banshee tuner

Everyone on here has had trouble with those stock screws on sidecovers and everywhere else, to remove them the right way you need an impact driver. It is a tool with screwdriver bits and you hit it with a hammer. I bought one from harbor freight for 8 bucks and it does the trick.

Call toomey and they will even tell you that the t5's are better for porting and mods.

Since no one replyed here I would try the mx forum those guys can get you on the right track.

There is only a few resons that I can think of that they are beating you. You say you can ride good and you are running holeshot tires (so am I) so I would say either your compression is down, your not geared right, or your clutch is slipping. If it is not one of those work on launching and shifting.

I've posted this before and I guess people like to do it the hard way, but spray carb cleaner and wipe it off with a shop rag and your done. It works wonders and does not harm the chrome.

I used to have the same trouble you are and I weigh 230 but I was just getting out driven. I'm still running stock topend and I smoke those 4 strokes. The only one that runs with me is the yfz 450 with pipes.

Don't get the single carb unless you not going to port it.

You will not hurt anything and with that much compression you will feel a difference. My banshee runs just right on jetting with 93 and just a little lean with cam 2 but I run it cause I have better throttle response with it.

Don't waste your money on octane booster cause me and probably every one else has run that crap and thought we were doing something but it will build up in the head. Run race fuel or 93 but octane booster is a ripoff. Someone did a full writeup about it and it turns out that it's just chemicals you can buy and mix up.

Yea that's like that tornado fan that is supposed to give you better gas mileage and would probably restrict air flow. Just think someone got rich off that junk.

You can get it to idle without the kit if you adjust the cables out on top of the carbs. It is just not the proper way to do it cause you wan't have the right amount of freeplay on the throttle and if your cable gets hung on something your bike will run off without you. So yes it will run but not the way it was intended to. I drove without mine idling for a day and it is a pain in the ass.

I run the motion pro twist and wish I would have done it when I bought the bike. My arm used to get so sore that riding was not fun after riding very long. It takes about 30 minutes and takes a lot of clutter off the bike.

I'm sure handlebars are like every thing else you get what you pay for. I've got msr dominator aluminum bars and only spent $35. They are much better than stock in my opinion. I've even rolled and did not bend em but bent an a arm.

I flipped mine and got 4 more inches of width and love it. I just had to ajust the tie rods cause it had to much toe out.

My banshee was doing that once and I ran each air mixture screws in all the way and backed them off even and one was about a turn farther out than the other. now I get even smoke at startup. Vibration was the cause and it is a good prevenative mantanance step.

A lot of people recomend the boon dockers but I have heard that you have to jet rich and run that way all the time but on the wet kit your jetting stays the same. Is that true? Also what do you set your timing for with nos.

With the light flywheel I would say at least top of 5th.

Could be an air leak or a clogged main jet. But a true compression check is w.o.t. and only 5 solid kicks. If your kicking one side twice as much you have low compression on that cylinder. Check again and kick both sides 5 times at wide open throttle.

I run the 280 mains with pod filters and mine runs great. Some people say that is to lean but I think each bike is different even if they have identical mods. Also I'm at sea level.

I agree with led about the same question being beat into the ground. I read post on here for over a year before joining and try to ask reasonable questions. I am also sick of the how much horsepower do I have? Who cares about h.p. it don't mean crap if you can't drive or hook up. I also don't understand why people don't add their location it's not like we want to hunt you down and make sure you really own a banshee.

I'd say 15-41 at that distance but the paddle's eat top end speed so stock would probably be the setup but to be safe I would take extra sprockets and if you wind out to quick go up.

you need to give the bike 5 good solid kicks and hold the throttle wide open while doing it. that is your true compression reading.

everyone has an opinion on oil but I think it will be just fine

The bikes I've seen run with struts was to lower it and leave full throttle on pavement. But they spun worse on grass or dirt.

I tried the high temp paint on the inside and it did not help me. I have always been told that if there not blue your not getting full potential. I've benn running with the same jetting for a year and a half with no problems.