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Check your wiring harness. I dicked around with my shee having a problem with anything above idle and it turned out I had a short in my harness. If your parking brake switch is malfunctioning it will do the same thing. Idle but when you try to rev, it bogs and misses. If thats the case, disconnect the wire that comes off the clutch lever and see if it works. Thanks to all the guys on BansheeHQ for that little tidbit of info!!!

I do have stock carbs but with TORS elimination kit. That was originally part of my problem and in doing so I removed the park brake switch, throttle switch, and all the other saftey junk. The boost bottle can't hurt though right? It's already on and it was free soooo.... you really think i should ditch it? Also, will the cool heads or v force reeds affect reliabilty? With the price of those v-forces, will I be able to REALLY feel a difference? I own a LOT of toys and I just like to ride and do the usaul maintenance. I understand toys ARE maintenance but I don't want something that I have to constantly pull carbs on to keep it running right?!?

Just wanted to thank everybody that replied to my question about this topic. Turned out to be a short somewhere in my wiring harness. Bought a brand new harness from Yamaha and now she runs like, well, a banshee out of hell!!!! This is my first banshee and I absolutely cannot believe how fast this thing is with the few mods I have. K and N's, FMF pipes and a boost bottle and this thing is so friggin fast!! But you know how it goes, I want more power!! What are some other mods I can do without sacrificing reliability? Does a cool head, reed cages, or other things help quite a bit? Like I said I don't want to be tuning every ride, I just want to know if there is anything else I can do that won't make it "finicky". Thanks again for all your help! Now let's go RIDIN!!!!!

Also, the headlights/tailight are not working. I don't know if it is related. Does anyone know where an electrical schematic is for 2000 banshee. I downloaded the manual off this site but it does not inlcude parking brake circuit.

Well so far I've tried everything you guys minus removing coil thats my next thing.I tried everything with the parking brake switch . I disconnected parking brake switch wires, pushed in button manually with wires connected and also put a jumper wire across terminals on engine side to make a closed circuit. Still won't come off idle. Dunno?!?!

Yes I have new carbs without tors tops and I doubt its to rich. The main jets are 200's right now with fmf pipes and a boost bottle

I completely dissasembled and thoroughly cleaned both carbs. This is actually a new set of carbs becaue i thought they might be the problem. two sets of carbs and exact same problem. Yes this problem was present before I removed TORS

I removed the TORS according to the walkthrough and disconnected the parking brake switch on my she but she STILL will not come off idle. My next thing I can think of is the ignition box. Shee idles like a dream but as soon as i try to rev anywhere past idle, she bogs and misses but stays running. I think it's an aftermarket box under the seat towards the rear, do they go bad, or can I adjust timing or what?!?!?! If I put my hand over a carb while I try to rev it, it spits fuel all over my hand, so I don't think it's a lack of fuel, its just that shee won't burn it. Hoping I didn't buy a problem bike but who knows. HELP!!!!

The air screws are 1 and a half out. Where do you think I should be on needle postion with the 260's?

I recently posted in the reapirs section about my shee bogging off idle. I think I have worked all the kinks out of disconnecting the TORS so now I think it's jetting because know it seems like it wants to get off idle as before it would just bog and die. I am in Reno NV which is 4500 ft above sea level. The only mods are fmf gold series and a boost bottle. There are 200 mains in right now and i have 260 mains off another set of carbs that i have not tried yet because they didn't seem to work on the last carbs. I'm sure 200's are a little lean so can anyone give me a good place to start so i don't have to buy 50 jet sizes to get it right? Also where about should needle be, it's at center right now. Thanks!

You both sound exactly right. It stays running but will not rev and sounds like its underwater. I took off that switch and pushed it i but it does not change anything. Is that switch supposed to be open or closed to run? If i disconnect it, do I put the wires together, or leave them apart? Thats exactly what it sounds like though, a rev limiter so to speak. Maybe that switch is bad?!?!?

I disconnected the TORS box under the gas tank. Still no change. What is the small line between the carbs for? I thought it was just for the choke. Also has always been running extremely fat when you try to roll of idle even with 200 main jets. Super smoky and starting to drip fuel out of silencers. Fuel is fresh 91 pump gas with 40:1 yamalube. Could timing have anything to do with this and if so where/how do you adjust?

If I disconnect the throttle wires it won't even start. How do you know if the sliders are in the right carbs. Are they marked?

I am not sure if I disconnected the TORS completely. is there a walkthrough online somewhere? I removed the thumb throttle and replaced with twist throttle so I know that is disconnected. The wires that went to the thumb throttle are spliced together and the other ends that go to the carbs are disconnected. What else do i have to disconnect or connect? Thank you. Yes the hose that connects the two carbs seems to be alright but i replaced it to be sure.

Well like I said the jets before were 260s and it did the same. The plugs were wet. I am in Reno Nv which is about 4000 ft above sea level