MotulMonsta

I've heard mixed reviews about the V-force 3. Heard it doesn't produce as much power..but it's easier to tune.

Suzuki dr 400 is a good bike as well. At 6'4..You want somthing your skills can grow into..If your not getting the best aka any top MX bike then buy used..I wouldn't pay over 1500 on a used bike to learn on. Any of the Honda xr line of bikes is a great biginner bike. But I'd get somthing with at least 200cc's I prefer a 4 stroke motor in dirtbikes as they vibrate less and are easier to manage. I can see you on a nice Honda xr 200 from 1991..run that until your skills are up then buy a new bike. An old Sizuki dr 350 is also a great bike...I had one sadly I gave it away..paid 1200 for it. Rode on the side when my Banshee was down. Great bike.

You had the cylinders bored to the pistons right?...Aka you gave whom ever did your borejob the pistons you are putting in there...I think you might also have snagged a ring..makeshure there are no burs left over from the boring and portjob...you'll have to pull it apart for that one. You should have never tried to run the bike until you got it idling properly. Now you might have just ruined a brand new motor...but don't loose all hope..you can just re-ring it and re-hone it and start over again. But this is a worst case scenario. set the air screws at 2.5 turns out and then adjust your idle screws until your bike idles right...this is assuming both your needles are in the same setting. If you run your machine too hard (which is ANYTHING over idle speed) you will trash your rings before they set..and you'll glaze over your cylinders...preventing you from properly breaking in the motor. AFTER your bike idles right..run it at IDLE for 2 min..then let it cool off, repeat this procedure and check your plugs. After that, IDLE the machine around for 5 min or so and then check your plugs and fluid levels. If everything is A O.K. then repeat the 5 min idling session and check it again. You should also run a rich mix of 24:1 during break-in. run about 1/2 gallon of 24:1 for your idle and LOW (LOW being the key you shouldn't go over 1/4 throttle) after you finish that up, switch to your regular mix and IDLE the motor check the plugs then put around for a day or so until you finish off that gallon of fuel NEVER going over 1/2 throttle, after that you should tune the carbs so it runs at it's optimal mix, idle the bike check the plugs then run it like you own it. You want to keep the mix rich and the temps low during breakin..allow the rings time to seat and then your done.

Sounds like one bad mamba jamba!!! My dyna can't do that!

You got a good shop manual? That's step #1. Did you do the rebuild yourself? Did you replace the pistons and rings? Hone the cylinder? Or just slapped it together with all the old parts. Sounds to me that your not giving your bike enough break in time. You also need to brush up on your carb tuning skills a bit. Gold screws on the sides of the carb..that's the airscrew..it should be recessed in the carb body a bit. You should also have an idle screw somewhere's around there..might be on the opposite side. But you have to figure out what your adjusting before you adjust it.

You won't find those parts in a breakdown anywhere. Looks to me that your caliper is already rigged..that's the wrong hdwr installed in it. Should be a pin and a black rubber seal. The brake rides on those pins and they are very important for proper brake function. I think if you look up a 1986 honda 200x they have the brake break down..yes the honda shares the same rear caliper as the banshee. Might be mistaken on the year though.

I'm in the same boat..there iarn't that many threads on the shaft and I cringe whenever I have to change my front sprocket...lucky for me it's still holding, but that is on the list for my next overhaul if it last that long...It's been like that since I owned the bike so I'm not too worried.

Enshure that your Heim joints sit perfectly straight, also make shure that the exposed threads equel what's the other side's threads are..that's how you adjust your castor. Also run the bottom spindle ball joints flush with the lower A-arm(ALL the way in) because if you don't, you'll bend them..ther upper ball joints can be moved freely and this will adjust your camber. Try to set it up with about a 1/2 toe out as the +1 fwd will make your ride seem a bit twichy..a steering damper will solve that if it's too much for you to handle (I have one) Red lock tight will be your freind and the bushings will last you a very long time. My front end is over three years old and AFTER I had gotten it dialed it, I've only eaten up 2 ball joints, 5 tie rod ends (this setup is hard on tie rods) and 4 heim joints. Not bad for three years of abuse. Oh, in case your wondering nothing broke, they just wore themselves out...well nothing except for that spindle..but it was from 1987 so that don't count. But the clear coat on the powder coating is flaking off...funny my rear swingarm is 5 years old and it's still on it's original paint from lonestar.

I ran a set of works w/res no comp or rebound adjusters and a set of custom axis w/ comp adjusters..the diffrence is night and day. Works couldn't handle the pressure my r/f shaft was bent 90 degrees when I had an internal damping failure. This was a week AFTER I had gotten them back from being revalved. Works had a bad habbit of bottoming out and my tie rods were actually hitting my upper a-arm mounting bracket bolt heads. I still got the marks on them. They worked Ok for the trails, but they weren't up to par for racing even after I had them moddified. Works uses a shitty valving system with springs and check-balls...these springs and check balls fail all the time. My rear shock wich is a works shock had a complete valving failure wich resulted in the loss of all damping. My shock guy told me the springs were completly shot. I had less then a years ride time on it since I had it rebuilt last. You might say to blame my builder, your right, I have a new shock guy and he's helping me out. But still cheap ass designs yeild cheap ass performance. You get what you pay for.

How long were you NOT watching the road for? I once looked back right after I landed this mean table to to catch a glimpse of my buddy clearing it..needless to say I forgot about the whoops and just for that spit second I ended up high siding a berm and crashing in a 4 foot deep ditch. My buddy was laughing his ass off as he helped me pull my bike out.

You know what..What goes on in your backyard is what goes on..Ain't nobody's buissiness but your own and those involved. Nosey mofo's trying to get into your buissiness is the real problem today. Just the otherday, My freinds were throwing water bottles at each other's cars when some dipshit stops his car in the middle of traffic, walks to my freinds and tries to pick a fight...sad thing is he didn't notice the cop who was watching less then 10 feet away. I laughed. I was worried for a sec that my boys were going to get a ticket for littering, but then the econut saved the day for us and landed himself in the patty wagon.

I remember when I first ran my old T-5's on a basicaly stock motor..Never forget that feeling. Lacked a little on the low end, but man did that fucker pull.

I don't know about another 1700 rpms..But if they say so. Your lucky if your runnin at 10,000 on a banshee engine. The way the ignition works, the higher the rpms, the less spark the motor gets..it actualy skips cycles from my understanding so in time, the motor will kill itself before it over-revs...that's how it supposed to work.

My 28 pwk's acted like that when I was first tuning them. The airscrew can make a huge diffrence along with a larger pilot and smaller mains. I run the stock kehin needle at the third clip. To be real honest, my loading up problem didn't go away until I droped in a set of V-force reeds..then my throttle response was amazing. No bog. go from idle to full without hesitation. It takes a while to dial in carbs...trial and error.

Hiper wheels are cheaper then their aluminum counterparts from both Douglas and ITP. Not only are they less expensive, but they are lighter too. So far I haven't had any issures with my set of Hiper rims but there are stories about the beadlock bolt inserts deboning and coming out of the rim. Tire instalation was a little bit difficult as I was worried about damaging the rim in the process.. Also the front rim's bolt holes are just a tad difficult to get to..but these are all very minor complaints. I'm never going back to aluminum rims again.

Huskavuarna has a 4 stroke chainsaw and weed wacker

My knuckle is messed up, My palm has a wound on it. Artillery shells have quite the kick on them..shit get's hot too. It was like battlezone three..I dumped my tub of firworks on the ground and told everybody to dig in..but if it looks expensive, they're mine. Needless to say a half hour later were were escorting the wounded to the medivac choppers and counting the dead. Fun times had by all.

My brothers and I used the disposable 3m face masks. They are small enough to fit between your mouth and chin gaurd.

Pro flow adapter w/ stock box using pro flow filter...best of the best. Can't get ant better. K&N's will suck dirt..It's a proven fact. Foam filters are proven to be better air filters.

You's be suprised, a little drop of water on the filter will work it's way through. I don't even run an airbox any more

I'm not a big fan of castor 927. I couldn't get my bike to run right on it, it's a bit expensive and it seperates from the fuel too fast. It does smell good though...A little thin for my liking too. I still have a bottle around here somewheres..it's like 4 years old.

You want top end power. Toomey's won't let you down. Banshee motors love to scream so take advantage of that.

What ever does seep out, don't remove it as you righ pulling the sealent through. A nice thin bead around the case on both halves will be good. It doesn't have to cover the entire surface but as long as there are no breaks in the bead, it'll be good. It's also a good idea to use a little sand paper (400 grit) to rough up the edges a bit..but no to much...help the sealent stick better.

Work it out..is it running rich? Lean? find a starting point and work on it..jetting takes time. I once spent weeks jetting my 28mm pwk's when I first installed them. Adjusting and tweaking until I got her running crisp a a fresh can of pringles.

Indirectly yes, but if your idle's bad, you should adjust the idle screw or knob. Once it's idling good, then monkey with the air screw and after you fidget with that, then adjust the idle again until you achive your desired results.