MotulMonsta

Yeah, Knobles is a great amusement park..They still have that wooden roller coaster..I think it was called the pheonix..Not shure.

Hey meat, My great grandmother lived in Shamoken, We used to run those mountains all the time. I thought that coal hill looked familiar. Is the mine still on fire? My family owns property up there still in a valley. We would camp there then hit up the trails. It's been like 6 years since I was up there..So I'd get lost in a heartbeat. I blew up my motor on coal hill. I remember all these crazy dune buggy guys would rip that place a new asshole. A lot of fun.I was even attacked by a pack of wild dogs.They still shoot off fireworks during the 4th of july? We would catch the fireworks show from the top of the mountain. I'll be moving back to NJ in a week, My brother knows the way I think..he's got a raptor. We might roll out there sometime.

Jetting looks good. right on the money..Well pretty damn close you could lean it out a hare but then you could risk running lean if the temp changes. I'd race on those plugs.

Well the banshee's motor is basically an RZ street bike motor..so as far as road riding is goes, Banshee's got the best motor for the job. But on the otherhand, the low psi in the tires will cause it to handle funny at high speeds and the solid rear axle won't let it turn as good as it can on pavement..plus tire wear from the asphalt..I'd keep road riding to a minimum. Dirtbikes on the other hand are even worse on the street, you keep a bike motor pinned and at a constant rpm, you'll glaze the cylinder over and could blow the motor. The motor's weren't designed to work in that way.

That damn hard ass seat on the yfz 450 is about the only reason I don't want one. I don't know about anyone else, but a yfz will gice you a bad case of swampass if you ride it too long.

Sintered metal pads will eat up your rotors..Just a warning...Plus sintered metal takes while to warm up..they don't work well cold. Organic pads work great, but they wear really fast. I stick with the carbon ones as they wear good, don't fade and don't eat your rotors up.

Well, when I'm gunnin it hard in a straight line, I don't use the clutch to shift, just let of the gas a bit and slam it up another gear..it's a faster way to shift..but it is a bit harder on the tranny especially when you miss a gear. I have yet to grenade my tranny gears themselves but they are worn. I blew a clutch basket up though. If I'm turnin and burnin I'm all over that clutch keeping the motor making it's power but one i'm going straight again just dump the clutch and pin the throttle.

I'd hate to say it, but A banshee will never out handle an R, just won't no matter what kinds of mods you do..except and outlaw racing chassis using honda geometry..but then you'll have an R with a banshee motor. I race quite abit against 250r's and they always out turn me, but I get em' on the straights. Larger tracks I have an advantage, shorter tracks it's the R's game.

Carbon fiber wheels from Hipertec are the shiznit. Cheaper then both douglas and ITP race wheels.

Don't waste your money on A-arm skid plates..A belly pan is all you'll need for MX. You don't need the proflow intake kit if your getting an aluminum airbox. yeah you can dump the hand guards too.

Get the number off the side of your carb and call a local dealer or dennis kirk, Chapperalle..see if they can get you one. I'm pretty shure it's not a specific model part and you could probly stuff one of your stock carb fuel shutoff valves in there and it will work

Your motocross bike won't idle? Who's your builder...fire him. You want your machine to idle..so when you let off the gas (and yes I know you will) it won't stall. I got my idle set so low people think my bike is puppy dog, but when I crack that throttle and beat em all out the gate..I laugh and ask them how my roost tastes. You want a good idleing machine..it's a sign of quality.

Dumb ass!!

OK, your crank problem..if your leaking oil into the crank case, you'll be venting crank pressure in the thranny..does the oil smell like fuel? do you blow a lot of oil out the crank vents? Does the right side run richer then the right? Now onto the airleak. Do you have new intake boots? They crack right where the ballance tube goes into and it's hard to see sometimes. Also there is a choke tube on stock carbs..is that on? Does it seal good. You could have the slides in wrong. Tighten all your clamps again and check it out. Did you put new gaskets on the reed cages and intake boots? Also makeshure the tops of the carbs are installed right.

Make it a 35mm and you'll have a good start.

Those fans won't be able to move enough air and they would actully impede airflow. You might as well get a turbo kit..that's a proven power increase..shit load of power. Banshee sucks HUGE gobs of air at higher rpms..I'm talkin a shit load of air.

you got an airleak..check all your clamps and hoses.

It happens, when you get a bad seal between cases, or a blown crank seal, you will vent crank pressure into the tranny. Overtime fuel will accumulate in the oil and contaminate it. That's a tell tale sine of a bad seal..fuel in the oil. Now how much fuel are we talking about? BUT when you leak pressure into the crank, oil will also get into the crankcase. So if it's running rich on the right side..bad crank seal, if it runs like shit after it sits a while, you could be pooling tranny oil in the bottom of the crank. They only way to know for shure is if you had a bore scope and can get it inside the crank, leak down test to check for a good seal or tear the bitch down and rebuild it.

I just ran a line from the radiator vent straight down the side of the frame and trashed the res. system. I kept loosing coolant and it made a mess of things..but since I dropped the res, no issues what so ever...I check the coolant level before each ride and that's about it.

I'd check that out first. Then makeshure all the wires are good and connections connected properly.

If there is gas in the tranny..then there is oil in the crank case..check it out...This also sounds like a good time to do a leak down test..I don't like doing leak down test as they can damage seals..but it's the fastest way to determine if your seals are still good...hopefully you use yamabond to seal the cases if you split them.

I like the term "slowhundred ex" I think I'm going to use it.

Ok.. I'll tell you this..the new holeshot MX's get GOBS of traction..I've never had my shee get so much grip. It'll hold a wheelie in third for as long as I'm on the gas..and this is me trying to keep the nose down...they just grip that good..but they don't last very long...I've already torn a few knobs off the tire and I only have one race and 2 practice days on it. They hook up well and I've pulled a holeshot on a 250r. I've run the tires in wet dry and tacky conditions..they work good on all of them..but really shined when it was wet

I'll get about 2 1/2 quarts in my tranny..takes time for the oil tio settle and work it's way into all the gears. I keep my level at about 1/2 on the dipstick.

I'll be moving back to NJ in a few weeks..Could use a few new faces to roost on.