MotulMonsta

Molybendiumdysulfide is the best grease on the market. Makes your bearings last foerever..My swingarm bearings are over 4 years old along with my axle bearings.

That's raw fuel..it's running rich.

Quick test. With the bike in neutral, start it up, then with the clutch in, engage first..does it stall or lurch forward? No then it's good on that account..if it lurches or stalls, it's out of adjustment and a simple turn of the adjuster should fix that..now then you let out of the clutch does it go forward? If yes then it's good, if no your cluch is shot. Now when you get on the gas REAL hard, does it move and when in a high gear, do you feel a chatter? If no then the clutch is good if yes then it's slipping..like if rpms go up but not speed..that's slip..if the rpms go up then the speed goes up then the rpms go down..that's slip as well.

There is a huge spark increase when you get rid of all the TOR's and light wires. I got my harness down to 3 wires..Orange, black and black w/white stripe. I also trashed my voltage regulator. Dyna makes a damn good cdi and it's cheaper then stock. I'd replace your wiring harness or at least go over it wire by wire and repair it as required before you drop in a new cdi..it could be as simple as a bad connection(remove the old harness completely, then cut it open and trace wire by wire and use a multi-meter to measure resistance and continuity). Also check the wires out of the cdi..the plastic wears down and breaks which will cause it to ground out and not spark.

Does it run better now?

You don't have a shitty assed terry cable throttle cable do you?

Keihnin's have a nipple on the barrel after the slides..make shure they are sealed up. Those carbs did work right at some point in time right? When I first got my 28's they did the same thing. but it had 135's from the factory..I had to get every size from 150-180 to get it to jet right. I'm now at 165 with 30 pilots I belive...might be 35's..Anyways.. does it run better with both chokes out? Is the tor's black box disconnected? It shouldn't run at all after you kill the motor..that's bad mojo. something isn't right in your electrical wiring...unless it's detonation..REALLY bad mojo. try disconnecting the trottle cable from the thumb throttle then cycle the slides by hand..make shure they both move even and smoothly then check your idle gap..both slides should sit the exact same hight when at idle next move them up real slow paying attention that they move in unison. then try to start it up. If it does the same thing..swap carbs then try again...the whole time with the cable disconnected from the thumb throttle.

Well, If you put a larger shock...you will loose travel by how much longer the shock is to the stock legth...If the stock shock is 14 in long and you stuff a 15 in shock in there, you will loose an inch of wheel travel. So you can stuff a 19 in shock on your machine but you'll loose 5 inches of travel. The trick is to get more travel from the shock itself while retaining the stock legth..AKA a longer shaft and shorter shock body. Also if you notice when you get rebound ajusters on front shocks, you'll loose travel..up to an inch from some makers..that's because the rebound ajuster will add to the total shock length and since that lenght isn't reletive to the total travel the piston itself has..you'll loose it. So, I'd recomend buying a specific shock to work with your particular setup. If you put on +2 arms and ran the stock shocks, You'll blow those shocks up in a week of hard riding. Those shocks are barly good enough to support a stock front end. But if you stuck a 19 in long travel shock on a stock front end, you would only get like 3 in. of travel and it would worse then the stockers. So, get your A-arms but don't put them on until you get the shocks..or buy shocks for your machine now and just revalve them to work with aftermarket A-arms so long as those A-arms retain the stock shock mounting charecteristics. You need to call up the companies and ask what sus. you need to run their products. Here's a good story. I bought works shocks for my stock front end years ago..then I got +2 A-arms..well the front shocks were garbage with that setup so I sent them out to be revalved..well I never had the spring rates changed and ended up seizing the shock and bending the shaft after 1 race on it.

But remeber with a single carb setup..it'll be an expensive project and depending what one you get, you might need a new airbox setup. With the mods you got, I'd drop a set of 28's Kehnin pwk's and wait on porting when you blow your motor up or get a top end rebuild. Because when you do, you can port the motor to work best with your mods..what I did I had a set of 28 pwks years before I got portwork and had the motor ported to work with my T-5's and 28's My Banshee is a fucking screamer. Carb sync is pretty simple. It takes some time to get it right..but I've been doing it so long, I can eyeball it right on the money. Oh if you get Kehnin pwk's you'll need reed spacers in order for the float bowl drain to clear the clutch arm and when you get the spacers you'll have to trim up the air boots to fit and modify the airbox front mount post to make it easier to get off.

Black wire with a white stripe and a solid black wire. Least that's the 87's color code..not shure if they changed the colors over the years.

Well..here is the funny part. Bashee ignition 101: Remember at all times on a banshee ignition..both plugs fire at the EXACT same time. So if #1 was a TDC and fires, #2 would fire at BDC. In essence each plug fires twice per rev. With that in mind simply swiching plug wires won't make a diffrence as each plug will fire regardless of what cylinder it is. You can pull out both plugs and kick the machine over, if they both spark..all is good. If only one sparks you got a bad plug wire or your cdi is bad. If it's sparkin' then the stator is puttin out juice. It has two knubs on it and a pick-up asy. You can check the gap of the knub to the pickup..I set mine to where it's 10 thousandth of an inch away with a feeler gauge. Then clean up the contacts. If your spark gets better, then your stator is weak and might need to be rebuilt. The cdi Is a harder beast to fix. If your bike sparks then doesn't spark then sparks again followed by only one side sparking then the other then it dies completely for 10 kicks then fires up again..that's a bad cdi. A good ignition will spark both plugs at the exact same time twice per revolution every time you kick it over. Now onto the carb. Both carbs are setup exactly alike? And if it's the #1 carb that dies and you swap it to the number 2 side and then the number 2 side dies...well that carb is out of wack. Does the carb have a little nipple after the venturi(in front of the slide on the barrel asy that goes into the intake of the motor)? If it does, enshure that the caps are properly installed..If you don't have a cap, run a tube to connect both carbs together. Now you need to uncrew EVERYTHING from the carbs..I mean everything that will come apart NEEDS to come apart..if they are Kehnins then you can break everything down on that carb into like 40 pieces...Anyways, there are a shitload of air passages that could be clogged and a simple spraying of carb cleaner won't be able to get. You can remove the needle valve seat and the tube should have a shit load of little holes in it..clean that..then remove your air screw all the way out, take the choke all the way out remove the jets..both pilots and main and remove the main jet housing also make shure your not getting any vapor lock from the bowl by cleaning it up and pulling out the drain screw. Do the same for both carbs. Next mesure the exposed portion of the idle scew by hand and set both carbs exactly alike Also bottom out both airscrews on both carbs and then set them exactly alike makeshure your floats are exactly alike too. After you have everything together pull your slide asy. apart and chech each needle to beshure they are not bent and they are both the same and setup the same. Chech your slides makeshure they are the same. There are shitload if pathways in your carbs and they all must be clean in order to work right. If after all this, you still can't get them to work, you might have faulty carbs and you should send them back.

Are your motor mounts tight? If the engine is cocked in the frame it would throw pipe alignment out. Did you try bending the mount bracket? I had clearence issues with my toomeys a while back..minor problem really, I just didn't like how it was rubbing gainst the frame..well a little tweaking of the mounting bracket on the pipe did the trick.

Try de shelling the nuts and breaking them up...you can soak them in water to get them a bit softer.

Yep they can become rabid so I wouldn't f*ck with him until you got him checked by a vet. Is it foaming at the mouth? does it walk in a lopsided circle? Maye it's somebody's pet and yes you can get rabies by touching fur...If the animal has licked itself, it's rabies ridded saliva will be all over it's fur and your hand where it will eather enter your mouth or seep into your skin giving YOU rabies.

Good tip. If your running after-market suspension and like me it has a remote res. and you mount it on the sub frame rail right above the chain tucked nicely under the fender with good acess to the dampening knob..Make shure you check that it doesn't interfere with the chain's travel range. After 4 years with my res. in the same position, I somehow managed to knock it in just a bit and my chain ate up the underside of the res. damn near causing it to rupture. Had I just taken 5 more min. to look things over, I could have avoided a now costly repair...as I'm going to buy a new rear shock and send that one out along with some busted up old frond shocks to be rebuilt. Least I'll have two complete sets of shocks now.

Get yourself a manual and look at the wiring diagram. If you notice, all the tors wires run together inside the harness, if you spit open the harnes, you can remove all that junk by cutting only 3 wires...Carb wires and the little black box...you then can pull out like miles of wire and throw it in the trash..it realy helps to clean up that damn harness and make trouble shooting other issues a lot easier...pus it looks better.

Pull off the mufflers and see if it starts better. Cheapest way to find out. If it's like brand new, how did the mufflers get all rusted already, mine were 14 years old before they literaly fell off while I was riding.

Delta reeds for the banshee eaither 1 2 or 3, isn't adjustable..There isn't enough room left over with that big cage crammed in the cylinder to fit a reed tensioner.

Your shifter is out of adjustment...It's not engaging the shift star and moving it through to the next gear, instead it's getting hung up on something.

Naw dude, your compression is good, your starting issues lie elsewhere...I'd say it's electrical. Clean up all the contacts on the flywheel and pickup..then clean up all the connections in the wires. Water will condensate on the flywheel and cause hard starting. You say it idles fine and runs good right? How old are the reeds? I had starting issues for a while on my shee..someday's it would fire right up, other it wouldn't..then after I had it running and shut it off it wouldn't start back up..well needless to say it was quite aggrevating and after I replaced my coil twice, rebuild my stator and dropped in a new cdi did my starting woes end..Oh and I got a brand spanking new wiring harness as well.

Meat, I'm from N.J..But My grandparents on my mother's side are from Shamoken Which is also where my great grandparents are from. I got family on my dad's side in Waymart Pa. But I'm in Tenn. right now finishing up my stint in the Army which will end on friday then It's back home for a while. I do know this, It's easy as hell to get lost up in those mountains, but there is a highway that circles around..I know this because I had my Banshee towed after I blew the motor on coal hill..and I waited forever on the side of the road for my dad to ride back across the one mountain and to the valley where we had the van parked at. Oh, the funny thing about the dogs, I was putting along the trail when like 10 of the damn mutts came out of the bushes..I was like "Cool dogs" and slowed down..but that's when they charged me and I gassed it and made traction out of one mutt and another ate a shitload of rocks..I didn't stop..they were inches from taking a bite out of my foot...they can run pretty damn fast too. There is all kinds of cool shit in those mountains..left over mining gear..old mining shafts left open, old buildings everywhere..I know there is someplace to swim, an old mineshaft that the water is too acidic for fish and algea to live..it's also REAL deep. Clean water too. I remember they had huge D-9 bulldozer hanging out in the middle of a trail. This damn thing was HUGE tall as a 3 story house. I think I'm game on Coalfest..But I do know my Bro and I are going to be riding there anyways once I get home.

Now THAT's a fucking motor.

Ethenol isn't good on your motor if your not set up to run it. It's like buying 87 octane fuel then adding octane booster to it so it won't knock. It's junky fuel.

A nice SKS or a russian built ak-47 will add a nice terrorist decor to anybody's trunk..properly highlighted with 100 rd drums and 30 rd magazines with spare bullets and assorted knives will definatly add to the flavor. Browning 50 cal Ma duece will make a perfect bed mounted traffic cannon. But Russian weapons are cheaper and easier to come by.

Track must have gotten pretty nasty with all that loose dirt.