MotulMonsta

No, you can buy them directly from toomey. They sell just the tubes or just the silencer or a combo of each..call and ask.

The worst is when they pop out and fly across the garage and your spending hour looking for it because you don't have another on hand.

I ride at Englishtown. As soon as I get my machine together I'm going ti hit up Atco raceway as well. Used to ride in the pine barrens but now they got huge fines if you get caught...but there is a park in Chatsworth though.

So as the topic says, I'm not too hapy with Yamaha of Edison NJ. They are a bit overpriced and tag on extra charges. Not good buissiness. I brought my swingarm linkage asy there the other day to get the bushings pressed out. I had the parts, but I don't have a press..so anyways I was figuring about 50 bucks for them to do the work as they'll charge the shop time. Well, At first they told me it would cost 120 bucks and I said "your out of your fucking mind! A new link only runs around 210, no way in hell am I going to pay that price." So they dropped it down to 60 and cost of parts..So I said that better..but 60 is still a little steep..It's only like 20min worth of work. But I had the parts on hand and gave them to the guy. Well To make a long story short, I picked up my link today and saw the total was 74 bones!! That ain't right..they tagged an 11 dollar shop fee on the damn thing. I asked what this shop fee was and they said the cost of the grease..I looked at the dude and asked if he honestly thought there was 10 dollars worth of grease in the damn part. So then he came up with another bullshit answer and said "well that pays for the gas they used in the torch." Again I looked at him and smirked..No way you used 10 dollars of gas to heat this part up..besides it's aluminum. So then I talked to the shop forman and he told be because I brought my own parts, they had to charge me a shop fee of 10 dollars ontop of the 60 dollar time fee..Bullshit. It's a yamaha part at a yamaha dealer with oem replacement bushings from the factory that I've been sitting on for some time now. Never before have I had such crap blown in my face..I'm not doing bussiness with them again.

Best way is to first remove the snorkel then cut a half moon in the back of the lid following the shape of the lid. Then drill some holes on the air deflector in the lid itself. This way more air gets to the filter.

A lot of people I know who run the dynoport pipe have had the same issue. When they jig up the dyna pipe, sometimes it's off a bit..that and your cylinders could be off a hare as well. Could try bending the pipe to shape or loosen up your cylinder base nuts and get the pipe to fit like that. Call up dynaport and see if you can try a diffrent pipe and tell them the one you got won't seal. Toomey will replace it's pipes for a broken hanger..so Dyna's got to have some type of warrenty.

I guess they don't make the size jet you need? I'm shure that drill kit retails for far more then a handfull of jets would. I've know people who would drill out their own jets with a regular drill just to save a few bucks..I think they had pretty good sucess but they didn't use any mathmatical formulas nor graph their variables on spreadsheets, they just eyeballed it and drilled away.

Your right..you will be making a sleeper..bitch will sleeps it way off the line in last place running stock pipes. Your wasting your money on those expensive engine mods if your not going to compliment them with a tuned pipe matched for the work your having done....It's like blueprinting and supercharging a chevy 350 then putting back on the stock manifolds and exhaust..shit won't flow and if you run too much psi you'll blow the motor.

there are two vent lines, one is in the back of the motor, the other runs out from the waterpump cover. If you blow in one, air should come out the other..but they both connect to the same line so if you didn't disconnect them and test em' individualy then you still might have a clog..but like you said, the tranny held pressure so atleast your seals are still good.

Hmmmm..Thinking...Do your slides in the carbs bottom out? Perhaps they don't. Disconnect the cable from the thumb throttle and try it out. Also, a little eather sprayed around the carbs will let you know if you've got an airleak. But before that, Did you take apart the TORS housings? maybe somthing is not adjusted right? Did you screw the caps on all the way? Try putting the choke on...maybe your running too lean.

Supprised it didn't blow any seals out. Takes some serious pressure to get oil to squeeze out the dipstick hole with the dipstick in. In fact I'm willing to bet if pressure is the culprit, you have a bad case seal and your also getting oil into the bottom half of your motor. Unplug your vent tubes and blow in them, should be no restriction. If you can't blow in them, they are clogged..could be bad news. Anyways hope whomever built the motor knew what he/she was doing.

If they are stock, the carbs have a little window where you can see the slides. just get them so they both appear in the window at the exact time. It's pretty simple. You might have to adjust the idle so they are both set even then adjust the slides. You can also pull the filter off and peer down the airbox to the carbs and do it like that...that's how I sync mine...If you really got some time you can get a vacume guage and set it by that...but your going to need a place to plug it into...some aftermarket carbs have a nipple you can attach it to.

Unless your going to cut the holes in the lid itself, it's pointless to put holes on the box and expect water not to get in there. Aftermarket airboxes are junk so don't wastes your money on them..just cut a few holes in the lid and cut out the airduct on the lid itself or drill holes along the side of it to allow water to pass by the filter instead of getting right on it.

Vito's pistons are made by Wiseco. The piston skirt is shorter, the intake ports are raised and the piston itself is lighter and has a higher dome hight then the standard wiseco pro-lites. I think Vito's is a better piston..but it's also twice as expensive.

??? What the f*ck? That made no sense at all.

I liked the house blowing up.

Building a good track isn't easy nor cheap. Not only do you have to have the land, but a good track has good drainage and irrigation. Plus the upkeep and maint...time consuming. The local track that I used to ride all the time up in Crofton Ky was always being changed and worked on but it was open 7 days a week unless there was a race that weekend. Alot of the good tracks don't open to the public as the public will tear it up and present a larger liability to the land owner. Now with that said, If I ever get enough land, You'll be damn shure I'm going to build me (key word ME) one bad ass track to play on...and only my closest friends will be able to ride it...god forbid some pimply teenage punk crashed and breaks his arm or dies and I'm stuck with a lawsuit.

Make shure your parking brake isnt sticking.

You had too much rebound in there..your rear shock was pogo sticking...aka bottoming out then rebounding back. Bad mojo. First thing..your springs control your ride height..adjust them so your machine sits the way you want it to. Too much preload (the tension on the spring when shock is fully extended) and you'll throw off your rebound and damping. Too little preload and your spring will slop around the shock body. Sus. setup is a ballance it won't perform in every aspect perfectly as each setting will interfere with another..but the goal is to achive a good ballance of all the points for your given riding conditions. Your damping is where your money's going to be made at. too soft and you'll bottom out and your shock will ride on the spring causing it to be bouncy..too much damping and you won't achive the full rate of travel and have a harsh ride. The key is to have your shocks bottom at least on one point of the track to ensure that your using maximum travel possible. Rebound adjuster is a bit difficult to setup. the goal is to set the rebound so the shock does not load up or pack up when running in rough stuff like whoops..too slow of a rebound and your shocks won't fully extend before the next obsticle..too fast of a rebound and your shock will extend too fast causing it to become bouncy. It takes some time to dial in suspenstion..don't be suprised if you have to revalve and re spring your shocks to suit your riding style.

I broke the spindle axle off my left front one time..man did that suck. Came down hard off this double, then out of the blue my machine veered left like there was no tommorrow..I was pretty damn lucky I didn't flip it...I thought I had shit another balljoint or my tie-rod failed..nope sheared that axle clean off..the only thing holding my wheel on was my brake caliper.

Yeah..funny shit!! weeny rider

I just left Ft. Campbell 3 months ago and I gave my pickup way to a freind of mine. I'm now living it up in Ft. Livingroom. You can find pickups for cheap there...I picked my old 89 rust red F-150 4x4 for 1900 bones.

Dirtrider's an idiot..Plain and simple. I'd hang out with him simply because he'd make me look good. He'll be my wingman at the bar where he'd distract the fat ugly chick who's freinds with the hot chick I plan on taking home. Idiots are good to have around sometimes. He'll pay the cab fare home because I'll tell him it's the "cool" thing to do. I'll eat all the food in his fridge then yell at him that it's empty while I'm drinking his last beer then bitch that there's no beer left.

Well, also throw in the vairable that pump gas is made for a wide range of engines and engine loads. Race fuel on the other hand is more strictly formulated to suite a specific engine and it's needs. So if you built your motor to the fuel you wished to use..you'd make the most power.

Your going to have a hell of a time finding High temp hoses. Try a marine store as boats have a lot of that shit. Don't waste your money on oem's as they fail to readily. I suggest forking out the dough and getting a clampless seal setup. It's a bit expensive..but I feel it's worth the money...No more carbon colored carbs..no more clamps rusting and then catching my leg..it just looks better too.