camatv

triple chrome would be sssaawwweeet!!! specially the ones on the hubs too!!

most riders would be just fine with this type of shock..

oh shit who showed up to tha partay

how are lectrons difficult to tune?????? on alky with pe-1 needles the center holes not filled with crap or jacked with ( some goof ball drilling them out!!) the right fuel flow setup either its a pump ( bla) or big ass bowls with small floats, overflow's added in the bowls ( or chariot) they are super easy to deal with. as with ANY carb getting the jetting at least really close is the bigget hurdle. how many posts are there about kehien's on alky having huge issues because of the wrong needle the wrong size dump drill out, and also same with mikuni's anyone rember trying to get a mikuni to not fuel starve ? and then oh shit if the temps change 20d everything is jacked up on mik's and kehiens. then yo have to spoend a few hours fiddling with jets, nd moving needles up and down jacking with teeny tiny screws in the slides, then oh shit what if you get some crap in the bowl uh oh there goes them kehiens overflowing all over the place again... lectrons if they are a tad rich takes 5 minutes to lean the needles dont have to remove the carbs dont even have to drain them if there is access.. if the temps change because of the way the fuel is meter'd the carbs can adjust somewhat pretty easily and not be as jacked up with the temp changes.. unless you are tightening the screws in the casting with a jack hammer you shouldnt have a problem with the alluminum.. i have ran gas on a bike then switched it to alky at the dunes without removing the carbs. using a dyna to back down the timing with a flip of a switch, then turn the pj's down for the gas.. i HAVE seen a lot of so called packard lectrons that were NOT packards. the oe style with pill jet and pj are kinda funky if they made a pj stle that the screw was not at risk of falling out that would be better. lectrons do have their own problems too. but as far as an easy setup to deal with tune and get to run right so you can ride. and not spend all damn day fiddling with to then just have a problem the next day if its hotter or colder.. they are the best. most times people select way to small of a lectron for their motor's.. with the HV style setup a much larger overall size carb needs to be used. if your bike likes 38's or 39's try 44 lectron HV. i see a lot of drag bikes with 34/36 lec's or even 32/36 thats way way way to small. the 40 straight hv or 40/42 hv works great on smaller cc cubs.. of course just my opinion

in a week or so i will be a sponsor.

in a week or so i will be a sponsor for those that are complaining so YEA!!! working on the banner now.

your starting to maybe grasp the concept i figured out.... i can take pictures of the bottom of both a windowed piston and a non windowed i have both and both were ran in cheeta's the windowless are about 6-7 years old and have about 9 million passes on them.. would be interesting to see?

yup its worn. IF the end is still relativley tight you can weld that up and grind it down BUt most times when the shaft is THAT worn the end pawl is pretty shot also get a new nylon spacer, NEW spring also you should be good to go. f you get one from fast have him do his shaft modification while your there. it will help a little bit.

the N down stock modded is a pretty neat transmission. it does cost more due to the work on the drum and the star. the stocker modded i do now is pretty easy to shift to N anyways. if you actually shift up into 2nd then tap the shifter down they will go into N also it is much easier to get into N with the motor off. i have gotten into that habit myself. i'm about to build a lil motor for the yfz conversion and i think i will run the n down in it and just do a long term test as well. right now my turn around time for stock modded is about 7- 10 days. thats including shipping back to you if your in the usa. i also offer a "rush it damnit!" service for a fee.

sorry i have been busy and didnt check the site. your right n2slow i dont have a full on atv business. i just do a few things for people online, have a good turnaround time, am not trying to fund a 4 cyl cougar with anyones money or pay for a dyno. i dont build full on motors for just anyone. i really got back into this trans modification from a lot of people i know having to deal with the bullshit of the duneable and the fact they shred shift forks and fill the cases with debris.. i'm sure that redlines trans works just fine. i mean its basically the same modification as far as i know only i wont do just one thing like a star or shift shaft for anyone. i dont feed anyone with a line of bullshit about anything. all the work i do, i do myself at my house ( which is wood not bricks oops) and lately have just put the very small amount i actually make from these back into better tooling to hopefully get the overrides i think this sport needs going. i am only another option to consider for this modification. send it to me send it to redline hell send it to any other site sponsor most times they just farm them out and who knows who will actually do the work.. i know i dont sponsor the site but unlike a LOT of other sponsors i do try to give insight on a lot of topics that people have troubles with their bikes. i have seen it all on these atv's, broken more junk then most anyone else, and had the pleasure of working with a few certain motor combo's and figuring out what works and what dosent.. if i have to sponsor the site i can but at this point over the course of a year i have made about 200.00 in profit from the transmission jobs i get off this site. the tooling to do these transmissions fast is not cheap. i dont sell any parts i dont have a full on atv business. tyler just needs to let me know if i am overstepping my bounds.. i'm positive redline is doing just fine without me hurting his business enough to really make a shit. in fact if he got backed up enough to need help with transmission work i'd sure offer my services to his customers. i know i have done some for a few other sponsors on this site already. it actually works really well. the customer send the motor to whoever, they contact me and then send me the trans and i do the work to it and send it back. it can make for a really fast turnaround on a full motor build.... just a thought...

i can do it all also. or just the trans super fast turn around times.

there is a big debate on what if anything the 'windows" actually do. this debate spans back to the late 70's and early 80's when piston port/ reed motor's were being worked out.. i personally have run windowless h2 pistons in my 535 for a very long time ( 6 years same internals of motor /stopped running it due to loosing compression and after tearing it apart i had actually WORN the nicko off the walls in places..) i was told by some that the small windows had to be there for proper lube of the upper bearing but i NEVER had any kind of crankshaft failure....... upper bearing was obviously getting plenty of lubrication. i was told that the lack of windows would cause the motor to have LESS tq and accelerate really badly. that is of course the total opposite of how it ran.. i have my own reasons why these things happen in the motors i have. if anyone else wants to "discuss it i can relate my theories. my personal ones involve big ass "boost" ports and the lower end compression strokes DOWN and lower end suction stroke UP. the pistons speed to me is so retarded fast inside a motor that is spinning up to 11,000 rpm that i FEEL the weight is the biggest difference in the perceived results. but the bad thing is unless some one makes a same weight piston one with windows and one without we may never know.. all i know is the things i read about the discussions by blair and his team way back in the days over ports in pistons and their effects.. the 120 and 125 rod options have larger small end pin sizes.. some really big pistons live better with the larger pin. i think i have a 125 rod 10 mill out there and its an 18mm pin. and if i rember right if you are running blaster style now you cannot just drop in a banshee dome profile piston with out a matching head rechamber. untill someone comes out with a true flat top banshee piston that is readily available you may not see big gains ( more than 5-8 hp) in just moving windows around... this is just my opinion i deff see an option to use these pistons in stock cylinder applications..

i dont have much experience with one of these BUT the one i got dialed in was a bitch to get any sort of low end response out of it. the fmf pipes i think may be affecting it some. but the one i worked with i was sure the insane high exhaust port and bad transfer timing had a lot to do with the boggy feel.. play with slow jet sizes a LOT and see which one it seems to like the best.

hmm

toked the tool thats nice.. give him some slack he translates most times from ugoslovinaenglisanishukranienese. ack hell tell wildcard to toss up his updated porting. we all start somewhere!

carnage pics!

you just want to look down and see black stuff on your pecker!

use NGK # 8020 cap better to get at a motorcycle store. is probably a 'special order" from o'reillys. my local dealer sells them for about 3.50 ish.

oh hell

damn dude you gave that silver one away. it had like what 5 trips on it spent more time being built and then disasembled and built back up then disassembled then ridden on!

thats the famous ass blaster seat!!

60 shipped

1000.00 chassis, and front a-arms/ stem?

perkatabphene!

its the black majic trannie... i pm ya back!