MotulMonsta

How much port work did you get done? If it's been ported for top end and you have a major increase on the top of the exhaust port, it will always be peaky. The only way to fixit is to get it re-sleaved and differnt portwork done to maximize low end power. On my shee, the v-force reeds smoothed out my powerband and gave me way better throttle response. But I run toomeys and I got mine setup for mid-top end power and that's where it likes to be ridden. I race MX with it..yeah it's a bit harder to keep it under power in the turns, but fancy clutch work keeps it in the meat.

Lonestar make great products and have a faster turn around time. Leager and roll design might make you wait a few months..but lonestar can make it for you in weeks...that is if they don't have anything in stock. Now, an aftermarket chassis will run you over 2 grand..is it worth the money? especialy if your racing and know your going to crash some time or another..A tweaked 2000 dollar frame is worse then a tweaked 600 dollar frame. As far as A-arms and swing arms Lonestar make damn good product, but the ball joints will bend if your not setup right...I went through 3 sets of ball joints due to bending while I was dialing in my front end. Leager makes damn good A-arms So does Roll design with their Lobo front end that uses Hemi joints instead of ball joints..it's stronger, but you loose a little adjustability and you pay a bit more for a lobo then a standard ball joint type front end. If price and time arn't a concern, I'd go with roll design. There is also Gibson But I Don't belive Gibson makes frames..They do have a longtravel kit for the banshee though. Gibson is basically High performace side of east coast atv. I don't know if Walsh racecraft makes Banshee parts, but they do make 250r racing rolling chassis. There are a shit load of aftermarket guys out there selling stuff. Pick up a copy of ATV sport Magazine or 3&4 wheel action mag. Dirtwheels has a shitload of advertising so when I'm looking for a place to get stuff or what's new, I'll pick up those three mags. Oh, Leager's Mx racing shasis for the Banshee with the honda geometry (Basicaly a honda with bashee plastic and motor) is one wicked setup..especialy with long travel front end..That thing will turn! Handles great.

Your running a stock swingarm I take it..That chain tensioner isn't going to help you out all that much, You'll still drop your chain if it's too loose, It's merly designed to keep the chain from slapping...I don't belive they offer it for a banshee. The stock chain adjuster system can go out of wack very easily. I suggest you look it over and tight up and align everything bofore you slap on that spring loaded chain roller. If your axle's cocked your still going to drop your chain.

You don't have an inline fuel filter I take it.

yes it will.

The 101st as a whole didn't deploy to afganistan. But I'll tell you this, 7-101 got fucked royaly. Like you said not two weeks back from Afganistan, they had to turn around and deploy to Iraq. They kept a sign in front of their encampent with the number of days deployed..It was at 495 before they were told they had to remove it. Least that was the number on it the last time I saw it.

I'm in the same boat, Don't know if the T-6's will give me more HP over my T-5's..But chrome would be nice. I called Toomey, they told me T-5's are better for ported motors. But he also told me T-6's make a bit more overall power.

Try turning out the air screw. You can get close to 5 turns out before it will fall out.

I run Molybendum disulfide (spelling) grease in all my bushings and bearings. It's great grease..I have swing arm bearing and axle bearings hitting their 4 year mark on this stuff. I race MX so everything takes a beating and if you can get a year out of your swingarm bearings..that's good..so 4 years is fucking outstanding. If you ride through a lot of water, you'll need to lube up your stuff more often..like once a month but If you run in dry areas you can go as long as three months. If you have bad seals, no amount of lubing will save you.

They way I do it, I never use gas that's more then a week old in my shee..So I always get fresh gas before I ride and I never sit on a can of gas for more then a week..It goes into my truck after that. I don't mix my gas until I'm ready to use it and I use 2 2 gallon cans with 1.5 gallons of gas in them That will last me a day of racing. When I used a 5 gallon can, I found I was wasting more premix in my truck then in my ATV. Because after a week, it all goes into my truck.

You'll have a longer warm up time with a larger radiator. And maybe if it's cold enough outside you might have to put some kind of sheilding over the radiator to heat the engine at it's optimal temp. But, I'd try a pro design impellar and see if that helps, it's only like 30 bucks..hell of a lot better then 300 or so for a new radiator...then with that new radiator, you might have clearance problems..that toomey radiator is fat and will suck up all the space availible and could impede on your control cables causing them to bind and chaffe. I was going to get one, but after I dropped in an impeller, My overheating woes went away..well that and I spent a few days straitening all the fins on my radiator and cutting away those that were beyond repair.

Ok. the year isn't real important unless your dealing with J-arm specific parts. I did a rebuild from my old 87 to a 98 frame..everything bolted right up..no real issues...well, the 87 has a thinner swingarm link then a 98..but it's been holding up pretty damn good for being a 17 year old part. The major diffrences come in electrical connections So, find out what year your engine is and stick with that when ordering engine and electrical specific parts..unless it's been butchured and somebody dropped an 89 stator in there to work with a 95 cdi...But frame wise if it's a J-arm then any 87-88 year part will work if it's an A-arm then 89-99 will work If it's new, they have a diffrent airbox. Belive it or not, 98 parts are cheaper then anything else. 98 frame ran me 630 where as 99 0r even a 90 frame was 800 bucks. Yamaha of Troy has a good micro-fiche online. You know now that I think about it, I'm not quite shure when they switched from J-arms to A-arms eather 89 or 90..hmm.

Your looking at the wrong spot, the electrode will always be black, you want to get it a golden brown on the ceramic insulator..and it is. Plus with the temp. on the rise and the nights still a bit cold, he should be good to run all day and night long without fear of running lean if the temps drop too far. Also notice the lack of fuel around the plug itself..it's dry wich means it's burning everything in there...that's good...well unless he wiped em down before he snapped the picture..then he's cheating. You can alwaya go leaner, but that means worn crank bearings and blown pistons. The onlything lubing your crank is that measly 32:1 fuel/ oil mix ratio or what ever ratio you run at..that's it. That's all thats keeping your crank alive at 9000 rpms. That's all that's keeping your rings from eating up they cylinder walls.

Is this the standard banshee bog? If your running stock reed setup, it will never truly go away. How does the plug look? You might have overcompensated your airscrew,pilot and needle valve with your main jet. Monkey around with it..you might end up going one size up on your pilot and a few sizes down on the main after you raised your needle up a notch and ajusted out the diffrence with the air screw.

Yeah, the stock mufflers can get clogged up. It happened to mine, the baffles load up with carbon then it flakes off and clogs them up. If you pull the endcaps off and shake the muffler and you hear stuff inside there moving about and little chunks of carbon fall out, your clogged up. I drilled my baffels out to clear a path for the exhaust to move through, but you loose any spark arresting capability of the muffler when you do that, it also becomes louder. But it's a quick fix if your strapped for cash. I'd replace em as soon as you can afford it. Oh, you can get aftermarked silencers for the stock exhaust, but I wouldn't waste the money unless your going to get a complete pipe and silencer combo. You can clean them up with a shit load of parts cleaner but I'm unshure if they can be repacked, there is no real way to get the baffels out...they are rivited in there.

You got no real choice, split the cases and clean the bearings. If you got any metal in them, they will fail on you. You know, you will pay more to have a stock crank rebuilt then to drop in a true'd and welded wiseco hotrod crank asy. That includes new connecting rods and seals.

What unit were you with? The only other peeps I know that were there for the long haul was 101st and units from Germany namely 158th avn. and their respected counterparts. Everybody else punked out early. Execpt 3rd AD..they were there long before the war began and got turned around when they were at port to go back. But they left around aug-sept timeframe.

yup, I agree

Anarchy, your an idiot.

Motion pro makes every cable combo imaginable....Terry cable makes cables too..but they are junk.

Oh oxygenated fuel is illegal to run in AMA sactioned races...plus it smells like shit..stinks really bad.

Well, no packing is definatly louder then any packing..now more packing like say to the point where you cannot possibly stuff any more in there would cause it to become more dense then say one wrap around the core. dense packing won't absord as much noise as less packing would..so more packing would make the bike louder then less packing. but any packing is better then no packing. Packing will affect your performance because it alters your exhaust track. Pipes are tuned for a specific length silencer..hence why FMF wants you to use it's power core silencers and why Toomey wants you to run it's silencers. Now packing occupies space in the exhause system. If you took the packing out, you've changed the dynamics of the pipe which will affect it's output..soundwaves will reverbrate back into the pipe at a diffrent frequency then if the packing was installed. That frequency diffrence could throw off the ppressure wave of the pipe causing you to loose power.

What kind of metal is it made from?

I doubt it.

Wear out the crosshatch pattern and the residue from the walls makes a glasslike glaze on the cylinders which causes the rings not to seal properly.