H300F

Thanks it is a nice bike, I would like to keep it but I don't ride any where as much as I used to. It actually was not rode for a year straight. It does show the typical signs that it was rode, but what woods banshee doesn't? I can definately use the money elsewhere so it must go, I can't have it sitting around. I never added everything up, but I know there is quiet a bit there. Im not sure what to expect out of prices now that they are discontinued. I would guese they might go higher like the 250Rs once did?? It probably will get parted out, however all the Banshees in the local classifieds are at least $3000.

This is going in all the local classifieds. If it doesn't go, I will probably be selling it in pieces. Is anyone interested in the bigger items such as the whole engine? Id like to start putting together prices if there is enough interest. I'm alittle negotiable on $3650. When I was first buying a Banshee, you couldn't find one like what I am offering for this price!!

Selling my 95 Banshee I have owned for the last 8 years. A lot has been changed and replaced with racing/performance parts. Everything I did to it was to improve it's trail performance, so it runs accordingly and is great on trails but still has the Banshee's crazy topend. Engine: Fresh 0.060" bore, +4mm HotRods stroker crank with longrods, Passion ported for the stroker crank and added finger ports, Cool Head, RZ transmission with shift forks, PTR midrange pipes, DynaFS ignition, Vforce2 reeds and cages, 34mm Keihn carbs. The rest: Lonestar axle, Tag ProTaper CR bars and clamp, PEP triple rate front shocks with rezevoirs, rebuilt rear shock by RaceTech, Douglas Redlabel wheels, good tires, frame painted with good automotive paint, plastics cut at fenders front and rear and painted silver, PTR front chrome bumper, PRM grab bar, PRM full skids a-arms and belly. Was completely torn down in the recent past and new bearings and bushings were put in the frame. This quad was riden less than the average amount of time. Im sure there is more done to it then I can recall. Tons of power. $3650, there is WAY more invested in this on my part then that price, its hard to let it go so don't even waste my time dreaming of low ball offers!! I have a picture to email to only serious buyers. This is located in Northeast Pennsylvania. I may be interested in trades for a nice 97-01 Jeep Cherokee.

I had these for a few years now. They are actually valved by pep for +2 arms etc. They are a good shock, a bit soft though. I would like to drop the frontend an inch or two. Looks like they are threaded but turning them does nothing.

Is there anyway to lowwer works triple rate shocks? Is it possible to take the upper spring out? Heres a pic

I have ran mid ranges for a few years now. I started with T5s and didnt like them for the trails. Put the mids on and the difference was incredible exactely what i wanted. Uped the compression and got a dyna ign., that even added more useable power and i couldnt ask for more. Ran them for a year on stock cyls then my crank froze so i put a stroker crank and passion porting in. i had the port done to work with the mids, more or less a trail port with good topend. still kept the mids because they worked so well in the past, ran it and it was still good. the power from porting picked up from mid to top. put some 30mm carbs on same power, traded them for 34pjs this month, havent ran it yet with them on. i kept the mids with the stroker because the power was so usable for where i ride. i know they are holding the top back but the only way i will get rid of the mids is if i borrow a set of topend pipes and try them to see if the power spread is similar. with a set of different pipes i know you can get a few more thousand rpms out but for what i do its not worth losing down low power. a lot of people rag on them but for trails, xc racing, mx, in my opinion they cant be beat on a set of stock cyls. they held their own against every topend piped banshee i ever raced, and especially since they get on the pipe down low and take off. kinda wish i didnt go with the stroker setup because the way it ran on stock cyls was plenty, however i had to replace the crank and it seemed logical. it all depends on how and where you want the power, and how your cyls are ported.

Before you buy carb(s), think ahead if you are going to eventually get the cyl's ported. If so you may want to either wait on carbs, or get ones that will work good with the soon to come porting. Or else you will be selling them to get bigger ones to accomodate the port job when you do get. I dont have much experience with single carbs, but Im pretty sure its stock cyls- 33pwk, ported 35pwk +. Porting seems to be the last mod anyone does after the pipes, carb setup, filter etc.. this can lead to having to change everything to get the porting how you want it to respond. plan ahead

You cant just compare hp, there are a lot of things that come into play such as the rpm the power is at, the max rpm you can get out of the motor, torque, getting power to the ground (right paddles), gearing, and weight. I think a long race with any 4 stroke you will win.

chisel

I have had every ign part go bad at one time. from my experience the cdi only acts up when it gets splashed with water, the coil and plug wires cause a break up at wide open, stator causes a break up at wide open.

Does anyone have any flow numbers of each valve? I dont see how in his application he will ever run out of gas. If you really wanna see if your running out of gas take the needle valve out of the carbs and watch if gas pours out of the overflow line while wide open, i bet it does!

good deal

$5.50

that ign might be programmable and that is why there is an extra plug, i think mine is smaller than the rest and triagular shaped

Where are you located? Interested in the stock wheels and tires. Any idea on shipping price?