MotulMonsta

Motion pro and toomey and terry cable makes a tors removal kit. Terry cable also makes a thumb throttle, but it will need to be modded to work right. You can get oem from Yamaha of troy Aka troy racing or try east coast ATV and score a used one...Thumb throttles are pricey and you'll get what you pay for...a $50 used one might be missing parts or bushings worn out..so beware...I wouldn't get one through Ebay..unless it's brand spanking new.

Stock cdi's are junk. I'd spend the money and go aftermarket. But with a dyna, you got to take the timing advance out before you run it.

My money's on low oil..heat up too hot and they debond from the metal.

Um..Heims are lined with teflon..WD-40 contains petrolium distilates..Petrolium distilates ruin teflon. They cause it to swell. Your best bet with Teflon is to run it until it's no good and replace. Clean it with Alcohol and or mild detergent and water.

After you got the jugs off, turn it over by hand and check to see if the tranny is hanging up...You're probly going to need to split the cases so pick up a manual and give it a good lookin' at.

You running stock coil and stock timing? You have BR8ES plugs in (Yes it does make a diffrence) The brown and blue wires don't get connected unless your running a tach or some other rpm monitering device.

Well, It could have managed to get snagged on the actuator. try getting a good hold of it and squeeze the clutch in and out...it should come free..if it don't, rip that bitch out by any means possible..there isn't much to damage if you have already pulled the clutch itself off and your left with the rod stuck inside the hole...you'll need to pull out your actuator and make shure that's good as well.

My first time on a shee was 8 years ago..I'll never forget it. I remeber saying "This ain't shit!" But it was a tired old 87 which I still have to this day. That's dedication. I race it and pound the living dogshit out of it every time I ride. My freinds have a running joke when I talk about riding..they always ask me "So, what did you break this time?" And I'll usualy say..This weekend was pretty good, I only broke..Yadda yadda..or..This week end sucked, My machine outlasted me! I busted my..Yadda yadda"

Hey, here's some tips to keep the fun going..get yourself some quality dust masks..3m makes good ones. You know the ones that cover your nose and mouth, the white kind. they should fit good under your goggles and not hit the chin guard. You'll thank me when you smile and there isn't a ton of coal grit in your teeth. Also bring extra filters if you got them, filter cleaners and filter oil...Don't run K&N's, coal dust will pass right through it. If your in the back, You'll be eating a lot of coal dust. Get a good belly pan for your ride and a Quality swing arm guard..stock ones won't hold up for long if you like to pound rocks. Bring Master links and tire plugs...keep them on you when you ride. Hopfully somebody else besides me will bring a foor pump. Is somebody going to bring a utility machine? Can you say GAS BIATCHE' and Drink BITCH!

DG makes the best nerfbars on the market.

Hmmm..I need to take another look at my reeds..Learn somthing new everyday.

Start by checkin your key, make shure it's on, then makeshure you have a good ground when you check your plugs..head bolts are a good place to check. Next if still no spark, go over all the wiring and check for broken or melted wires..particularly by the airbox. Then after ALL the wires have been inspected, pull the stator cover off and makeshure everything is good. Try disconnecting and reconnecting the plugs on the cdi and tap on the cdi..moisture builds up on old cdi's and grounds them out. next disconnect the tors from the carbs and from the little black box next to the coil. If you still don't get a spark it's time to consult a manual for specific test regarding Tor's system, cdi stator and coil.

Is it a honda style rear end or is it still a banshee bullshit setup? On the honda style round house bearing carrier you take the left wheel off, take the nut all the way off, remove the chain from the rear sprocket and take the sprocket boss off the axle then disconnect the rear brake caliper and slide the axle through to the right. then pull the axle carrier out through the left.

AHH run it till it blows!! That's my motto. Then fix her up...I'll do a rebuild every 2 years or so. So if it isn't giving you any real issues, don't waste your money if your happy..just remember..when a motor decides to go, it might not give you a warning.

X-33's use pins instead of splines for the hubs right? I got no issues with my 4 year old LS axle..takes a beating and keeps on going.

My quad's got numbers on it..look for 261...You'll find me shreddin' up some coal hills and tearin ass down the trails.

Wide range of terrain. Holeshots will load up in goey sticky mud, but they'll do good everywhere else. Realtors will work decent in every terrain..but it's no race winner.

Your puttin the choke on while tapped out in 6th? It should start running like shit. If it runs better with the choke on your lean.

I'm sorry, I missed it.

SHIT I missed 14 min of it!!

Hop ups: FMF Fatty Gold Series Pipes - good midrange pipes..hoped they're chromed as they will be eaier to clean Power Core Silencers - standard fmf silencer Hydraulic clutch - Is it magura?? That's a 250 dollar part and worth it's weight in gold!! Make shure you call up Magura and get extra oil and a spec sheet. Boost Bottle - junk Tag Triple Clamps - good clap setup for running tag handle bars Tag Handle Bars - good bars that use no crossbar to hold them together..looks trick Prodesign Intake -MONEY!! 295 dollar part supposed to increase airflow into the cylinders V Force Reeds - best damn reed system evermade Douglas Rims -basic aftermarket rims Holeshot Tires - greatest tires ever made for an atv Renthal Sprokets - shittiest sprockets evermade..if they are aluminum..get rid of them now and pick up steel sprocket specialist, sunstar or even OEM sprockets ..do this before you drop a chain. Alloy Nerf Bars - basig top of the line DG nerfbar..what every other nerf \bar aspires to be Shock Covers - keep mud off your shocks..make shure you remove them from time to time to clean up the dust and let the shock breath so springs don't rust DG Alloy Nerf Bars - see above note DG Sissy Bar - for sissies..no it's a good grab bar. AC bumper - junk All in all a good start for a modded machine.

Who's the chick in your Avatar..she's cute. Anyways..If your gettin 20's, I suggest getting the 10in rim. They'll hold up well and with less sidewall flex, they'll grip alot better and slide easier in the turns. I ran a set of 20's on 10's and my rear wheels held up fine..190 douglas' are good rims..Now if you jump alot..they will bend but a ballpeen hammer will fix it right up. 20's on 9's won't work well, you'll have a tall tire with a tall sidewall..mightas well get ballon tires cause that's how it's going to ride. 9 in rims are good on 18 in tires for MX. 20's on 10's are a good combo..plus if you run cross country you can always dump a set of 22's on there for more clearance. But if your running moto-x..I suggest 18's on eather 8's or 9's. 20x10's a great trail and general purpose tire. As far a weight is concered a 20x10 will be lighter then 20x9 as the rubber weighs more then the aluminum.

They get it from other rabid animals. but since it's just a baby..maybe it doesn't know any better. keeps some nuts and stuff outside and get a corn on the cob feeder thingy it might come back and hang out. They like bird seeds and sunflowers too.We would build squerrel nest and put em up in trees..keeps em out of the attic.

I don't have a clue on what you all are talking about.

If it's free..then It's for me..simple as that. I don't f*ck with a good thing