MotulMonsta

I'm game! I'll hit you up later for the details! Trying some peeps for this weekend.

You are screwed. If you haven't run your quad for about as long as you last logged on...your crank bearings got seized up.

I'm looking for some cool people to roll out with. All my boys flaked on me.. However, I'm not too famliar with the dunes..Only been there once. But I'm going...solo if I have too. That my friends is commitment! :biggrin:

I'm rollin solo..Looking for some peoples to camp with..It's a crying same folks! :biggrin: Drop a line.

However, now that I though about it somemore, your bog might not be due to poor carb draining. Unless you take the time to REALLY setup your carbs right. You will always have some sort of hesitation. You have after all, your main jets to look at, your pilot jets to tinker with, your air screw, idle screw, your slide hight and the quality of the reeds you use. Now multiply this by two for the other carb and add into that how even your slides are to each other in respect to throttle position. Don't expect a miracle with a carb vent system..it's just like a boost bottle. Just about worthless on it's own and won't compensate for other factors.

Yeah, it does work..to an extent. I can hammer my quad through the whoops like nobody's buissiness! But you don't need to spend the 30 bucks or so that they'll charge you. for 5 bucks you should be able to pick up some tubing and couple of extra bucks will get you the fittings. The trick is to set it up so you don't get vapor lock in the drain line. So set the fitting as close as you can to the float bowl and rout one line up and the other down and away. The line going up wll allow air to get in and enable the fuel to drain faster plus equalize the pressure in the float bowl so that new fuel can come in. I bought that pj1 system years ago and have been running my own setup eversince. Works great.

I set mine up at the track. Took me all day. Then I went and got a steering stabilizer and it made a world of difference. Screw the bottom ball joints in as far as they go. If not, you'll risk bending them. I went through a half dozen ball joints before I figured this out. Then, measure the heim joints on the upper A-arms and ensure that you are getting no binding through the motion of travel and that it doesn't add to the bump steer. I honestly forgot what I set mine to..it was years ago and I haven't messed with it too much since. Those A-arms will last a long time!

Does it chatter with the clutch pulled in or out? You might just have your plates dragging. Make sure you adjust it right. Also don't get it confused with your water pump noise or piston noise. My shee grumbles a bit at idle. But it's no thing.

So, it has been forever since I logged onto this site. Glad to see my account was still active :biggrin: However, I have a problem.. Everyone I know isn't going to Glamis this weekend or they flaked. We were supposed to have this HUGE RV..but that whole deal fell through. So now I'm left rolling solo and I'm looking for some peoples to camp with. I live like two hours away in Lake Havasu AZ..I'm ready to go, got my stuff packed and my quad all bling blingy! This weekend is supposed to be NUTS! Drop a line. :cool: I know there are some people going!

I've rocked realtors before. They worked great for coal mines..but they are heavy, make a lot of noise and don't grip very well on hard surfaces. Plus they are wide and gives my quad a tippy feeling when cornering hard. The large openings between the lugs screams puncture me! I've had like 4 plugs in one of my tires alone after finding some sharp stuff. But the 6 ply means a tough carcass. I haven't found a real good tire that hooks up well in all conditions. The holshot MX's 18x8x10 are bar none the best for hard pack clay or dirt track. Regular holshots just spin up a storm...they equally suck on all terrain and are my general purpose choice as the stiff sidewall helps keep the quad stable. Turf tamers are good if you groove them, but at 2 ply they don't last long and holshot mx's are better. Nothing will hook up better then a set of paddle tires in the sand. The Razors are basically holshot tires with different tread pattern on the front...they don't turn as well as holshot mx's do and they are a harder rubber compound.

I look for places that don't have additives such as detergents in their gas. Though that's getting harder to find. Also look for fuels that don't contain ethanol. That too will be hard to find as all the anti smog laws are forcing at least 10% ethanol or 15% MTBE depending on the time of year. Steer clear of the budget gas stations and Cheveron. Cheveron puts Techron in all their gas which affect the lubricating properties of most ester and especially caster based pre-mixes.

I'm running pump gas and about a 4 degree timing advance with a milled head at .030. You should be fine. I have been told that you can mill as much as .040 off a stock head and run pump gas. I have yet to find this out for myself.

Downshifting under power? You are asking for trouble. That's how people blow motors.

What's a timing curve? Is that like a powerband? I bought a pink powerband to put on my bike..the dealer said it's better then stock. :biggrin: Just kidding! I could squeeze some more ponies out of my motor, but I'm a little old school.. I just tweaked my timing plate a few degrees and did a seat in pants evaluation. I'd love to get my motor on some diagnostics program and dyno it. I found that it ran better with the stock curve setting. All the others had some abnormalities..whether in idle or at WOT. However there was a VAST improvement over the stock CDI.

Ahh The GREAT Debate rages on! Quite simple are my reasons for prefering Toomey's. My T-5's are like 6 years old. They fit very well and they last plus you can get to the spark plugs very easily with no real effort at all. The mufflers are very easy to repack. It's a very well thought out product. :thumbsup: It's very easy to overlook spark plug access when considering a pipe. But, when you are jetting your engine for performance or doing routine maintainence..it helps. Sometimes I find myself pulling plugs 3-4 times during a race event just to make shure I'm jetted right. I would however recomend that whatever pipe you get, spend the extra cash and get it chromed. I have made that mistake. Also let's not forget mention that Toomey's make great power to boot! If not the best power curve of any pipe.

It's a great performance upgrade if your stock CDI craps out...plus it's cheaper then factory OEM or the bullshit GYTR cdi that yamaha markets. You don't need the software. I have one and I keep it on stock curve. I tried the other settings, but I didn't really notice a difference. But you do have to set your bike back to the factory timing.

Just get a set of toomey's. They are a much better pipe anyways. They fit better, they sound better, you can get to the spark plugs better, they don't break hangers as much, they look better..Need I say more? :thumbsup:

It'll cost you more to rebuild that crank then to buy one new.

I had the Magura hydro cluch for a while. Then it failed. Then I got rid of it. The cylinder won't hold up with heavy springs..the mounting of it is crude at best. Now my cluch pull was buttery smooth! However, the cylinder developed a leak and lost pressure and I couldn't use my cluch. A new cylinder cost about as much as a whole new kit and it was much cheaper to go back to a cable with an easy pull lever. It's a cool gimmick..but it won't last under heavy abuse. If you power shift a lot, the dogs on your gears are worn, the shift forks are made of aluminum and they slide in a steel cam...they wear rather easily. You should get new ones and then smooth the guides on your shift cam with a dremel. The shiter itself has an adjuster on it and you should check to make shure you get enough throw from the lever to turn the lugs on the shift star.

Have plenty of room on your work bench and use a clean white sheet to cover the work bench top and to allow you to easily see all the little parts. Keep both carbs seperate, do them one at a time and don't mix the parts.

It's not worth the money, the time and the effort to dynamically ballance a banshee crank. Wiseco cranks are pretty cheap and you can't truly rebuild a stock crank..nobody will touch it and you'll be paying more in the end when you can just drop in a trued wisco crank. Though enshuring the flywheel is ballanced would make a difference...as that weight is on the furthest part of the plane of rotation and an out of ballance flywheel could lead to premature main bearing failure and excessive vibration..but the weight of the flywheel itself doesn't matter as long as that weight is spread evenly about. The pisons and connecting rods are also important to be shure that they weight the same..as a heavy piston would cause excesive vibration..plus they should be matched to the counter weights on the crank itself. Hence why over bored banshees vibrate more then stock..the rotaing mass of the pistons are not correctly compensated by adding weight to the crank...You can't. But all this is negligable. As soon as you port a piston, it's going to be lighter anyways. Just make shure they weigh the same when you are done. If you run pistons lighter then stock..you could take some material off of the counter weights of the crank to smooth it all out. But it's not worth it.

I'd rule out a crank seal problem, it's on the wrong side. The left pison will lean out from a bad seal, the right will burn tranny oil. Is there impact marks on the spark plug? You may have had a bearing failure wich cause the piston to hit the plug. My best guess is that your buddies didn't know any better and you had a clog on the left cylinder's carburator..most likely the pilot because if it was the main..you would have known...back firing, sputtering..lack of power at speed.. or your floats were sticking and a high rpm's you starved that cylinder which caused a lean condition. Another culprit could be your reeds. If they were worn and didn't seal properly.. Also the air screw on your carbs..Perhaps a piece of dirt got lodged in there...One more thing..the routing of your fuel hose to the carburators..If you are not running an inline filter..I bet sand got in there.

If I remember right, that white plastic piece is a spacer to provide the correct clearence in order for the gear to engage. It fits in there pretty sloppy. Make shure that spring is on right and that the gear spins outward on the grooved shaft. If you took it apart, you might have put it together backwards. It can happen.

That sounds pretty good to me. I usually shoot for about 165psi when I rebuild engines. I run on pump gas with no additives to increase octane. You don't have a stroker crank in there by accident do you? I mean 2mm stroker will fit in a stock case and you wouldn't even know it until you tried to run it. Then you'd blow it up when that piston slaps the head. I highly doubt the guy whom you bought the bike from shaved his cylinders down. So get another tester and compare results. Make shure you turn the engine over cold and by hand until the gauge no longer reads a pressure increase.

Hey! A big thanks goes out to Watkins and his crew! They let my Brother and I camp out with them and showed us the dunes...I would have gotten SO lost in that place...It's HUGE! I have never ridden anything like it before....and I've been riding since I was 8 years old. Thanks again man. I'll be dropping you a line next time I'm up there at Glamis. Now to figure out how to post images...