camatv

about 8 years ago i dyno'd my 350cc " dunner" with hot rods stock stroke crank, 65mm bore wiseco pistons. custom domes, t-5's 35pwk's v-force 2's and my porting it did 70hp and around 45-48ft lbs tq.. not sure why noone seems to be able to get much more out of a 4 mill setup. but yet everyone wants to build the 4 mills and give the lil 350cc no chance to make power..

dang i'm saving all muh cash for a trip maybe..

is it the silver one with just a rear shock and no fronts. i think it is a lager's

swingarm.

douode the yfzr is fucked rip it out and put a real mota in thur hence the name of this particular forum areazz

i think that port job is the reason my tuck overheated down by the river in the snow storm we had the other day while i was ordering Chinese at shitty beef in the windstorm next to the police station where all the weirdo's hang out. ya know what i mean?

170 shipped for set with new reeds. other set sold.

id love to hae one of those jig setups. they can do pretty much any stroke crank too. i like to do my own cranks when i can because i can take the extra time to get them pretty much perfect.

lil red, drag bike scooby the pile shitbox turd wagon JOS ( just old shit) barney the bullet yifzerr the slowaris green machine ( teryx) thats what i call mine

damn!! i got a scooter..

yes they are.. hell i have been thinking of completley milling them off and making them much bigger.. after the weld on the lil stockers i did there really was almost none of the original cylinder wall left in there anyways. sprinkles. my lil 350cc has stock sized intake windows in it. i did more with the so called boost ports. if you look at your v pics up there an then think about the cylinders shape and what you are really trying to do ( FEED the transfer NOT the bottom of the piston....) but no matter what i also agree the power is not in the intake so much as everywhere else.. im not trying to state anything bad about where these cap cyls are coming from its just really old school thought on how to do a high rev port.. and the ole D port was the bomb in the late 70's and 80's. it made super pipey stuff and bikes felt WOW bad ass because of the monster "hit" they had.. when lil ole constant power makers just motor'd right on by.

pics would be nice and what all it comes with. i kinda miss my old one.

well i missed that thread. guess i just dont go in the fo sale section enough. what a weird place to post that>?

wow i missed this whole thread... i just ran across them on ebay seems there are decent pics over there.. and price not so bad i'd love to see a listing with JUST the cylinders for around 200-250. it seems the insides and lower transfer area was cast larger and maybe have more meat for major porting now.. i would like to see a 68mm sleeve or 67.8mm bore sleeve and you can have your builder finish bore them to specific pistons.. or a NICE alluminum sleeve 68mm with GOOD plating there IS a market for these IF they are at least as strong as OEM> i myself also enjoy stock cylinders and after you get sleeve's and have them installed its going to be about 300-400 bucks for parts and work and thats IF you have a good set of cyls to start with.. the pistons that are sold with these LOOK like shit cast pistons. but they might not be to bad its so hard to tell without doing some real time onthe setup. it would be a nice alternate to have available to just cost effective stock replacement. i would personally say leave all the big stroke and weird combo's to the current drag cast setups available and just maybe do the 64mm and 67.8mm bore thick sleeve setups. it would be great to maybe buy 2-3 sets of these do some really way out there port work on them and try different port layouts without having a lot of down time. just flip cyls and run./ just a thought.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-YAMAHA-BANSHEE-350-STANDARD-STD-BORE-CYLINDER-PISTON-GASKET-KIT-1987-2006-/381087480746?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58ba957baa interesting...

these are nice. the jets are held in there really nicely. and you can line them up anyway you want.

on that note and about the KTm engine. i have a yfz450 chassis that i so far plan to put a ktm 300 exc 2stroke into. he ktm's design is amazing as far as pv setup and overall build of the 2 stroke goes. really wish i had the $$$ to have rebuilt the ktm 380 i had instead of parting it out.

yup slp are excellent. i put them on a powervalved 400 trex. it had the best roll on power i have ever ridden. yea it fell off hard on top but we didnt build the bike to race. funny thing was it ran right with or beat my wife's 350 at times. just a completely differnt animal kinda wish i would have worked with them more before selling thme. we put them on that bike just to see how it reacted. and never took them off. i'd love to build a 350cc stock motor ported to them.

swingarm is specific to the chassis. and a-arms, stem, subframe is also. it all needs sold together. should be a cr500 rear based shock no link. best chassis ever in my opinion.

well makes me not feel so bad about the full custom painted set with custom full seat i just got for 780 shipped...

looks stock stroke. i dont think those are hot rods rods so maybe some wsm or other crap rod. id cover shipping.

you said all stock.. a stock banshee will never corner like its on rails.. all kinds of people talk about setup but never about rider position or technique. and who knows what your rider skill is or what you have ever been taught or bad habbits learned. take a video of you rriding on the track and also from the outside and both inside corners or overall corner of you going through a corner. then if you can find it watch vid's of "pro's" on mx track and you might start to see patterns.

crank rebuilding is not nearly as hard as you think ( at least i didnt think it was) if you have a phase jig and press your already there. if you have or know someone with a lathe just make up the set spacers or you can also just go by hand. or you can even set up and make a set on a belt sander. i have done a lot of them by hand that way you have to get a feel for your press and after some practice you will know just how hard to push to get it to move so far. just rember there is a range of size not just this and thats it if you get way to critical you will spend days just setting the side to side play in the big end. spacers and stops help a lot but differnt width webbs, rods, and thrust washers will sometimes get you into trouble as well. getting the wobble out of them will be your biggest challenge unless you build an intricate purpose only jigg setup with assembly stops. etc. the phasing is super important on race motors as is true and straight webb sections. everything i have pretty much learned by just doing it and looking at information i could find on the net. there is not much out there as far as just straight up info on doing 2-3 cyl cranks. i also built a bunch of specialized jiggs for dissasembly and reassembly i personally charge 100.00 to disasemble and reassemble all the way down to inner bearings. your never going to get rich on crank work. that was one hell of a score on the crank jig if its one i bet it is!!

would need to be measured OR take pics of the sides where the pins are and a lot better than back inthe corner of the dark garage with a cell camera weak battery flash on it.. anything can be fixed. looks like piston stick or hydrolock. BUT unless you can rebuild it yourself and its a stock stroke crank its probably money ahead to just get a new one and sell this one for core $$ about 25.00 shipped id say.

my 485's last setup was overdrive straight cuts, 16/41 gear on 72-74 roll 14 staggerd extremes and the bike weighs 290lbs and i weigh 290 lbs.. it still is a rocket out of the hole. hell if i dig a deep rut in the sand its even better. there is no way in hell i can start in 2nd with that setup. the 535 is even better. its just what i had to do to keep from destroying 2nd all those years ago when i tried 4 different 2-5 transmissions. the biggest thing is to shift when the bike wants to not when you think you should usually i'm in 2nd within about 3 foot of the take off. 1st just takes the initial slam of the launch. of course this is what i fouind works well for my particular situation and after 3 seasons of destroyed transmissions what has held up so far.. after the trans started to hold then i was ripping chains all the time. but thats a whole notha story