MotulMonsta

Is that the pot calling the kettle black? Chill out and read your bible a bit more

You know..Work doesn't have to be legit...Plenty of good opertunities to be had if you know where to look.

yeah, it's possible..as the engine warms all the parts expand.

Hmmm. Why must religion get dragged into everything. You know there is a HUGE tax break for married couples..If I was gay and I couldn't enjoy the same benifits of a straight married couple..I'd be a little pissed.. It's only fair to reconize the commitment people have for each other regardless of any particular straying from the cookie cutter mold.

Well, You missed a good day at the track! Some people who could ride showed up and schooled me up a bit.

I'm running two 28mm pwk's, I pretty much have my motor built to the carbs. I don't know how much power my shee's making, but it's alot. The 28's arn't much bigger then the stock 26's but they are a hell of a lot better and way easy to tune. I like them..I've had them for years now and they work like a champ.

Why re-sleeve? Just bore them to match.

I wouldn't run 2 diffrent sized pistons...You'll have ballance issues and jetting woes.

Nope, can't say that I've seen one of those. What rings did you get? I don't even know if I'd use it..rings should sit withing like 5 thousands in. gap when they're compressed in the cylinder. They are banshee pison rings I assume...Cause 4 joker's got an oil seal on the pistons and I belive that that's what goes behind it.

I seen them sons of bitches. They're big fast and ugly. They don't have venom though, it's like lanocane, it numbs your flesh then they chew on it all night long while your asleep. Camel spiders are tough too, you can cut them in half and they'll still be going strong. But they are no match for the big black scorpions overthere.

Just to let you know those in the NJ area, raceway park in Englishtown has their big MX track open for atv's this sunday, all day. It'll cost about 30 bucks to ride. I need me some good competition. I was there today at the practice track and nobody could hang with me.

You'll need to replace the coil and the wires as a set.

Welp, what I imagine he's saying is although the mix ratio is leaner at 80:1 then 32:1, it's going to run richer because...now here's the fun part..Oil in the gas makes the gas thicker and thick gas does not pass well through those tiny jets..so at 32:1 your getting less gas into your motor with same jetting then if you ran 80:1. So with an 80:1 ratio your burning too much gas and fouling out your plugs..but with less life saving lubricating oil. It's a cheaters way to fine tune jetting by changing mix ratio's..it's also a very good way to ruin your motor. Your bike will not run right on an 80:1 mix if it's been jetted to 32:1 before that. Hell, my banshee won't run right on anything but motul 800 mx factory line mixed at 32:1. I guess my Banshee knows what's good and won't settle for anything less then the best.

K&N's are junk filters...yeah they flow good, but they let dirt pass right through them. K&N's are only good when your running in the dry desert with outer wears over them. Other then that..you'll be screwing yourself in the end. The best filter setup out there is the pro-design pro flow kit. It has a massive 2 piece filter assembly that bar none puts every other filter to shame. I ran a uni filter for a while and like my shit assed k&N, I noticed specs of dirt inside my carbs..not good. I also ran a 250r style aluminum airbox setup..it's junk as well. That pro flow filter is so fucking massive that dirt is never going to find a way through it. Me, I'll suffer a little performance loss due to minor intake restriction then risk a costly engine meltdown due to dirt inhalation.

I'll jet super rich, run a mix of 16:1 with the choke on and idle it for 2 min. then let it cool down and idle again for 2 min...cool down then idle and putt around for 10 min...cool down keep up the pattern until those 2 gallons of 16:1 are down then mix more 16:1 and this time putt it around without the choke never going over 1/4 throttle. After that I run a race mix of 32:1 and putt it around not going over 1/2 throttle after those 2 gallons mix me up some more and just ride it easy for a day then hammer the shit out of it. Then re-jet for optimal performance. The key is to get those rings to seat, you give it too much juice too soon, you'll snag a ring and ruin your day. I usualy take 3 days to break a motor in..then after that it's race time. My motors are good for years..I had one last me 4 years and it still was making damn good power.

Yeah, the bolt to the engine mount should have a long spacer. You put that bolt on the l/s upper engine mount bracket. It should fit. If it's the wrong one, you can pick up another one at any good hdwr store. I recomend setting the stabilizer in it's mid level setting. It's going to be a bitch to get right, but once you have it centered you'll be good for years. I suggest taking the pipes off and removing the radiator. Also watch out for clearance on the radiator..the stop bolt will touch if it's not setup right.

Yup.

What rolls down the stairs and under your chairs and into your naighbors yard? What fits on your back and great for a snack?

Higher psi in the front makes the tire stiffer, a stiff tire won't roll in on it's self when your charging hard and fast into the turn. You want that front to cut the terrain like a knife..not conform to it..yes you can feel more of the bumps running at 10 psi then 4..but 4 psi and you'll pop that tire off the rim in a hard corner. Try it out..pump that front tire up to 10 psi and run it fast into a sharp turn then drop the psi down to 4..you'll feel the diffrence.

Pro's: You can clear a 28mm kihnin carb..they have a nipple that sticks down from the float bowl and it binds against the clutch arm. Increases intake tract length. Con's: You have to mod your carb boots and it makes taking out the airbox a bit more difficult then it already is.

No, he gutted the harness, went through each wire, cut out all the bullshit wires aka lights and tors then sealed it back up and tucked it nicely under his frame rails.

I had an old 1989 Ford F-150 4x4 with the 300 straight six efi..I must ahve had well over 300,000 miles on that truck before I gave it away. The dashlights quit working, the rear fuel tank quit working, the fuel injection was so fucked up..the damn thing would bellow out black smoke..but it wasn't burning oil. I ripped the cat out on some rocks and jerry rigged a glass pack in it place, the front axle U-joints were shot and the front drive shaft was bent, The cabin dome lights had a life of there own, the speedo quit working 150,000 miles ago and I put my old bashee K&N's on the throttle body because the stock airbox was broken..Oh and when I got rid of it, the engine was venting oil and smoke from the crank vent...but man that truck would move out..105 mph down the freeway at 2,500rpms..least that's what the cop that pulled me over said. One tuff truck...a piece of shit..but a reliable P.O.S. none the less...Oh I forgot about the time I mangled a Kia and all I did was J.b. weld my radiator and hooked a come-along to my bumper and a telephone pole to pull it out. I would peel out in the parking lots and all over town. I think there's a picture of it in the photo gallery in my album.

Wait...I got a pink powerband..well it was red a first but I left it in the sun too long and it faded.

You da man yo! I did that same shit a while ago. You get a much nicer spark no don't you?

No, you don't need to disconnect the hose..but you should drain the coolant