banshee tuner

I used some high temp engine paint from the local auto parts store to paint mine silver and so far it has held up.

Go ahead and do the head but the timing will not make a difference until you add pipes.

+4 for all around and +7 for drag race only.

It's got to be that tors, unhook that thing for good and save a few headaches.

I could pull sixth with my 20 inch paddles but I had to be wound out in fifth before shifting. The 20's I had were about 2 inches taller than my stock 20's. I had 15-41 gearing with toomey T5's.

I have had one for 4 years with no problem at all, it helps out on top end. They are not recommended for high horse motors, my motor has no porting.

I just ordered a set of reeds from them to go on my stock cages. Everyone says they work great but don't know anyone that has gotten any work done by them.

Parking brake is gone and tors. It was doing this before the rebuild and I rebuilt because the compression was uneven from one cylinder to the next. Now I have good compression and the same problem before rebuild. When it is kicked over it has fire but unsure if it is enough. I'm going to take resistance readings on stator and follow the manual for any other specs.

Mine never changes sides, it is always the right side that does not get hot. If I pull the right plug wire it will run, if I pull the left it will not run. If it is a crank seal wouldnt I be loseing gear oil.

I have been through the carbs and can see through the jets, I have swapped reed cages from one cylinder to the other and I am pretty sure it is a firing problem. Does anyone know if this could be the stator, cdi, or possibly flywheel causing this.

Checked plug and don't have gear oil smell, swapping plug wires has no effect. Since both fire at the same time is it possible to get fire when left piston is at top dead center and not when the right piston is at the top. Like if it only triggers to fire at one position of the flywheel and not 180 degrees around.

I've got a fresh top end cause it was not running proper and with original top end and low uneven compression I figuered it would not help. I now have good even compression and right cylinder still has very little exhaust and exhaust is cold. Bike is running off left cylinder and runs awesome if you can make it to top end, but bottem end sucks. What would be the cause electrical if swapping plug wires has no effect and problem remains on right cylinder. Right plug is wet and getting fuel and reeds swapped between cylinders makes no difference.

Porting your cages is a great mod and it's free. I'm still running ported cages cause back when I did mine there was so many post on here talking about the slight difference in ported stockers versus delta 2's. I definately felt a difference when I did mine.

I removed my crossover tube and lost bottem end and put the crossover tube back in right away.

Once you get those cylinders off you should measure them to make sure the one that seized up does not have any deep gouges before you order 20 over pistons. If you want a cheap rebuild with a small power gain put a set of vito's superstock pistons in. It comes with all the gakets you will need.

I would recommend seeing if the floats are set wrong or you might not be getting both carb bowls full at the same time. A clear set of gas lines will save a lot of troubleshooting time and is a cheap mod.

The pods are great cause my shee would not breathe with the stock airbox and the T5's.

Mine is still not running right on the right cylinder. I swapped the plug wires, reed cages, checked carbs, and even swapped plugs. I thought I had the problem when I found the spark plug top unscrewing, but it was not the problem. I don't have a compression checker but that is my next step since the right side has a lot less exhaust. Still pulls good on top end though.

I'm having the same problem after today, right side not putting out right after taking reeds out and flipping them, and changing the main jets from 280 to 300. It run great and cranked on the first kick, now it's hard to crank and right cylinder does not put out enough exaust. Got to be the reeds but I tried to put everything back like I had it and no luck, will take a closer look tomorow.

After my brother-in-law broke 2 on his blaster I was worried about putting mine in. I called vito's and they told me to use a strap wrench to hold the flywheel while tightening it. I did that in 01 and still have it in there now. My flywheel is stock and I do admit the aftermarket key is not as strong as stock but mine has held up fine.

It works good but your pipes will turn blue again.

I have always used emory cloth to clean up the rear axle and then painted it with spray paint that matches the frame. It holds up for a while depending on the riding you do.

Cut those stock grills off. I used a dremel tool and cut off wheels and it looks much better, thanks to banshee hq for the great looking mod.

A milled head or aftermarket head with changeable domes will increase bottom end mostly but that is what a banshee needs. I had mine milled .025 and it made a huge difference in bottom end power. It only cost me like 25 bucks and a head gasket.

Goodbye front fenders, debated over it for a while but have not missed them yet.