MotulMonsta

When I put steel brake lines on my shee, it took a hell of a lot of fluid to get it to bleed, I ended up using a syringeand injecting it into the lines before I reconnected them. It took a while but I got it to work.

I wouldn't run anything smaller then a 13 tooth front as a 12 is prone to breaking teeth. What size tires do you have? If 22's it's run a 13/44 if 20 or 18 I'd run 13/42 which is stock. Slip the clutch in corners to keep the rpm's up and run that motor up high where the power is at. The clutch can take the abuse. A lot of people I know are afraid to use it right. If you use it right you should be adjusting it everyday..unless you go a hydro clutch.

Shit the Banshee ain't made to run half fast..let her scream! Run a set of Toomeys and relish in that HP gain. Those other pipes actully have a shitty power curve that falls off too soon. Pro circuts are a good second best. If you wand mid range get that 2 into one setup..it will increase the beef but stifle the scream. There's this kid at a local track who smokes everybody and he runs the two into one setup. It's got balls.

I was running 180 psi on pump gas. I belive stock is around 120-140

As for power valves...it prettymuch an adjustable exhaust port. it will add low end and top end power. FMF make a cylinder setup for close to 2,000 beans..so does Trinity. If you happen across an old RZ350 buy it and use that motor. A banshee is an RZ minus the powervalves.

Oh yeah..pipes will run around 600 bucks..GET TOOMEY'S T-6 V-force reeds around 250 bones. so under a grand you'll gain around 15-20 hp or so most likely more. The pipes should be step one. spend the extra for crome. as bare metal requires a lot more work to keep looking nice. Don't waste your money on a boost bottle or octane boosters. they won't work. plud boost bottles will wear out your throttle cables and chaffe your wiring and hoses.

Powervalve for a Shee will require a whole new cylinder setup. It ain't cheap. As for long rods. They will increase your low end tq and HP..but due to the larger mass you will loose rpms and top end power. Everything has trade offs. The best and cheapest thing for you to do would be a set of aftermarket pipes, proflow intake system with a vented airbox lid. Remove the snorkel rejet and get a set of V-force reeds. You will not be sorry with this setup. Everything after that will require lots o money. porting polishing. Don't buy an aftermarket head unless your doing some mean shit. you'll be wasting money. as for cooling a pro design impeller will do wonders. I run a milled stock head and I don't have overheating issues..plus stock heads can be found used for cheap should you warp one.

On the stock thumb throttle thee is a contct switch..that goes to the tors system. I assume the quad was running before you installed the twist throttle. It might be flooded. You will get spark to the plugs with a fualty tors but it won't stay on. I one time spent a half hour pissed off trying to start my Shee before I realised my tether was unplugged. Let's not forget about all the 100 or so times I forgot to turn the fuel on and halfway around the track my quad would die. It's those simple things that cause the biggest headaces.

I run 3/16 with my 28's. It all depends on the carb fuel inlet size. the tank is a 5/16 I belive. the Carbs might be different. Don't be stingy on the fuel line. it will leak if it's the wrong size and no hose claps in the wold will help you. Also make shure you cut the hose so that each carb gets close to equel amouts of fuel so one doesn't run dry. It's real hard if you have a boose bottle as the fuel lines are forced to go eather above or below and you don't get the right angles to permit proper fuel flow. If your carbs have a little nipple like mine do after the slide , just run some vent tube to connect it with the other carb.

Quick fix..next to the coil...where the plug wires come from..there is the TOR's box. unplug it. if it stars that's it. cap of the conector and throw away that box. it's garbage. the tors is a 3 pin plug.

Oh be careful about what heat range..you can actuly melt a hole in your piston if you slap in the wrong plug. I've run b7es and found that the motor runs a bit hotter and is harder to start..but it made a bit more power. I switched back to b8es for starting ease and reliability.

I've found that my plugs will last for years. Unless there is wear on the electrode there is no need to replace it. I use some brake cleaner or carb cleaner and a rag an clean the contacts on the plugs. I've got over 1/2 dozen good plugs sitting around as spares in case I need them. I would usualy get a new set of plugs for a rebuild then change them after the motor's broke in then change them again for jetting then I'd run those plugs until I rebuild again or somthing goes wrong. Usually I replace the plugs because the cheapo aluminum plug tip strips out. Can't have that. I always replace my plugs as a set. but I'll throw in an old one if I need to to finish a race or get home

you know inside that tranny is a lot of things that can go wrong. First of there is your shift lever shaft if that's bent it could throw the shifts off..then there is the cam inside the tranny where the forks align into and on that cam is what's refered to as a shift star I belive. It has as many pegs as gears (6) and on the end of the shift lever there are the star pin grabbers and also a return spring and an adjuster. If the shift lever is not grabbing the star right it wont shift. also of the forks that ride in the groves of the cam are worn..it will bind and won't shift. There is also a bearing that the cam rides on if that's shot it will throw the shifts off. If it shits fine under power, it your forks..they're worn...you should feel notchy shifting if that's true. If it does not engage right..or pops out of gear..your shifter lever is out of wack. that's a simple prognosis. The cam can last forever..it's steel..the forks are aluminum. Oh on the gear are dogs...of those dogs are worn the gears will stick. That's an EXPENSIVE repair...everything else is relativly easy. My tranny doesn't like to go into third. but it's and old 87 and everything is worn. but it works so until I can find me a new bottom end for cheap..i'm just going to live with it.

Who else has had ignition issues in their Banshee? I've got no light wires nor a voltage regulator..removed them all. No key it's tied in directly to the tether switch and I have all new electrical parts minus a cdi, stator and flywheel. The stator is a rebuild. I've also removed every aspect of the torrs system. It seems after I ride sometimes it will not spark. It doesn't happen all the time only once and a while. I've had a few DNF's because of it..then as mysteriously as it appears, it disapears...usualy after the race is over. Maybe my Shee gets performance anxiety?

Does anybody else have a problem with oil blowing out their tranny breathing vents? There are two, one in the back right below the rear uper engine mount and one below the water pump. I keep blowing oil out the one below the water pump and have yet to find the reason why. I'v rebuilt the motor twice even used Yamabond to seal the cases as per manufacture's instrutions...it still does it. I'm pretty shure it isn't crankcase blowby but I haven't tested yet.

Here's my advice. The only good thing about the Banshee is A: The motor hands down one of the best powerplants there is. B: the Aftermarket support...you can find anything you can dream of out there...somebody makes it and is trying to sell it. The Banhee's chassis is horrible. It's weak and has poor suspension geometry. It turns like crap unless your on the juice and handles just as bad. I wouldn't spend any money trying to stuff a diffrent motor in the chassis. Find an old suzuki or honda 250r and use that. Or contact Lonestar, LRD or Walsh racecraft and buy an aftermarket chasis with much better handling manners. Hell you can even call up Yamaha, honda..ect.. and buy a bare chasis of the make you want for cheap. I picked up a 98 frame to replace my tired old bent 87 for like 600 bucks.

Who'd you get your shocks from? Who made em'? You should send them back to the place you bought them if your not going to any local guys. Custom Axis will rebuild any of the shocks they sell and they also provide a window to make changes in your damping rebound and spring rates. The local guy that I go to, I'll just have im change the oil and nitrogen. That's all you really need once it's dialed in.

CHAAGHING!! That's the sound of the cash I'm going to have to spend once I'm able to comprehend my surroundings and regain mobility in my limbs. Then I think about what happened why the hell did I crash AGAIN??

Stuff a Banshee Motor in the frame