.