camatv

if synch is off needs to be done before jetting most times...

am i wrong but a jj+a is not 800 bucks for just the axle?? fireballs are 400-450ish i believe? jj+a are in the 550 to 600 range?

oem or tusk work well. those cheapo ones i have had fail pretty quick. cometic being aluminum base material should be reusable i would think.

if you stock o-rings do you have one of those cone thingy's/ the ones around the domes must be viton also.

i have a blue one with an already cut front white nose piece. i need a big tank for a yfz.

that exact jetting would be a great >starting point< for pretty much any stock cylinder build with open air filters and porting..

fox dosent make hard parts.. they make riding gear and casual wear for riders,, and clothing for noob posers who think its cause their girlfriend is "foxxy".. and if you ask what kinda bike they ride they look at you like your retarded.

i have ran tz roller with angled gears for years.. i would say its more the oppisiste. straights you can run ball bearing bearing. angles with more than 80 hp id say tz roller style. it makes a pretty bullet proof bottom end.

i should make the spring ride probably no drag bikes.

the motor thats in it now is just a spare parts running motor. bike is a blast to ride. going to try and switch the leftovers motor to e85 next weekend. ive decided to do a really special motor for this one. welded cylinder 4 mill, bearing basket, bearing kicker, full roller shifting and drum, ported for low to midrange so a t6 type pipe motor. all the pieces are here should take me about 6 months or so to build it as i work it all in. i will take pics of it as it goes.

i have a very very nice set of t5?

i have a set of power pro inframe hanging in the garage. the boyesen rad valve will work fine for you. you should be able to use the stock carbs if cash is that tight. i'd work towards pipes that can breathe more for the cylinder before carbs my opinion. you will also need a modified transmission. billet basket, id recomend anodized mattoon and an upgraded clutch id recomend the driveline high hp clutch or jeff at f.a.s.t. racing clutch. at a minimum. i would also recomend a roller drive bearing and a max load or 9 ball on the stator side. top case match and fill for the cylinder also. this is how i personally set up alny 4 mill bottom end. build it strong the first time you wont have to go back in there in a few months or even few years.

stock rz cover. i like to do things a bit differnt than the crowd. this is not the final motor i'm going to use. the actual motor is completely blasted off no shiny stuff at all. using cascade water pump cover and clutch insert. pd intakes and probably stock head. all rough alluminum. 4 mill stocker set up for tq tq and more tq

here are some pics. still a few things to modify and need to build the motor i have designed specifically for this bike but so far its a blast

threw together a scab motor and got it out this weekend. lots of fun to ride. just a yfz with great suspension and a real motor. so far i am preferring this to the outlaw. BECAUSE the plastic, seat combo just seem to be better for agressive riding. much more comfortable that way. havnet rode it a lot yet and still have some stuff to fix but overall i wouldnt hesitate to do another one.

motorcycle specific bottom end oil. 10-30 lucas mc oil.

i have made small spacers and welded them in the cores. the no packing and lack of core alignment was affecting power for sure. or just get replacement centers. you can also get some stainless steel ones if you look around. most need fitted to the silencer.

spell yea

one piece plastic is the way to go!

master is the best.

try it just on the yellow regulated wire.i think its yellow? as it comes out of the stator right after the plug in works thats how it picks up RPM as the one i had with no battery i used with no regulator i didnt have any lights. also if your going to try and use a converter to download with to USB they dont work for shit. i ended up having to find a really old laptop with the i/o port and it works just fine.

i dont think cutting the turns of just past the silencer will change performance. changing the silencer length deff will.

street bike motor if your going to asphault race.. i say yes.. street bike motor if your going to track ( sand dirt) and DONT want to spend a shit ton of money in building the ragged edge banshee based motor AND pay for all the upkeep. i say yes.. street bike motor in a banshee chassis for dunning or trails i say no (busa in a ds 650 chassis i say hell yea) will people give you shit and call you a gay fagg??? i guess so..