MotulMonsta

Well, first you got to know the weight of you and the machine. Then you need to figure out how many pounds the spring is rated for..I forgot how to get the spring rate..somthing about the diameter of the spring and how many coils it has..then after you got the right spring you need to make shure the valving is right..there is all kinds of complex formulas to use..your better off sending the shock to a good shock builder and have them set it up for you.. But I imagine you just want to know how to adjust the damn thing...the damping adjustor is on the res. when you turn it clockwise it will increase the damping rate..counter clockwise will decrease...when you increase the damping it makes the shock stiffer and more resistant to bottoming out. On the bottom of the shock there is a rebound adluster..same as the top clockwise increase..when you increase it the shock will rebound faster...rebound is the amount of time it takes the shock to return to it's normal position...preload is all in the springs. you want as little preload as possible. pre load is/ or should be used only to adjust ride hight. Too much preload will cause the shock to be bouncy..too little and your spring will become too slack on the shock and could fall out of place and do damage. It will take time for you to properly dial in your shocks. You can compensate for lack of damping with preload, but then your rebound rate will skyrocket..you'll be running on the spring at it will become bouncy and not stick to the ground verywell. A rebound rate that's too slow will cause the shock to "pack up" and then bottom out. Too much damping will cause you not to use all the availible travel and gives a harsh ride.

Unless your always running fast and tapped out in 6th gear, I don't think it'll be worth the effort. Besides, you gain big ponies when you simply take the airbox lid off.

That sounds like a time saver..I hate polishing my shiny stuff because it will end up taking all damn day..

If your running a stock ride, your just asking for trouble. Those front shocks won't last long if your trying to clear 30' doubles. Plus it'll be hell on your entire machine. Stock swingarm is crap and it will break on you, plus with all that abuse don't be suprised if you shit a spindle upon a harsh landing. Jumping is all about commitment. If you belive your going to make it, 9 times out of 10 you will, but if you doubt yourself, you'll crash and eat it big time. You know, I've crashed more times then I can remember and Coming up short is painfull, but if you overshoot it, it's just as bad..that hurts too..I remember this one time at my local track, the owner changed this big tabletop step-up and had the landing ramp too short with a nice g-out at the end of it..needless to say I overshot the landing..by a mile.. landed ass end in the g-out and just crushed my balls on the gas tank and split my lip on the cross bar..shit hurt...I had to stop riding for like a half hour to stop the blood and let the swelling go down. But I was back at it.

Run the fronts at anywhere from 7-10 psi and the rears at 3-5 psi..the softer the ground, the lower the psi...If it too rough, let a little air out to soften up the ride a bit.

You can pick up a stock 98 frame for less then 800 bucks, all you would need is a set of a-arms and mounting hardware. It's not too expensive and it's cirtainly cheaper then buying a brand new atv. Hell I did that to my 87 and I did a total rebuild with +2 a-arms and custom axis shocks.

Level 12...I quit!! 3 hours down the drain.

there's a key card upstairs

head..type head

I'm at the same spot. Don't have a clue..but there are letters...hmm

one where you add the numbers to equal the sum up top?

Right now I'm stuck in the room with the chess board and clock..

Go in the other room, move the rug, f*ck with the blocks till they fall, then move the curtain on the window..get the batteries out of the radio..there is a screwdriver somewheres..get the bulb from the bike and put the batteries and the bulb in the flashlight. next use the fire hose to climb down the hole. the key is in the basement.

I'm at the part with the tubes and colored wheels...Where's the red wheel at?

Shit, I can't get that fucking head to follow the line!!

I raced a kid with a 2 to 1 pipe and trinity 2 to carb system..Didn't really impress me much. My old toomey t-5's just ate him up for lunch on the holeshot..but then again I have a bit more money sunk into my bike. He was pretty fast. Banshee's a top end machine..You need to exploit that advantage. I run my bike like it's going out of style throttle pinned, clutch smokin' and wheels churnin up roost. If you got the skills to keep her screamin' nothing will be able to touch you.

I check my spark by pulling the plugs out, popping them back in the plug caps, ground them against a head bolt and kick it over by hand. If you don't see spark from both plugs..somthing up. The plugs will spark at exactly the same time regardless of which plug goes to what cylinder. They should spark on every kick. If it doesn't make shure you got a good ground..keep trying until you get spark...or until you get so overly frustrated that you kick the machine and call it a stupid piece of shit and walk away.

I liked it.

The PD water impeller slows the colant flow down for a more even less agitated flow. The PD need to be broken in before it will work at it's best. With the coolent flowing slower and smoother, it will soak up more heat from the cylinders and cool off better in the radiator. It works like they claim and I have no complaints..except for a buzzing noise from my water pump. But I have yet to overheat since I installed it and if your wondering about power loss..it's negligable..I pull holeshots on 250r's. Oh my PD impellar is over 3 years old so it's pretty reliable as well. It will rob power because it rubs on the water pump housing. Once it's broken in..I.E. wears to the housing..it'll be good for years to come.

Dump the key all together and just run a tether switch. So long as you keep it a closed circut kill meaning the wires must make a connection in order to kill the motor you'll be fine. I suggest viewing a wiring diagram for your banshee. I belive the ignition wires are black solid and black with a white stripe...not shure.

You could be leaking pressure through the case halves or crank seals. As the bike gets warmer, the metal expands and seals it up better...just a thought.

If your machine is bogging, I'd try to isolate the problem before moddifing it. Because If you mod it, you could make it even worse or do some major engine damage. First thing I'd do is drop in a nice new set of plugs, then I'd dump all the gas out and put new fuel in. Then I'd run it and check the plugs. If it's rich, jet it down until it's a nice toasty brown..if it's lean (plug is white) jet it up until it's a nice toasty brown. If your bog is still there, time to check the reeds, carb sync and make shure your airfilter is CLEAN. After you determined the intake track is good, check the exhauset for good seals. If everything checks out fine, now it's time to monkey with the carbs some more. Find out exactly where it bogs at..if it right off idle, your pilot jet could be the wrong size..you can compensate by adjusting the airscrews, but only to a point. If it's midway at like half throttle try changing your needle circlip. If thst don't solve it or atleast help, You got bigger issues that will take way more time to fix

One lead is a ground and that won't have any resistance.. the orange wire is the hot wire...that's where you sould get a reading. Both plugwires should read the same seeing as they are part of the same circut. If you have a diffrent reading between the two plug wires..your coil is bad..if that diffrence is minor like .1 ohm..it should still be o.k...but of it like 3 or 4 you should test out a new one. Now your stator is another story...I don't know the test requirements off hand but you can get them in a good shop manual like Clymer for the banshee.

I had an old set of plugs that would come loose.. I slapped some new ones in there and problem solved.

Nope, Here's the list Stock for stock Honda 1989 trx 250r Sizuki LT500 Quadzilla Sizuki lt 250 Yamaha yfz 450 Honda 450 Then a Banshee.